Canned e85 tune lean? High Temps on LE5/K04
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Canned e85 tune lean? High Temps on LE5/K04
I have been through my entire cooling system and even had the pros spend a week with it and we can't seem to figure why I am running high Coolant Temps. He mentioned running lean with the added Turbo, so I look at the tune (I am a novice at tuning, still trying to learn the basics of hptuners), and I noticed that my afr is set to 13.1. Shouldn't I be closer to the 10-11 range? My fans are set to start at 100% at 194°, it has a new water pump, thermostat, Coolant temp sensor, and zzp oversized radiator. It's not doing anything to suggest a bad head gasket, other than Overheating. Is the tune the problem? I'm slowly crossing mechanical off the list.
#4
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Thread Starter
I have a wideband installed, I just haven't had time to wire it up yet. Temps get up to around 235, then come down. It's like roller coaster. If I'm around 70mph it won't go over 212
#6
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Can you suggest a power source for the gauges? I tried the cig outlets and the tap a fuse thing, cig outlets are always on and I can't get the fuse tap to give me anything
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Tried that. My add a fuse must be junk because it doesn't work in any slot in any direction with any fuse. My wideband instructions say there should be 2 black and 2 red wires that both need to be connected to grounds and a 12v power source. I only have 1 of each. It's an aem e85 analog wideband
#9
your door locks are constant power. so I'd tap there if you need a constant
If you need a switched power, tap your Ilumination.
Remember, with the add-a-fuse you need 2x fuses in them for it to function.
If you need a switched power, tap your Ilumination.
Remember, with the add-a-fuse you need 2x fuses in them for it to function.
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
I'll try the door locks. I had the boost gauge connected to the cig outlet before, but didn't have the vacuum hose connected, now it's all rigged up and the same connection won't work. I'll probably just try to wire the wideband into the gauge cluster.
#12
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Thread Starter
There isn't a bleeder valve on these cars. There is a specific refill procedure to limit air in the system. I took temp readings of my downpipe, which is about 4 inches from my heater hoses and crossover tube and I think that 600 degrees could be too much. Going to try some heat shielding on the turbo, Heater hoses and crossover. Lnf hoses have heat shielding from the factory.
#13
Heat shielding is not going to cause the car to overheat. You need to properly bleed the cooling system. I usually just drive around with the cap loose so the air can escape and keep it topped off. How did you run water lines for the turbo? I bet thats causing you some issues.
#14
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Heat shielding is not going to cause the car to overheat. You need to properly bleed the cooling system. I usually just drive around with the cap loose so the air can escape and keep it topped off. How did you run water lines for the turbo? I bet thats causing you some issues.
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Are you sure the fan is coming on at 195? I had a turbo LE5 with a ZZP tune that the fan wasn't lowered enough and because of the turbo baking the water pipes back there the car would get very hot very fast, until I lowered the fan turn-on point.
I'd suggest replacing the t-stat again with a good OEM one and drilling a small hole in it to bleed. I've always done that and i've never had one ecotec give me hassles bleeding the cooling system.
I'd suggest replacing the t-stat again with a good OEM one and drilling a small hole in it to bleed. I've always done that and i've never had one ecotec give me hassles bleeding the cooling system.
#16
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Thread Starter
Are you sure the fan is coming on at 195? I had a turbo LE5 with a ZZP tune that the fan wasn't lowered enough and because of the turbo baking the water pipes back there the car would get very hot very fast, until I lowered the fan turn-on point.
I'd suggest replacing the t-stat again with a good OEM one and drilling a small hole in it to bleed. I've always done that and i've never had one ecotec give me hassles bleeding the cooling system.
I'd suggest replacing the t-stat again with a good OEM one and drilling a small hole in it to bleed. I've always done that and i've never had one ecotec give me hassles bleeding the cooling system.
Another question, which wire for the dimmer leads to the cluster? I keep seeing grey but I only have green and purple.
#17
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#19
Member
All lines have been checked 47 thousand times. Radiator shop says it's not an airlock. I have drained and refilled this by the procedure in the Haynes manual at least 6 times, I would think one of those I could have had right. One heater hose is literally an inch from the downpipe. I would think that has the potential to raise the water temp. Ever leave a hose out in the sun?
If so, replace the resistor. its that little metal part that has holes and has a spring in the center... its a resistor. Replaced that and I haven't had one issue since. The fan turns on every time now. Stupid a$$ design on Chevy's part for sure.
The messed up part about mine was I bought a whole brand new shroud and everything, it worked for like 2 months and then started having over heating issues. Replaced thermostat, the whole nine yards, temp sens. all that. And here it was that little metal resistor on the fan shroud on the corner. Replaced it and it works.
Last edited by Cobalt_noob; 02-18-2017 at 11:41 PM. Reason: add some more info
#20
New Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I replaced that too. It was bad but I didn't solve my problem. ZZP has you tee the Coolant return for the turbo into the return that comes out of the top of the valve cover. It creates an airlock. I took that tee out and rant the Turbo line straight to the overflow tank. Runs perfect now. I might hit 201 at high rpms but that's it. ZZP said that wouldn't make a difference but it was all the difference.
#21
Member
Yeah, I replaced that too. It was bad but I didn't solve my problem. ZZP has you tee the Coolant return for the turbo into the return that comes out of the top of the valve cover. It creates an airlock. I took that tee out and rant the Turbo line straight to the overflow tank. Runs perfect now. I might hit 201 at high rpms but that's it. ZZP said that wouldn't make a difference but it was all the difference.
#22
New Member
Thread Starter
The intercooler is air to air for the intake temperature, but the Turbo itself is cooled by the engine cooling system. There is a line going from the thermostat housing to the Turbo then another return line, now going to the overflow tank. I'm not sure where the coolant return for the lnf is but the way it was set up didn't work.
#23
Member
Hey, whatever works! The SC is liquid to air cooled for intake temps (for obvious reasons) and for the heat exchanger pump they wanted me to tap in to some fuse.... I'm trying to remember its been a while.... but whatever, I tried it numerous times and the pump would just not kick on correctly. I switched over to other sources I knew were constant, no effect.. finally I found that the fuel pump was the perfect choice
So whatever works man. Glad you got it hashed out... hey and how are you liking HP Tuners? Have you found a lot of information on how to tune with it out there?? Thinkin about taking the plunge myself
So whatever works man. Glad you got it hashed out... hey and how are you liking HP Tuners? Have you found a lot of information on how to tune with it out there?? Thinkin about taking the plunge myself
#24
New Member
Thread Starter
I really like hptuners, don't really understand a lot of it yet, but I'm slowly learning. I have 3 books on tuning but they don't really give me what I'm looking for. I just bought the tuning schools beginner program so hopefully I can pick this up.
#25
Member
well if you start gettin the hang of it you should start your own thread on how to tune the boosted LE5's.