wheel adapters
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-25-06
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wheel adapters
Anyone care to make a sticky/share information for wheel adapters.
Great site for adapters/spacers
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
for example
5x110 to 5x100
5x110 to 5x114.3
thickness of adapter needed
size of wheel
extended studs if needed
thickness to clear brembos
Ill go first
Looking at 18x8.5 Varrstoen in 5x100
offset:38
bore:56.1
tires:225/40/18
What thickness should the adapter be to clear the brembos, and for it to be nice and flush front and rear?
Great site for adapters/spacers
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
for example
5x110 to 5x100
5x110 to 5x114.3
thickness of adapter needed
size of wheel
extended studs if needed
thickness to clear brembos
Ill go first
Looking at 18x8.5 Varrstoen in 5x100
offset:38
bore:56.1
tires:225/40/18
What thickness should the adapter be to clear the brembos, and for it to be nice and flush front and rear?
Last edited by Shortbus; 03-06-2013 at 08:39 PM.
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
which varrstoen wheels u looking at? i could imagine the 8.5 sitting flush at around +30 or so
the spoke shape determines your clearance of the massive brembos
the +38 offset is a bit low for a adapter so the redrill option said in the other thread will be your best bet and u can add 5mm spacers to put u at +33 or u need a 8-10mm spacer u will need longer studs that will put ya at +30 or +28
the spoke shape determines your clearance of the massive brembos
the +38 offset is a bit low for a adapter so the redrill option said in the other thread will be your best bet and u can add 5mm spacers to put u at +33 or u need a 8-10mm spacer u will need longer studs that will put ya at +30 or +28
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-25-06
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
which varrstoen wheels u looking at? i could imagine the 8.5 sitting flush at around +30 or so
the spoke shape determines your clearance of the massive brembos
the +38 offset is a bit low for a adapter so the redrill option said in the other thread will be your best bet and u can add 5mm spacers to put u at +33 or u need a 8-10mm spacer u will need longer studs that will put ya at +30 or +28
the spoke shape determines your clearance of the massive brembos
the +38 offset is a bit low for a adapter so the redrill option said in the other thread will be your best bet and u can add 5mm spacers to put u at +33 or u need a 8-10mm spacer u will need longer studs that will put ya at +30 or +28
18x8.5
+30 offset
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-25-06
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#9
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: 11-08-11
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know this is an older thread but I have a question. I tried looking on here and Google it but can't find much for base model information on what I need. Anyways, here's my question:
I have 4x100 hubs. I want adapters in 4x100-4x100 that are about an inch thick. Will I need to run extended studs or will the stock studs be long enough for the nuts from the adapters to tighten it on with? If I have to I will order some 12x1.5" studs from Jegs and put those in but just curious to see if it can be done.
Edit: I also have 17x7" wheels and lowered enough where I will not rub with adapters, in case anyone was wondering.
I have 4x100 hubs. I want adapters in 4x100-4x100 that are about an inch thick. Will I need to run extended studs or will the stock studs be long enough for the nuts from the adapters to tighten it on with? If I have to I will order some 12x1.5" studs from Jegs and put those in but just curious to see if it can be done.
Edit: I also have 17x7" wheels and lowered enough where I will not rub with adapters, in case anyone was wondering.
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
I know this is an older thread but I have a question. I tried looking on here and Google it but can't find much for base model information on what I need. Anyways, here's my question:
I have 4x100 hubs. I want adapters in 4x100-4x100 that are about an inch thick. Will I need to run extended studs or will the stock studs be long enough for the nuts from the adapters to tighten it on with? If I have to I will order some 12x1.5" studs from Jegs and put those in but just curious to see if it can be done.
Edit: I also have 17x7" wheels and lowered enough where I will not rub with adapters, in case anyone was wondering.
I have 4x100 hubs. I want adapters in 4x100-4x100 that are about an inch thick. Will I need to run extended studs or will the stock studs be long enough for the nuts from the adapters to tighten it on with? If I have to I will order some 12x1.5" studs from Jegs and put those in but just curious to see if it can be done.
Edit: I also have 17x7" wheels and lowered enough where I will not rub with adapters, in case anyone was wondering.
u can measure the stock studs to see how long they are as well
#19
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: 11-08-11
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah my friend has been telling me this morning that I shouldn't get adapters because it'll create too much stress on the hubs and can seriously mess up my wheels. He said I would be better off either getting extended studs and spacers or scrapping that whole deal and just buying wider wheels. The latter is not an option with budget right now so would extended studs and maybe a 15mm spacer work fine?
#22
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
the stress part i was referring to was more along the lines of going thru the canyons and hitting the track.
but u are proof they can with stand over time
06_CobaltLS - spacers with extended studs or adapters hmmm idk haha
#25
the ring on the hub centers the wheel. so if you're running adapters it's the same concept. you want the adapters to be centered on your hubs, so when your wheels are centered on your adapters everything is in line. if the adapters are slightly offcentered on the hubs, and then the wheels are slightly off on the adapters. everything is now very far off and you will have horrible wheel shake along premature axle and hub wear.
but you've got that .375" of metal on the end sticking out. so after you put the rotor on, your usable threaded length is .8125" or 13/16" and the overall length is 1.1875 or 1 3/16". so you'll need at least a 1 3/16"(1.1875") thick adapter if you don't want to shave down your stock studs.
however.. lol. remember that .375"of metal at the end? well .375" > .1875" so if you want to run a 1" spacer you can shave .1875" off the .375"s of metal on the end of the stud and still have all your threads along with .1875" of metal before the threads. you won't be cutting threads until you cut that .375" of metal off.
have i confused you yet? good haha. cause you didn't need to read past the last sentence of my first paragraph where i said when rotor and hub are mated together, you have .8125" of thread on the stock studs. so, assuming the nut your are going to use to tighten those adapters doesn't come past the surface of the adapter. you can run a .8125" thickness, cut the excess metal off the end of your studs and still have every thread on there for when you don't run the adapters.
but since your question was shaving them down at all. that would be leaving the metal on the end and your length is 1.1875".
CLIFF NOTES!!!!
no thinner than 1.1875" if you don't want to touch your studs at all
no thinner than .8125" if you want to cut the ends of them but not effect the ability to go back to stock.
Yeah my friend has been telling me this morning that I shouldn't get adapters because it'll create too much stress on the hubs and can seriously mess up my wheels. He said I would be better off either getting extended studs and spacers or scrapping that whole deal and just buying wider wheels. The latter is not an option with budget right now so would extended studs and maybe a 15mm spacer work fine?
extended studs + spacer still brings the load out the same length as an adapter does. the only draw back though is that the spacer is just sandwiched in between the hub and the lugnut now and the wheel is clamped on further away from the hub. with adapters the adapters bolt on right snug next to the hub and the wheel bolts on the adapter so it's all nice and tight and even loads. that's why companies only make spacers X thick, and beyond that require an adapter, even if it's the same bolt pattern adapter..
ARP studs are used purpose built for their tinsel strength, mainly for drag racing and road racing. but with the high tinsel strength comes the advantage of what i was just explaining, i don't know of anyone doing it, but they "should" be able to handle the lug nuts being further out with the spacer like i mentioned in the paragraph above. imo i wouldn't run a spacer larger than 1/2" stock studs, 3/4" on arps.
/midnightrantpost.