had any problems on your 2010 SS?? (2010's only)
07-14-2010, 08:56 AM
#26
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I put some thought into this and came up with the following:
Since GM started putting the fuel pressure regulator into the fuel pump module, I've found that typically a bad fuel pressure regulator will cause an extended crank. When a regulator goes bad, the fuel pressure will drop very quickly to 0 when the vehicle is shut off. However I haven't noticed any lean conditions caused by this failure. This is reinforced by the fact that in a returnless direct injection system, the high pressure fuel pump provides the actual pressure needed and is electronically controlled.
Its possible that pump output could be low but that'd be more likely to show up under hard acceleration. The volume of fuel needed to drive the car at low speeds isn't great. So a bad fuel pump would be more likely to show up as a lean condition high in the RPM range.
I'm not going to claim that your mods are causing the problem or that its a tuning issue because I can't physically look at the car. I also don't claim to know everything and it could possibly be a bad pressure regulator or pump, I've seen stranger things happen.
Just thought I'd give my input based on the experience I've accrued over the years.
Since GM started putting the fuel pressure regulator into the fuel pump module, I've found that typically a bad fuel pressure regulator will cause an extended crank. When a regulator goes bad, the fuel pressure will drop very quickly to 0 when the vehicle is shut off. However I haven't noticed any lean conditions caused by this failure. This is reinforced by the fact that in a returnless direct injection system, the high pressure fuel pump provides the actual pressure needed and is electronically controlled.
Its possible that pump output could be low but that'd be more likely to show up under hard acceleration. The volume of fuel needed to drive the car at low speeds isn't great. So a bad fuel pump would be more likely to show up as a lean condition high in the RPM range.
I'm not going to claim that your mods are causing the problem or that its a tuning issue because I can't physically look at the car. I also don't claim to know everything and it could possibly be a bad pressure regulator or pump, I've seen stranger things happen.
Just thought I'd give my input based on the experience I've accrued over the years.
I appreciate that, I'm no tuner, nor a engine or mechanic speacialist but am simply going off what Vince said to me.
But I'm kinda following ya
it might also be something with my MAF being relocated into the Lower CP, because it's really only ment for a BOV which I no longer have or a bigger turbo setup
07-14-2010, 04:02 PM
#28
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With that much stuff wrong and the other things you have mentioned you can't rule out your car being a lemon
I would go back to the dealership and fight with them that it is but thats just me
07-14-2010, 04:09 PM
#29
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Since your car is stock I'm assuming because of your sig, did you ever think you have a lemon
With that much stuff wrong and the other things you have mentioned you can't rule out your car being a lemon
I would go back to the dealership and fight with them that it is but thats just me
With that much stuff wrong and the other things you have mentioned you can't rule out your car being a lemon
I would go back to the dealership and fight with them that it is but thats just me
Not much I can do about it at this point.
07-14-2010, 04:38 PM
#30
07-14-2010, 10:34 PM
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The last major revisions to these cars was in the spring of 09 .... they fixed some oil leaks , sound insulation on the fuel pump , and changed the calibration and added different mounts to help with the transmission cases cracking/ wheel hop in febuary 09 .
Figured someone would call me out on the calibration and mount differences so before anyone decides to .....here you go
#09-07-29-003: Transmission Fluid Leak, Slipping Clutch or Broken Axle Shaft (Replace Trans Assembly/Front/Rear Mounts and Both Axle Shafts-Contact District Svc Mgr (Warranty Mgr in Canada) for Repair Approval) - (Jun 12, 2009)
Subject: Transmission Fluid Leak Due to Clutch Housing Fatigue, Slipping Clutch or Broken Axle Shaft (Contact District Service Manager/Warranty Manager (in Canada) for Repair Approval)
Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS
2004-2007 Saturn ION Redline
Equipped with 5-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO MU3)
Built Prior to February 12, 2009 (Lordstown) or February 26, 2009 (Ramos)
Attention: Be advised that failures of this nature are generally caused by customer abuse. They are NOT defects in materials or workmanship for which General Motors would be responsible for and should not be covered under the terms of the new vehicle warranty. Vehicles with this complaint should be inspected by your service manager and District Service Manager (Warranty Manager in Canada). A field product report should be submitted on each case. Also, if aftermarket kits are added that may effect the driveline loads, the transmission would not be warranted.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment about a slipping clutch. Upon further investigation, the technician will find transmission oil in the clutch housing.
Cause
This condition may be caused by excessive front wheel hop during wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration events. Excessive wheel hop transmits a torsional shock load into the transmission case. This may cause the transmission case to fracture (as shown in graphic below) and transmission fluid to leak into the clutch housing.
Correction
Important: Prior to any work being performed, contact your District Service Manager/Warranty Manager for repair approval.
For 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt SS and 2004-2007 Saturn ION Redline
If this repair is approved by the District Service Manager/Warranty Manager, replace the transmission assembly. During removal of the transmission, replace the front (GM P/N 20814994) and rear (GM P/N 20814995) powertrain mounts. Refer to SI for the procedures on replacing the transmission front and rear mounts.
For 2008-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS and 2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS
If this repair is approved by the District Service Manager/Warranty Manager, replace the transmission assembly. During removal of the transmission, inspect the following parts and replace if necessary (excluding tires):
• Tire wear (excessive or uneven) front vs. rear or rubber debris in the front wheel house liner area.
• Inspect the upper right side mount for fluid leaks or (rubber) structural failure.
• Front and rear powertrain mounts, if necessary (refer to SI for the procedure on replacing the transmission front and rear mounts).
Important: Verify that the 12-volt battery has a battery charge of 12 to 16 volts. The battery must be able to maintain a charge during programming. Only use approved Midtronics 165-PCS charger or equivalent to maintain proper battery voltage during programming. The J 2534 MDI will reprogram the modules in less time than the Tech 2Ž scan tool.
Reprogram the ABS with a updated service calibration using the TIS2WEB Service Programming System (SPS) application. Make sure your Tech 2Ž is updated with the latest software version. The ABS calibration is available to dealerships in TIS2WEB (website version of TIS). Refer to Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control Module Reprogramming with SPS procedure in SI.
Install Clutch Actuator Pipe Elbow Assembly (P/N 24252286)
•Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
•Remove the cover from the underhood electrical center.
•Remove the underhood electrical center bracket from the vehicle and reposition the electrical center (1) to access the bracket. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement.
Note: Rotate the hose to stop brake fluid from running out of it.
•Disconnect the hydraulic clutch hose (3) from the clutch actuator cylinder (2) and the clutch master cylinder (1).
•Install the clutch actuator pipe elbow assembly, GM P/N 24252286.
•Connect the hydraulic clutch hose (3) to the clutch actuator cylinder (2).
•Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding.
•Install the underhood electrical center bracket to the vehicle and install the electrical center into position on the bracket. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement.
•Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
24252286
Elbow Asm - Clu Actr Cyl Pipe
1
20814994
(Front) Transmission Mount
1
20814995
(Rear) Transmission Mount
1
Warranty Information
Use labor operation and time that is approved by the District Service Manager/Warranty Manager.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
Figured someone would call me out on the calibration and mount differences so before anyone decides to .....here you go
#09-07-29-003: Transmission Fluid Leak, Slipping Clutch or Broken Axle Shaft (Replace Trans Assembly/Front/Rear Mounts and Both Axle Shafts-Contact District Svc Mgr (Warranty Mgr in Canada) for Repair Approval) - (Jun 12, 2009)
Subject: Transmission Fluid Leak Due to Clutch Housing Fatigue, Slipping Clutch or Broken Axle Shaft (Contact District Service Manager/Warranty Manager (in Canada) for Repair Approval)
Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS
2004-2007 Saturn ION Redline
Equipped with 5-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO MU3)
Built Prior to February 12, 2009 (Lordstown) or February 26, 2009 (Ramos)
Attention: Be advised that failures of this nature are generally caused by customer abuse. They are NOT defects in materials or workmanship for which General Motors would be responsible for and should not be covered under the terms of the new vehicle warranty. Vehicles with this complaint should be inspected by your service manager and District Service Manager (Warranty Manager in Canada). A field product report should be submitted on each case. Also, if aftermarket kits are added that may effect the driveline loads, the transmission would not be warranted.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment about a slipping clutch. Upon further investigation, the technician will find transmission oil in the clutch housing.
Cause
This condition may be caused by excessive front wheel hop during wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration events. Excessive wheel hop transmits a torsional shock load into the transmission case. This may cause the transmission case to fracture (as shown in graphic below) and transmission fluid to leak into the clutch housing.
Correction
Important: Prior to any work being performed, contact your District Service Manager/Warranty Manager for repair approval.
For 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt SS and 2004-2007 Saturn ION Redline
If this repair is approved by the District Service Manager/Warranty Manager, replace the transmission assembly. During removal of the transmission, replace the front (GM P/N 20814994) and rear (GM P/N 20814995) powertrain mounts. Refer to SI for the procedures on replacing the transmission front and rear mounts.
For 2008-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS and 2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS
If this repair is approved by the District Service Manager/Warranty Manager, replace the transmission assembly. During removal of the transmission, inspect the following parts and replace if necessary (excluding tires):
• Tire wear (excessive or uneven) front vs. rear or rubber debris in the front wheel house liner area.
• Inspect the upper right side mount for fluid leaks or (rubber) structural failure.
• Front and rear powertrain mounts, if necessary (refer to SI for the procedure on replacing the transmission front and rear mounts).
Important: Verify that the 12-volt battery has a battery charge of 12 to 16 volts. The battery must be able to maintain a charge during programming. Only use approved Midtronics 165-PCS charger or equivalent to maintain proper battery voltage during programming. The J 2534 MDI will reprogram the modules in less time than the Tech 2Ž scan tool.
Reprogram the ABS with a updated service calibration using the TIS2WEB Service Programming System (SPS) application. Make sure your Tech 2Ž is updated with the latest software version. The ABS calibration is available to dealerships in TIS2WEB (website version of TIS). Refer to Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control Module Reprogramming with SPS procedure in SI.
Install Clutch Actuator Pipe Elbow Assembly (P/N 24252286)
•Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
•Remove the cover from the underhood electrical center.
•Remove the underhood electrical center bracket from the vehicle and reposition the electrical center (1) to access the bracket. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement.
Note: Rotate the hose to stop brake fluid from running out of it.
•Disconnect the hydraulic clutch hose (3) from the clutch actuator cylinder (2) and the clutch master cylinder (1).
•Install the clutch actuator pipe elbow assembly, GM P/N 24252286.
•Connect the hydraulic clutch hose (3) to the clutch actuator cylinder (2).
•Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Refer to Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding.
•Install the underhood electrical center bracket to the vehicle and install the electrical center into position on the bracket. Refer to Underhood Electrical Center or Junction Block Bracket Replacement.
•Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
24252286
Elbow Asm - Clu Actr Cyl Pipe
1
20814994
(Front) Transmission Mount
1
20814995
(Rear) Transmission Mount
1
Warranty Information
Use labor operation and time that is approved by the District Service Manager/Warranty Manager.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
07-15-2010, 01:31 AM
#35
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The last major revisions to these cars was in the spring of 09 .... they fixed some oil leaks , sound insulation on the fuel pump , and changed the calibration and added different mounts to help with the transmission cases cracking/ wheel hop in febuary 09 .
Figured someone would call me out on the calibration and mount differences so before anyone decides to .....here you go
Figured someone would call me out on the calibration and mount differences so before anyone decides to .....here you go
07-15-2010, 10:57 AM
#36
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1,300 miles here and the only thing wrong with it is kind of an odd one. The A/C won't blow completely cold unless the temp dial is one notch above full cold. I think it needs a control head but haven't got around to putting one in it yet.
Cars -are- improved upon in some years because of all the bulletins released. An example would be the sound insulation around the high pressure fuel pump. That's factory in the later SS cars.
Cars -are- improved upon in some years because of all the bulletins released. An example would be the sound insulation around the high pressure fuel pump. That's factory in the later SS cars.
Is that on the top of the door, towards the back? I think I have the same thing, noticed it a while back and didn't think much of it. Just checked and it seems to have gotten worse! I'll have to take it in to have them fix it before it gets any worse. Looks like its through to the primer coat already!
And my car's manufactured date was 02/2010. I bought it with 3 miles on it
07-15-2010, 11:10 AM
#37
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yeah mine is hitting in one spot at the back ... the body guy at my dealer is great, doesn't dick u around and gets stuff done fast, on time & doesn't beat around the bush with shotty repairs. I'm sure it'll get taken care of properly I'm going in to see them tmrw afternoon when im off work.
07-15-2010, 09:13 PM
#40
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My AC doesn't always blow cold either. I think it has to do something with the control unit. I say this because it'll randomly go from blowing air forward down to the feet and then to the window. I have to mess with the position switch a few times before it starts blowing in the correct position. As far as it not being cold, on very hot days, it takes FOREVER to start blowing cold air. Don't remember having this problem in my Pontiac G5.
I have a new control head sitting on my box and I'll probably be installing it tommorrow... I'll let you know how it goes. Just to mention I checked the knobs of the new A/C control head and they feel like they take more effort to turn. *shrugs* We'll see what happens.
07-15-2010, 09:37 PM
#41
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I have just noticed my drivers door is doing the same thing also on the top right of the body. Only other problem was the cruise control quit working 1 time, restarted the car later and then seemed to work fine since then. I only have about 2700 miles on it so far though.
07-16-2010, 09:30 AM
#42
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I noticed the same thing with the airflow issue but it wasn't as drastic.
I have a new control head sitting on my box and I'll probably be installing it tommorrow... I'll let you know how it goes. Just to mention I checked the knobs of the new A/C control head and they feel like they take more effort to turn. *shrugs* We'll see what happens.
I have a new control head sitting on my box and I'll probably be installing it tommorrow... I'll let you know how it goes. Just to mention I checked the knobs of the new A/C control head and they feel like they take more effort to turn. *shrugs* We'll see what happens.
And as far as the AC goes, it has a mind of it's own and blows really cold air when I'm not in dire need of it. Go figure I have just noticed my drivers door is doing the same thing also on the top right of the body. Only other problem was the cruise control quit working 1 time, restarted the car later and then seemed to work fine since then. I only have about 2700 miles on it so far though.
07-16-2010, 10:29 PM
#44
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Wait, so are we saying 2008-2009 models don't have this issue? Or is this a SS/TC issue all together?[/QUOTE]
Not sure if the 08-09's do as well title said 2010's only so I am not sure. I would imagine they all do.
Not sure if the 08-09's do as well title said 2010's only so I am not sure. I would imagine they all do.
10-10-2010, 12:26 PM
#45
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1 the car is at the dealer right now the linkage is pop t off during a no-lift shift from 1 first to second gear
And wen i bought the car it had 15 psi of boost now only have 9 or 10 psi all the time .
doesint pull like wen it was fresh ..
i am a little disapointed it only have 2800 klm so i wish i dont have a limond .
ps: sorry for my english i am french ..
10-10-2010, 03:55 PM
#46
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bought my 2010 ss/tc in january i have 12800 miles on it now. i have the stage 1 installed as well. car runs great. only issue is that my left mirror wont go up. (only moves down, left and right) also my rear tire sensors say i have a flat every time i go on a bumpy road. other then those 2 issues. car runs solid. my only complaint with this car is the notchyness of the gears. and 5th is a little difficult to get into sometimes. but at the end of the day i love this car!! 
10-10-2010, 04:20 PM
#47
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hi i have a 2010 ss tc with 2800 klm on it i am in quebec and had 2 problemes
1 the car is at the dealer right now the linkage is pop t off during a no-lift shift from 1 first to second gear
And wen i bought the car it had 15 psi of boost now only have 9 or 10 psi all the time .
doesint pull like wen it was fresh ..
i am a little disapointed it only have 2800 klm so i wish i dont have a limond .
ps: sorry for my english i am french ..
1 the car is at the dealer right now the linkage is pop t off during a no-lift shift from 1 first to second gear
And wen i bought the car it had 15 psi of boost now only have 9 or 10 psi all the time .
doesint pull like wen it was fresh ..
i am a little disapointed it only have 2800 klm so i wish i dont have a limond .
ps: sorry for my english i am french ..
Don't ever no lift shift 1-2 it's known to do exactly what it did to you.
10-10-2010, 04:53 PM
#48
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Ok well to add to my list of things wrong that I posted on the first page, I just had the dealership replace my passenger door panel because it was coming apart where the whiskers are. Also, for the first time the other day my RPD wouldn't show boost. A couple people on here said its my upper MAP sensor shitting the bed on me. It went away after like five minutes and hasn't happened since. If this car wasn't so damn fun I'd be really pissed with everything that's gone wrong with it.
10-11-2010, 01:32 AM
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With 2500 miles on it, the ol girl threw a misfire cylinder 3 code. I unplugged the battery, and clear it. The code didn't return, thank God. It was bone stock when it happened.