user 72239

iTrader: (4)

So I've been driving around on bad bushings for who knows how long, probably as long as I've owned the car its had bad clunking. Is it really worth it to replace the CABs since they are such junk on this car anyway? I don't really want to spend 260 bucks on new arms if in 20-30k miles they are going to be bad again anyway. I have no noticeable driving problems other than clunking at low speed and stop/go.

Any thoughts?

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

get the spherical control arms from from powell. NIGHT AND DAY difference. every single one of his items that I add to my car make it that much more fun to drive.

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

Drop the control arm out, have someone with a hydraulic press put them in. Its not hard

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Right, Im not worried about that but powells bushings are about the same as a whole new arm and I dont have to take the old arms to a press

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

Yes, but you said you were worried about them going bad in another 20-30k miles. Powell's wont do this. If you have to take the arm out to replace it anyway, why not just upgrade, and not have to worry about it again?

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

I still need to get Powell's CAB's....

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

OMG so worth it

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

199 a pair of cabs from me that last for ever, is a long way from 260 for arms....but then shipping, its true. But I am not sure where you can get arms that cheap shipped that are good quality. The cheap chiwanese arms bend unfortunately, I wont buy them any more. CED have genuine arms but not 130 each for sure, shipped. The material is forged alloy like the stock ones, but not as good material. Shame really. Other than cabs the stock alloy arms and ball joints stand up real well.

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

Once I get some extra funds, I'm going back to suspension work.... (Powell CAB's & Sway Bar)

No more power mods for this guy. Cams, valve springs, and timing wore me out

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

oh really? Well, I think I will have to do that then. I just didnt want to have them go out like the stockers do.

northvibe

iTrader: (1)

are these the new ones that will last though winters?

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

The cabs were fine through the winters, it was the delrin other bushings for control arms that had the issues iirc. could be wrong though, trying to remember what John said to me in his garage.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

^^ two sets of control arm bushings. The trailing ones fail the soonest, the all weather sphericals we make cant be beat, only come backs are people who rip the rubber boot on install, or me ripping them when building them ( happened once lol)

The leading ones, we had issues with calcium chloride from road salt combining with Delrin and the pin and making a big seized mess. We have used this setup in racing for 30-40 years in all sorts of cars, and never dreamed of road salt making a big mess of it all. So we fixed it.

All existing customers were retrofitted with new stainless pins, and we changed the bushing insert material from Delrin to another composite material and have had nothing but happy campers ever since.

We do a complete spherical arm, I run them, Steddy runs them. its a fantastic part but so is the price: (900.00 for arms complete). Hard to beat trailing at 199 and stick it in there. 245 for the leading, same deal. Arms last for ever unless you crash them into curbs

Do the trailing ones, install and forget it will still be good when you sell the car. Mine are now three years old, still perfect, and I am never selling my car. lol


OH and PS I had a question today: "Will we take old arms as cores?"

Um NO.

cant/wont sell unseen used arms for any price lol

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

OP Johns parts are worth every penny. The saying you get what you pay for? for a great price you get a great part. And for what he charges after his own time, cost to make, the testing and research, paying kween to go to the shipping, hes really not making a huge profit. Once installed every one of his parts you WILL notice a difference.

Just dont try and tell him how superior MGs are at the local watering hole...

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

What's the best method for replacing the leading bushings? Pics would be cool

northvibe

iTrader: (1)

I have the CAB's and derlin before they went "public" so the sets I have I think were v.01 and not really good in the winters. Hence why I asked....

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

email me I will send you the how to, and have B.Rad put it up on the web site john@powellraceparts.com

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Logan I have sent an email to you with pictures ; Ihad to take a few more tonite . The pictures may not be brilliant but the measurements are. I will try and perfect it over the next few days

But all this is running into my serious drinking time now. So large file is on its way to you, over and out on this for the time being lol

BLue NoTe

iTrader: (4)

I got em, thanks John

Joemaster70

iTrader: (6)

having bad CAB will make ur tires wear uneven. i drove on 1 bad CAB and my brand new tires are f'd up. picked up spherical contol arm bushings from ottp took out the old ones when i did the motor swap it's been extremely better in handling and traction.

i removed and pressed them in with a table vice. the Stock bushings have a aluminum lip. I got mine out the most ghetto way possible. We first cut out the bushing than took a air compressor tool with a chizzel on the end to get the actual aluminum lip and body out of the Control arm. DO NOT BEND control arm and make sure u press it in straight and even

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

^^^ lol the man is right!!. The aftermarket arms out there bend just looking at them ....