wheel adapters
#51
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First contact the wheel company about re-drilling, a lot of company's will just re drill to your pattern. A wheel with a 35 offset plus let's say a 19mm adapter will be a ton o poke. You could also run the wheel in the 47 offset with a 10-15mm spacer.
#52
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I was thinking of just getting the +47 in the 5x110 pattern but i have seen pics of them and they just look like a flat wheel and don't have much concave.
Would I have to change studs for a 20mm adapter?
Here is a 17x7.5 +42 on a BRZ hardly any concave
Here is a 18x(something) +35 in the back more concave, +47 in the front less concave.
And then there is HONKY BOY's 18x9 +35 How much more poke are we talking than this if i get a 20mm adapter and a +35 wheel? 20mm more than HONKYs? Im fine with a little mexiflush.
Last edited by crashher0; 01-22-2014 at 11:09 AM.
#53
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You will need extended studs for anything over 5mm. 20mm more than the above picture will be mexi poke unless you are super low and a bunch of camber. I wouldn't put a flush offset/aggressive offset on the car until you get suspension first, it will look very out of place.
#54
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Alright, How do adapters connect? Say I got a 19mm or 20mm 5x110 to 5x100 adapter. I get and put the extended studs in my hub then bolt the adapter down with the bolts that come with it then, I bolt my wheel to the adapter using the lugs? Any suggestion on where or what studs to get to put a 19mm or 20mm adapter on a stock hub? I think I am going the adapter route for a better selection of wheels instead of redrilling anything that way I can use stock wheels for winter time.
So you are suggesting get my suspension (coils) put in place before worrying about running a flush or mexiflush stance? camber isnt my style, I like the mexiflush look with a wider tire.
So you are suggesting get my suspension (coils) put in place before worrying about running a flush or mexiflush stance? camber isnt my style, I like the mexiflush look with a wider tire.
#55
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You want the hub centric adapter, you will need to cut/shave your studs.
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
And yes, coilovers/springs should come first. The fitment will be aggressive but will have so much wheel gap.
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
And yes, coilovers/springs should come first. The fitment will be aggressive but will have so much wheel gap.
#56
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Yeah thats the website I got a quote from to get the hub and wheel centric adapters, I thought you said i need longer studs to run the adapter. Can i get different shorter studs to install the adapters so i can keep the stock studs to run stock wheels? or does it take a machine to replace studs?
Edit: I just read up on a few stud replacement threads and it doesn't look to difficult. Would you suggest buying an extra set of studs and cutting them or will my stock wheels be fine on a cut stud for the winter?
Edit: I just read up on a few stud replacement threads and it doesn't look to difficult. Would you suggest buying an extra set of studs and cutting them or will my stock wheels be fine on a cut stud for the winter?
Last edited by crashher0; 01-22-2014 at 04:02 PM.
#58
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I get and put the extended studs in my hub then bolt the adapter down with the bolts that come with it then, I bolt my wheel to the adapter using the lugs? Any suggestion on where or what studs to get to put a 19mm or 20mm adapter on a stock hub? I think I am going the adapter route for a better selection of wheels instead of redrilling anything that way I can use stock wheels for winter time..
Suspension first. Car will look retarded with pokey wheels and no drop.
#60
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Ok I think that's the route i'm going to go. If the stock studs need to be ground down or cut with a 19mm adapter how short will they be? Will they be too short to take off the adapter and put the stock wheel back on? That's what i'm worried about is wintertime I would like to keep my stock wheels and snow tires to swap out.
Thanks for the clarification Shortbus!
Thanks for the clarification Shortbus!
#65
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Would something of this size fit in them or something close to this? (First link in my google search)
Open End Bulge Acorn Wheel Lug Nuts Cone Seat M12x1 5 19mm Hex Qty 20` | eBay
Open End Bulge Acorn Wheel Lug Nuts Cone Seat M12x1 5 19mm Hex Qty 20` | eBay
#66
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Ok so if I ran my calculations correctly with a 19mm adapter and a +35 offset 18x8 wheel, aftermarket wheels will stick out approximately 1.5" further than stock ss/tc wheels?
Is this a safe approximation? I am trying to figure out how much further out it will poke than stock.
Is this a safe approximation? I am trying to figure out how much further out it will poke than stock.
#67
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I measured the dimension and with the help of my co-workers. 6mm with hub-centric ring. The blueish coating is anticorrosion I'd sprayed - which I may have over done it. Oh well better protection.
I made these for my stock studs going from my current 245/30/20 to a more forgiving 255/30/20. Not much more side wall but every little bit will help.
BTW, our offset is actually 105mm and not 110mm as I thought.
I made these for my stock studs going from my current 245/30/20 to a more forgiving 255/30/20. Not much more side wall but every little bit will help.
BTW, our offset is actually 105mm and not 110mm as I thought.
Last edited by blrt; 04-19-2014 at 10:42 AM.
#68
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I measured the dimension and with the help of my co-workers. 6mm with hub-centric ring. The blueish coating is anticorrosion I'd sprayed - which I may have over done it. Oh well better protection.
I made these for my stock studs going from my current 245/30/20 to a more forgiving 255/30/20. Not much more side wall but every little bit will help.
BTW, our offset is actually 105mm and not 110mm as I thought.
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/bluert/IMG_20140419_091947_zpsb1bddbe8.jpg[/IG]
I made these for my stock studs going from my current 245/30/20 to a more forgiving 255/30/20. Not much more side wall but every little bit will help.
BTW, our offset is actually 105mm and not 110mm as I thought.
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/bluert/IMG_20140419_091947_zpsb1bddbe8.jpg[/IG]
First I've ever heard that. They've been 5x110 since 2005.
#69
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Ok, you are right, 5x110 makes sense if you measure from outside to centre where I measured centre to centre.
#71
Guess i'll drop this here
got 5x110 to 5x110 1" hub adapters, i think they were hubcentric (67.1mm?) i forget though.
bought 20 new lug nuts from napa and they came with no nubs on them, so i could simply swap them onto my existing hubs without having to grind down my current ones. win.
the results, on 225/40/18 tires and lowered 1'' front, 1.5'' rear: the fronts are sooo flush. the rears poke out a tad. for some reason my passenger rear pokes out a half inch more than the drivers side, which means somethings wrong with my car
both back tires rub on the fender, assuming all is right they should both rub like the drivers side, which pretty much shaved off just a bit of tire on the sidewall, then stopped.
having rear passengers is not advised though unless you do some fender rolling.
got 5x110 to 5x110 1" hub adapters, i think they were hubcentric (67.1mm?) i forget though.
bought 20 new lug nuts from napa and they came with no nubs on them, so i could simply swap them onto my existing hubs without having to grind down my current ones. win.
the results, on 225/40/18 tires and lowered 1'' front, 1.5'' rear: the fronts are sooo flush. the rears poke out a tad. for some reason my passenger rear pokes out a half inch more than the drivers side, which means somethings wrong with my car
both back tires rub on the fender, assuming all is right they should both rub like the drivers side, which pretty much shaved off just a bit of tire on the sidewall, then stopped.
having rear passengers is not advised though unless you do some fender rolling.