Air Filter Testing
#26
People on here will only tell you when they think it should be changed. I follow GM specs.
It's an old test, but a good one, but the premise of the test isnt for performance. It's for filtration capacity and essential the "time to restriction". Pointing out that the OEM filter not only provided the best filtration but the longest usable lifespan. Alot of this has to do with the material being used, but given the fact that its a much older test, it doesnt take into account new filtration styles such as the AEM dry flow filters which were in fact designed by K&N which really are probably far superior to any aftermarket filter that was available at the time that test was done.
I've tried alot of filters out (aem included), I've noticed no difference from any of them really.
#37
So you guys are saying the GMPP filter will work on the K&N LNF intake?
Would it be better to just run the drycharger cover?
k&n drycharger - Google Search
Would it be better to just run the drycharger cover?
k&n drycharger - Google Search
It will fit the K&N intake for the LSJ & the stock LSJ airbox with some modification.
#38
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
The fact is, the stock air box on the LNF and on the LSJ REDLINE (not Cobalt) are able to flow a bunch of air, more than enough for most peoples mod requirements. The Cobalt LSJ is a little sucky, but the stock air tube with a stock air box ( with the bottom removed ) supported 400 hp on the Time Attack car.
And its clear in my testing that the K&N gets dirty fast, and no-one on here with a K&N cleans their filters as often as we did in racing. ( every 2-4 hours running time) . And the testing information supports that if K&N gets dirty ( and it does, fast) it dont flow much at all.
Therefore, in the clear light of day, hard to justify a K&N practically speaking. AND the koolaid drinkers will chime in and say " BUT IHAVE 500 + WHP I GOTTA HAVE A k&N !!"
OKay. So now after three weeks or so your filter is dirty and not flowing as much as a stock OEM air element. Where is the 500+WHP now?
wondering.
meh lol
And its clear in my testing that the K&N gets dirty fast, and no-one on here with a K&N cleans their filters as often as we did in racing. ( every 2-4 hours running time) . And the testing information supports that if K&N gets dirty ( and it does, fast) it dont flow much at all.
Therefore, in the clear light of day, hard to justify a K&N practically speaking. AND the koolaid drinkers will chime in and say " BUT IHAVE 500 + WHP I GOTTA HAVE A k&N !!"
OKay. So now after three weeks or so your filter is dirty and not flowing as much as a stock OEM air element. Where is the 500+WHP now?
wondering.
meh lol
#40
The fact is, the stock air box on the LNF and on the LSJ REDLINE (not Cobalt) are able to flow a bunch of air, more than enough for most peoples mod requirements. The Cobalt LSJ is a little sucky, but the stock air tube with a stock air box ( with the bottom removed ) supported 400 hp on the Time Attack car.
And its clear in my testing that the K&N gets dirty fast, and no-one on here with a K&N cleans their filters as often as we did in racing. ( every 2-4 hours running time) . And the testing information supports that if K&N gets dirty ( and it does, fast) it dont flow much at all.
Therefore, in the clear light of day, hard to justify a K&N practically speaking. AND the koolaid drinkers will chime in and say " BUT IHAVE 500 + WHP I GOTTA HAVE A k&N !!"
OKay. So now after three weeks or so your filter is dirty and not flowing as much as a stock OEM air element. Where is the 500+WHP now?
wondering.
meh lol
And its clear in my testing that the K&N gets dirty fast, and no-one on here with a K&N cleans their filters as often as we did in racing. ( every 2-4 hours running time) . And the testing information supports that if K&N gets dirty ( and it does, fast) it dont flow much at all.
Therefore, in the clear light of day, hard to justify a K&N practically speaking. AND the koolaid drinkers will chime in and say " BUT IHAVE 500 + WHP I GOTTA HAVE A k&N !!"
OKay. So now after three weeks or so your filter is dirty and not flowing as much as a stock OEM air element. Where is the 500+WHP now?
wondering.
meh lol
My box:
Pretty much the same as running with no bottom lid, but will still support the stock filter. Win win.
#45
Senior Member
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If I ever do a mild bolt-on setup for AutoX I'll just be running the ZZP intake tube. Quite honestly you can get all the power you need in a k04 LNF with just a DP and tune, which is what I have now. Once it gets nicer out I'll be doing some logs to compare how my 60-100 times and IAT temps look compared to when I had the TR8 I/C and K&N dialed in on the car
#46
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
I recently sold my K&N intake and am running my OEM intake/filter again. I changed my tune back to stock MAF tables as I had corrected my values for the K&N, and other than the ridiculous BPV/turbo noises being gone, the performance feels exactly the same.
If I ever do a mild bolt-on setup for AutoX I'll just be running the ZZP intake tube. Quite honestly you can get all the power you need in a k04 LNF with just a DP and tune, which is what I have now. Once it gets nicer out I'll be doing some logs to compare how my 60-100 times and IAT temps look compared to when I had the TR8 I/C and K&N dialed in on the car
If I ever do a mild bolt-on setup for AutoX I'll just be running the ZZP intake tube. Quite honestly you can get all the power you need in a k04 LNF with just a DP and tune, which is what I have now. Once it gets nicer out I'll be doing some logs to compare how my 60-100 times and IAT temps look compared to when I had the TR8 I/C and K&N dialed in on the car
Def interested in the log differences between stock ic and tr ic
#50
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
I'm about to the same conclusion, swap out for shows. Def would like to see actual data on the other filters than old out dated ones, but I'm not spending the cash to have them tested. Might see what I kind of a test I can design working at a mining R&D company does have its perks from time to time