ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Sigh. There is a good deal on one near me but it's a lot of money... $550 picked up for a whole kit. I should just do it and skip wheels.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Is that the v2 or v3 kit?

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Brand new v3 kit with the intake mani already plumbed up. Basically swap the intake manifold and dipstick tube and then go.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

That's def worth the 550 then, that version stops it all (or damn close to all of it)

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Is even a little oil good? Valves need to be lubricated and such.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

The exposed valves and seats don't need lubrication.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

this--->

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

the visible part of the valve when looking through intake ports shouldnt be lubricated lol.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

So I'll probably buy the Powell kit but I just want to know what cleaners to use and approx how long it should take?

ThoR294

pick up my v3 already u butt

Tdubbs

I used CRC GDI Valve cleaner, sprayed it on and let it soak for a bit, scrubbed, sprayed it again, etc.

How long depends on how good of a job you want to do. You can do it all in an hour, but it's not going to be worth it doing it that fast. I spent about 45m-1hr per cylinder when I did mine, but I took my sweet ass time trying to make it as clean as possible.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

GM Top End Cleaner

or

BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner.
This is a similar process for our car.
http://www.will-son.com/docs/Direct_..._Procedure.pdf

ThoR294

I have ac delco cleaner and crc valve cleaner as well to go with the kit

T-Man

iTrader: (3)

I don't recall what brand of cleaner(s) I used but the whole process was rather simple. I recommend some good picks, nylon brushes and a rifle cleaning kit. I would also suggest rigging up a suction device you can put into the port before, during and after to ensure you don't miss any of the crap you will no doubt remove.

I would love to help you with the catch can question but I don't run one myself. Powell's is the best, hands down.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

If you don't run a catch can what's stopping the oil from getting back in? Or are you not concerned with it?

Hemphog

iTrader: (2)

You'll want to check out Wangspeed's posts then for more racecar which will lead you to Powell...did your car come with spherical bushings?

Thanks to those for clarification on GMS1 and learn down as there were prior questionables.
Who ended up with the Wang car anyway?

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

His car is huge inspiration though. I have Powell sphericals and new arms. I have YYZ v1 fe5 and Koni rears. And new sway bar bushings. Endlinks were replaced recently (last inspection)

Hemphog

iTrader: (2)

I bent my stock endlinks, went with moog and they handled the work so far. Powell recommends adjustable but depends on $. You're off with some goodies then.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

I got moogs as well. And as soon as the damn salt is off the roads I will! Got a pretty good deal on the struts and springs (Floridian car so hardly any wear). They have miles but they're going to make clean Koni housings when they're done. Downpipe is next

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

I did what T-man did but let mine soak overnight since it was parked for the year.
Powell makes good stuff and I try to buy as much from him as I can because he has been a big supporter. Still need to get some cut front strut housing to slip my koni's in. I also went with the adjustable end links but haven't played with them yet.

T-Man

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, I'm just not that concerned with it. If I pushed the car hard on a road course or track on a consistent basis, sure.

I'm sure most would call me crazy but it's not that hard to just treat the valve cleaning like general maintenance.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

My dad was suggesting just don't run a catch can or anything just clean the valves every other year. I don't plan on pushing it hard. Maybe an auto cross event to try it and TOTD if I can make it but just daily driving and having fun.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

There are things you can do to help keep the valves cleaner. Run a low ash oil, use top tier fuel (again less ash), limit long idling time, keep the RPMs above 2350 while cruising, and give it the "Italian" tune-up (drive the car like it was designed to be driven at the track high rpms for extended periods of time. All that will help limit the build up, but you'll still have to clean some off.

The catch cans just don't work on our cars, the oil is a mist not splashes of oil.

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

I run Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic and use Sunoco 93 octane fuel. Ac Delco filter and always drain it all and fill with 5 qts.