Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.

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Old 09-13-2013, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
ya think?

texas? bunch of pansy's get ice and the interstate closes down for 100 car wrecks coz

driver mod.


lol
end rant
Lol true story!
Old 09-13-2013, 08:04 AM
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If anyone needs an extra subframe bolt I can send them one for cost of shipping, just PM me.

I went out to the local pick&pull yard near me before my cab install and picked up a **** ton just in case, I may have went a lil overboard but at 50 cents a bolt I couldn't stop myself!
Old 09-13-2013, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
If you want new bolts you can get them with your order, they are about 12.00 each. But read carefully what I have posted. Your best bet, is to jack the car up, and using a 21 mm socket and a Johnson bar or a 1/2 drive ratchet with a good 24 inch or greater arm. see if the cradle bolt #1 breaks loose easily and #2 immediately drops as you unwind it. If #1 is no, its tough as hell and #2 it does NOT drop as you unwind it, then do this.

On a saturday, get ready and drop cradle. make sure you have a sawzall. cut the bolt out as Noor did. Then insert the new arms and bolts if you purchased from me with lots of anti seize and you will be good.

you will need 15, 16 19 and 21 mm sockets for this job. an angle torque wrench or a black sharpie. So where 25 degrees is called for in the torque specs mark the nut the arm and the socket and after torqueing to the correct spec, tighten the nut ONE FLAT of the hex in travel= 25 degrees
I'm not quite understanding this. One flat of the hex head would be 60 degrees of rotation. Do you mean to say that it should be tightened from the flat to the first point? That would be 30 degrees, which is a whole lot closer to the 25 degrees you are looking for.
Old 09-13-2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by colodude18
I've had my tcabs sittin in my garage for at least 5 weeks now and the more I read about this the more I think I should have this done somewhere, lol
Told you I'd help you
Old 09-13-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by leemanfor
Told you I'd help you
Thanks Kevin. Did you guys get the old cabs out yourself or bring the control arms to a shop?

PS my new cabs have been living in the freezer for 2 weeks now lol
Old 09-13-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by colodude18
Thanks Kevin. Did you guys get the old cabs out yourself or bring the control arms to a shop?

PS my new cabs have been living in the freezer for 2 weeks now lol
trying the at home cryo treatment?
Old 09-13-2013, 02:06 PM
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no he wants them to slide in like butta
Old 09-13-2013, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JapEatr
no he wants them to slide in like butta
overnight is enough. I was just giving him a hardtime since I'll probably end up helping him change them out as long as his place isn't flooded
Old 09-13-2013, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by colodude18
Thanks Kevin. Did you guys get the old cabs out yourself or bring the control arms to a shop?

PS my new cabs have been living in the freezer for 2 weeks now lol
Took em to Napa, they put them in for 30 bucks total IIRC.

took like 2 hours but they were super busy that day.
Old 09-13-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by leemanfor
Took em to Napa, they put them in for 30 bucks total IIRC.

took like 2 hours but they were super busy that day.
Best course of action. Machine shops ftw and they charge next to nothing.
Old 09-13-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by toolman
I'm not quite understanding this. One flat of the hex head would be 60 degrees of rotation. Do you mean to say that it should be tightened from the flat to the first point? That would be 30 degrees, which is a whole lot closer to the 25 degrees you are looking for.
Yup. Five degrees between friends? Ain't nut in
Old 09-13-2013, 04:38 PM
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Lolz
Old 09-13-2013, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
overnight is enough. I was just giving him a hardtime since I'll probably end up helping him change them out as long as his place isn't flooded
Yeah I know. I put them in the freezer on Friday night to install them on Saturday but then I broke my radiator so I just left them in there ever since

And no, no flooding here fortunately. Working on finishing up my radiator install and intake this weekend. Maybe next Saturday?
Old 09-13-2013, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by colodude18
Yeah I know. I put them in the freezer on Friday night to install them on Saturday but then I broke my radiator so I just left them in there ever since

And no, no flooding here fortunately. Working on finishing up my radiator install and intake this weekend. Maybe next Saturday?
Just shoot me a text
Old 09-16-2013, 09:04 AM
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Mine were in the freezer for about 2 hours and went in like butter lol
Old 09-18-2013, 07:21 AM
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man this sounds like a tedious job.....wth!? lol. what is easier? these or a turbo swap? lol. im starting to think im needing some of these from powell sigh, more money more money, i think im due for another deployment soon haha.
Old 09-18-2013, 08:24 AM
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^^^ stop your whining lol thats a $ 25,000 signature you got...
Old 09-18-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
^^^ stop your whining lol thats a $ 25,000 signature you got...
no way :P lol. but it is an expensive one >___< so worth it though
Old 09-27-2013, 07:28 PM
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so ive read thru this thread and all im gathering from it,is that if i get my CABs out,putting the powell ones in the freezer for a little while,then they will slide right in? or else if i dont put em in the freezer,i could take them some where to have them pressed in?

and take the cradle off. 2 bolts each side,and it makes the install much easier?

both my CAB's are shot and in the process of getting some from Mr. Powell.
Old 09-27-2013, 08:06 PM
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you don't need to take the cradle out for control arms...... one cradle bolt on each side, 2 15mm bolts on the leading cab and the ball joint is all you need to do.

take them somewhere and have them pressed in.
Old 09-27-2013, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
you don't need to take the cradle out for control arms...... one cradle bolt on each side, 2 15mm bolts on the leading cab and the ball joint is all you need to do.

take them somewhere and have them pressed in.
please read the thread. |If the insert sleeve is rusted solid the bolt, then you need to drop the cradle to stop the bolt from ripping out the captive nut as the bolt cant drop.
Old 09-27-2013, 08:52 PM
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Ok. I've never done CABs befor. It sounds like its a hit or miss situation if its a pain in the ass.

I would assume that its fairly easy to replace the trans mounts also? I've read somewhere that you have to put a jack under the motor for support. Pop the old ones off and put the new ones in.
Old 09-27-2013, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
please read the thread. |If the insert sleeve is rusted solid the bolt, then you need to drop the cradle to stop the bolt from ripping out the captive nut as the bolt cant drop.
if its not rusted solid then you don't have to. at work don't have time to read through the entire thread.

Originally Posted by 09TcSedan
Ok. I've never done CABs befor. It sounds like its a hit or miss situation if its a pain in the ass.

I would assume that its fairly easy to replace the trans mounts also? I've read somewhere that you have to put a jack under the motor for support. Pop the old ones off and put the new ones in.
pretty much and loosen the upper mount a bit to allow the rotation.

Last edited by Omiotek; 09-27-2013 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 09-27-2013, 09:02 PM
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^^^emails sent
Old 09-27-2013, 09:10 PM
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no email received if that was to me.


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