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Yesterday I was changing my wheels to my summer set and I noticed the wheel could be spun with the e-brake engaged all the way up. It felt like it was partially engaged but not enough to keep me from moving it by hand with relative ease.
I did a brake job last year around this time and noticed that the driver side caliper was difficult to compress/ spin the piston back in but I managed to do it by hand with plyers so thought nothing of it. Havent checked the pad life, at least the outter pads look like normal wear. I did notice this winter that the brakes were sticking most mornings after disengaging it. Had to go in gear and give it some gas alittle to break them loose.
From what Ive read, its one of two things. The sliding pins are gummed up, or the caliper is seized or seizing. Since I just did the brakes a year ago, greased everything, im assuming the caliper is going bad.
Is my only option to replace the caliper? Can you rebuild the calipers with the ebrake mechanism on them or is it easier and cost efficient to replace them. If I replace them, i'll do both at the same time.
So far I havent noticed dragging pads and the e-brake engages on the right side fine so I still have a useable e-brake. This may be a job I hold off on for alittle bit since I have 1 working ebrake still.
I had/have a similar issue. You may need to twist the piston out more. But then you run into the issue of not being able to get the caliper over the pads. I end up with the problem but then I compressed the caliper by cracking the bleeder and doing it the traditional way. You may need to do some trial and error of playing around with this. I got my one side perfect and the other still needs some messing with.
Thats usually an error I make doing the brake job. I forget to crack the bleeder when compressing the piston. I know there can be issues at the brake booster end of things pushing against the seals and what not but Ive never come across and issue at the caliper. Maybe I inadvertently got air in the caliper by not cracking the bleeder.
I have the same issue with my car, driver side ebrake barely grabs at all. Since the ebrake mechanism is internal to the caliper the only option is to replace the entire caliper. Next time my brakes are due to be changed I am just going to replace both rear calipers.
I had/have a similar issue. You may need to twist the piston out more. But then you run into the issue of not being able to get the caliper over the pads. I end up with the problem but then I compressed the caliper by cracking the bleeder and doing it the traditional way. You may need to do some trial and error of playing around with this. I got my one side perfect and the other still needs some messing with.
so I felt like I couldnt wait till the weekend. went home early and started investigating. Recreated the same scenario. Ebrake on, wheel spins. wheel off and I can spin the rotor by hand. I take the sliding pins out and they are all gunked up. I think the grease I used was garbage. I went ahead and reused it any way after cleaning them as its the only suitable grease I had lol. after cleaning them and reinserting them with what id like to say was an excessive amount of this grease, I tried backing the caliper in and out. Again it was as tough as I remember it. Piston face is rusted to ****. Pad life looks normal to me. No heavy wear for 1 year, inside and outside pad life are pretty close. I went ahead and tried to move the piston out alittle bit as Royce said and im not sure which fix it was but my brakes feel stiffer, my e-brake which used to travel all the way up now only travels half way. Very nice.
im going to have to find some good grease and not some yellow light pep boys special and regrease all my brakes in the future.
Here are some photos. Also noticed I have paint on the slides near the threads. Could have sworn I took them out before painting! I used a copper wire brush and scrubbed all that crap off along with some good brake cleaner.
It was a combo of both. I usually grease my slider pins every 5k or 6 months. Ive dealt with these calipers for ever so I know all the tricks. Hopefully everything stays working for you!
It was a combo of both. I usually please my slider pins every 5k or 6 months. Ive dealt with these calipers for ever so I know all the tricks. Hopefully everything stays working for you!
PS I use the same grease lol
You please your slider pins every 5000 to 6000 months? sounds like we need a NSFW tag for the infrequent action
I've noticed my ebrake has been grabbing less and less as it gets warmer. I have new cables to go in which means new adjustment. I adjusted it about 4 months ago when one of the cables came completely out of the bracket.
Caliper pins were greased about a year ago. Should really get on that but I need solace to do it and another car to drive lol. I got too many things to do to my car
I just replaced both driver and passenger side cables with brand new units. Driver side still doesnt grab all that well. I think its the design of the parking brake itself.
This is a picture with the parking brake off. Everything looks good.
Now this is with it engaged 3 to 4 clicks. As you can see it pulls the passenger side forward far more than the driver. I have tried this with a differnt parking brake I also have and it does the same.
03-30-2017, 11:57 AM
E-brake driver side not grabbing so well
