Just curious to what everyone paid for their gsm1. My dealership is asking $650 part and $850 installation .

As for aftermarket parts for the SS TC, I am wondering if there is an aftermarket part (exhaust, intake, etc.) that will hold the warranty. I have seen the SLP exhaust for the SC SS but cannot find one for the TC SS. I won't fuss about it too much if there isn't since I did choose the extended warranty.

Is their by any chance another aftermarket tune that upgrades my car and also hides the fact that I have been tuned not by GM? or should I keep dreaming.



I have tried searching and all I have failed

 

GMS1 prices vary. First shop I called wanted $1400 for the parts and the labor. Next place I called wanted like $660 for the parts and ~$90 for labor.

 

You can buy a spare ECU off of GMPD and tune that one and keep the stock one for warranty or buy the Trifecta switchable/hidden tune, it's suppose to show a stock GM flash, but rumor has it GM is starting to catch on to this but it can still be reverted back to stock.

 

I ordered from Crateenginedepot.com and with shipping and duty (unfortunately) it came to 590 CAD and then the install was 297 taxes in (CAD) and the only reason I think it was that much was because the tech had to call GM to figure out how to calibrate it..........something to do with the VCN and what not. I had mentionned to him to solder the connection however he had said the pigtail connectors that come with it are good. The common mistake made is pinching the connector and letting the clue out. I was in the bay with him while he was installing it and we stumbled upon a service bulletin regarding the kit, I believe it was making sure the sensor in the charge pipe was FLUSH. I completely trust my tech as he installed a new engine in my previous SS SC, he's a great guy and knows his stuff so I'm hoping there's no issues. Right now I'm stock except a K&N Drop-in Air filter and I do have the K&N SRI on the way. The car is a little monster, you WILL notice a difference, 2nd gear is a beast, I found that before the kit was installed, it kinda faded atfer 4500ish RPM and this completely cures it. The most i've peaked so far was 22.3 PSI and I've held steady at 20. If you wanna keep your warranty, definitely go for the GMS1, if you don't care about warranty, Go trifecta by the amount of hype surrounding Vince.

 

Gsm1? Gms1

 

I played off dealers. I just went down to the local one and said the one next town over would sell it to me for 500, they matched, plus 60 bux for labor. So out the door with tax I was ~600

 

I wanted to get the kit online because it was 150.00 cheaper than it was from my dealer, but the dealer said the work wouldnt be warrantied if the parts didnt come from them. So, I spoke with the Parts Manager and got him to match crateenginedepot.com's price of 505.50 for the kit. I wanted to install it myself, but then they wouldnt warranty the parts if I did the install. So, I spoke with the service manager and he ended up knocking the install price down and I still got the benefit of being fully warrantied.

In the end I paid somewhere around $630 for everything! Not too bad....

 

Just for reference, the butt-connectors supplied with the kit are more than enough for a proper install. I've been using the same connectors on airbag wiring for years without any issues.

They're more consistent than soldering because skill doesn't play as much of a factor. Also, if you heat the center of the connector around the wires before shrinking the ends it will drive out any moisture in the middle. I use a really good set of crimpers from Klein that have alot more leverage than most so I think that helps.

 

I paid $550? I think the day it was announced for the cobalt. Then 80 for flash, I installed the sensors myself. Aftermarket bolt ones are all up do the dealer if they want to void. Also read your warranty booklet, they cannot void your warranty if they cannot prove that bolt on caused the failure but be in the line for a long ride if they decide to try.

 

Don't bother with the GMS1. Just assume you're not going to keep your warranty and get a good tune from Trifecta or one of the HP Tuners guys. There have been too many issues with GMS1. I'm going to make this leap myself, one of these days.

 

That's a good point. My reason behind buying GMS1 was basically because I bought the car new so for the first couple of years I plan to keep my warranty and then later, become more aggressive with mods (Hopefully a turbo swap). I use this car as my daily driver and travel 60 km each way to work 4 days a week so I need it to treat me good and I need the Dealer to back any issue that comes up. I'm very happy with how the car performs and the fuel mileage I get so after the K&N SRI, my next years mods with likely be TTR Motor Mounts and upgraded tires. The greta thing about the kit though if there are issues, they will fix it.

 

Dealer Cost for GMS1 is $450.50, List is $650. Tell them you'll give the $500 and they'll probably do it.

 

the stage 1 isnt bad. its just not as powerful as aftermarket, why should it be? thats harder on everything. IMO it should of came with it stock, but its a good upgrade for a DD. not everyone wants/needs 9 billion whp.

 

ya, I mean 280/320 in a 3000lb car is pretty darn quick, most people for DD'in dont need it faster, at that point, what are you doing?

 

The general idea I think for most is buy the kit off the internet because the dealers charge way too much (at least in Canada) and the labour shouldn't be anymore than 2 hours.

Make sure you discuss the labour prior to getting it installed, you might end up with a shop that doesn't know jack and takes 4 hours. You definitely do NOT want to pay $400 for the install, set the labour before hand and as I said no more than 2 hours.

In regards to the install itself, the kit comes with butt connectors. Make sure you inform the dealer not to use them, they are junk and a lot of people have had connections issues which has caused a numerous variety of problems. Have the dealer solder all of the joints, it will only take them a couple extra minutes and it will save both of you a lot of hassle.

 

not true. If used properly butt connectors work very well. I installed my own kit and used the butt connectors. electrical taped them up so they look stock and have not had 1 issue. I think its installer error on the issues. GMPP wouldnt supply butt connectors if they didnt work.

 

i had to repair my one of my throttle wires with a butt connector and its working fine. the only time i have ever had a problem with one is when i didnt crimp it completly and didnt tug on the wires to make sure they were secure. so im gonna chalk any errors caused by the butt connectors up to installer error. you really gotta tug on the wires and make sure they are in there good.

 

I was in the Air Force for 27 years. We did not solder wires, we used crimp style connectors. So does the whole Aerospace Industry. There was more issues with soldering than crimping. Cold solder joints, etc.
My GMS1 is crimped and works great!

 

Ya but 340/380 is so much nicer

 

Think long and hard about GM1. I agree 1000% with *SSlobalt*...HTP tune or Trifecta all the way. You will actually get another 20HP or so with none of the GM1 *issues*. There are NO replacement parts with a TUNE..none. No messing around with wires..and loose/poor fitting sensors! I really don't think the warranty issue will be a problem...they won't *look* into it (ie, scan your ECM) unless they suspect that the issue is related to a performance mod. The won't do *that* unless you come in with **** on your car.
I have HTP tune (was on the car when I got it)...BONE STOCK... and I just brought the car in for a recall issue to replace the steering motor and a charge pipe mount. NO PROBLEMO! There's too much paranoia with this *warranty* thing..in my humble opinion. I feel very confident that any issue that comes up with my car will be COVERED...as long as I don't raise a RED FLAG with bolt ons. If you have any....take 'em off when you bring the car in. I would like to see one instance of a denied warranty claim because of a TUNE WHEN THE CAR COMPLETLY STOCK OTHERWISE. Personally, I have verified 308 WHP and 360 Ft Lbs Torque with NO BOLT ONS...NONE. Car is fast enough for me. Not putting down mods here....just a *reference* point for you.
It's your call.

 

If you blow a ring or a sleeve and take it in for warranty I can guarantee you that they'll be looking for a tune. If its found that your ECU software isn't factory, I can also guarantee you that it won't be warrantied.

 

yup this is true my dealer told me tunes and actually engine work will void your warranty but all bolt ons intake downpipe exhaust etc they dont care about and he even had a c6 supercharged corvette so he wasnt a bs guy lol all i have done is a k&n dropin so far gonna do the gms1 soon and then ill see if i do even want any bolt ons at all

 

First, like I said...there's all this *talk* about voiding the warranty. I would like to see ONE instance of a warranty claim being denied strictly based on having a tune with the car having NO BOLT ONS to tip them off. If someone here can show me a documented case under those specific conditions, I'll change my mind. Having said all this, with the type of tune that I have (Mild..no *pill mods*..no boosting over 24lbs..etc), I don't expect to be blowing rings ... sleeves....rods...pistons..etc. Let's just say, I can sleep at night knowing the warranty will be safe as far as I'm concerned.

 

what kind of tune do you have and do you ever take your car to the track? plus do you have an extra pcm?

 

Don't track the car. I have HTP tune around 22 lbs max..holds 20. I can have the car flashed back to stock if I really felt the *need* (never gonna happen). Like I said..no concerns for me as far as warranty goes.