Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

Should be 11589009

I posted this info in the how to, cause I had a little trouble with a bolt not wanting to tighten back up after replacing my CABs.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Here is the bolt.

Cradle Bolt 11589009

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

How old of a car to replace the arms on?

Those of you have had bad bushings, did your steering wheel vibrate under braking?

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

Maybe, but you could definitely feel if your CABs are shot. The car rocks back and forth a lot.
Stock voided bushings are no good.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Im confused, thats an engine cradle to frame bolt. I thought the bolts that cause the issues are the ones that the front bushing is bolted to the subframe with?

SylverSS/SC

iTrader: (3)

Clicky!

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

Nah, the front bushing is easy to get to. Short 15mm. This is the bolt that goes through the bottom of the trailing CAB to bolt the read of the arm to the frame.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

as a matter of fact Dave P said that was happening and its gone. He thought his rotors might be bad but they were newish. Its the tire squirming into toe out/in under braking

The malibu solid insert doesnt fit properly in an alloy arm and its a weak pos anyway.

trailing control arm bolt/cradle bolt/


malibu cab in an 06 ss alloy arm . meh.

Dave082.4

Yes, John replaced my (separated and torn) CAB's yesterday, and that eliminated my front brake vibration.

My car had been suffering from pulsating brakes for months now (it was next on my list of things to address), and I thought it was either hot spots on the rotors, or warped rotors from improper wheel nut torque when my snow tires were changed over.

Needless to say, I saved some money on not replacing rotors unnecessarily (which is a good thing!).

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

i dont think anything beat the urethane cabs the previous owner put in my car.



they are long gone now, have had stock bushing in the car for the last 4 years. just got my powell cabs in the mail monday, just need some time to put them in

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

^^^^lol@sharkey good picture. The arm moves in and out as it travels up and down at the trailing position and poly wont work. In fact poly is a pretty poor material for suspension bushings, although conventional wisdom regards that as an upgrade. The SAAB community love buying that poly stuff for their car for suspension and cradle mounts ( its cheep). There are better composite materials but they are more expensive for sure.
At the end of the day our replacement trailing cab is a way better part. I am currently negotiating with the vendor a big buy as it is possible this joint could go out of production. ugh.

One thing to note: when servicing your arms or struts, the new CAB WILL NOT allow the same amount of " over travel"the stock CAB permits, so you MUST release the leading cab some of the way on its bolts in order to change struts, once you upgrade. No big deal.

also the book calls for 75 ft lbs + 180 degrees for the cradle bolt. Use 145 ft lbs but please torque it. Also the rear sway bar we sell, very important to torque to 50 ft lbs. As the rear bar fastener nut plates are mechanical lock nuts, its possible to tighten them by hand and figure you are good. Without a torque wrench you wont be correct. Check it out.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

75ft lbs plus 180degrees is the same as 145ft lbs correct? I doubt man ppl have a torque wrench that reads accuratly at 145ft lbs, my torque wrench tops out at 150ft lbs and I'm sure its like most things the accuracy craps out near the low end and high end of the range.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Yeah no kidding! I hand torqued mine and it felt pretty damn tight but then I got the torque wrench and had to give them another ~3/4 turn to get them to 85 ft lbs!

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

If you don't get the sway bar torqued right it'll make noise but you won't - probably won't - spot it by eye until you see rust streaks. By then you'll need new hardware. Saves money getting it right the first time.

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the bolt P/N, i will make sure i get these (just in case) when i do my CABS.

advise

iTrader: (3)

We wont need um lol

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

I just purchased a new craftsman clicker on sale for 60 dollars at sears, reads to 200. no problem. I save the electronic snap on angle torque craftsman for other jobs....that said, the snap on has such a long lever arm it makes 145 easier. thats a lot of torque... and torque wrenches from a reputable manufacturer should read accurately through the range detailed afaik.

for the folks who think gudentite is enough, not always by a long shot

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I noticed a huge difference once I installed mine. Removing was a piece of cake, as mine weren't seized.

however re-installing them? That was a whole different story lol

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Was that made in the US John? I make it a point to only buy tools that are made in America, but it's getting increasingly harder to find them. I know Sears has almost entirely switched to Chinese made tools for their Craftsman brand. Regretful decision...

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Def would be worth buying a better range torque wrench before I buy these from you. I was just thinking from an instrument management stand point, the engineer side of me coming out once 90% of a range is reached I want to move to the next

Klien tools for the most part are still made state side. Some Craftsman are made here still.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Yup. Here's a great source for finding out where to spend your money so it doesn't go into building Chinese aircraft carriers: Still Made in USA.com - American-Made Tools

I'm more American than most when it comes to this stuff. And to think I'm not even a US citizen ;-)

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

So basically we shouldn't use anything because it's not made in China?

That's a pretty big joke. Almost everything you use on a daily basis is made elsewhere. Support companies that make quality products, that way in the future you can get quality products from them. Otherwise, you will get some of the **** poor stuff that even "hard" working American's made.

Our economy is not going to get any better because of that buying tactic. When now are in a global economy.

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

You're certainly entitled to your opinion. I'm not saying buy American crap quality when there are better products available overseas.

The reality is that most people will buy cheap Chinese products over more expensive quality US products. Those are typically also the people that yell the loudest that their jobs are shipped overseas.

Me, I'm willing to pay even a considerable premium for products that are still made in the US. I am aware there is a global economy. There has been for some decades. But the reality is that people are affected more by their local economy, thus the need to support that local economy.

It's true that many products are ONLY made in certain geographies, most notably China. There's little choice if you want to buy LED light bulbs to name an example. I'm not ignoring that fact, just trying to make people aware that they have a choice to make.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

There is a flaw in your logic in that if American products aren't selling because people are buying cheaper products from places like China, then production at those American factories gets scaled back and people start losing a lot of money and even their jobs. It's a ripple effect from there, as it also starts hurting the local businesses, among others, where those workers used to spend their money.

I have first hand experience with this.

Bingo.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

well I am happy to say that YYZ springs are made in USA!! The best. Inspired by Wangspeed. Our sway bars are made in Canaduh from German sourced Chrome Moly purchased from a USA distributor. Inspired by Time Attack but a pure Powell idea.
Same for rotated mounts made in Canada. Inserts from....USA/Mexico/India...what month is it? China prolly next.
Our trap door pans made in Canada from OEM pans made in Israel, China or Chechoslovakia. I never know.
Our tow hooks are made in Canada of canadian steel with fasteners out of Indianapolis.
Our PCV upgrade setup was developed by me with engineering input from the USA, assembled in Canada. I suspect our Russell AN fittings are made in China. Our Mann Hummell seperators are.
OUr harness bars and UCR made in Canada, same thing applies for the Chrome Moly as above the DOM tube s canadian made.

etc. I am with Colordude but agree with USMC, and will say its very hard to match some prices of off shore stuff. 60% of the Camaro is made from parts sourced in China, the worlds largest car market.
and to all of you that buy our parts instead of the copies from other vendors here

thank you.