How are the high mileage SS/TC's holding up
12-18-2013, 11:41 AM
#151
Please check your sway bar end links before you replace your hubs. I got the grinding sound making right turns and this fixed it. Or, if you're going to replace the axles and hubs anyway, spend an extra 50 bucks on a pair of Moog end links and swap them out while you're in there. Once I removed my stock ones I could hear nasty sounds from them just by rotating the bolts. They were so done.
12-18-2013, 03:49 PM
#153
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I have to ask - have you been re-greasing them regularly? Sucks if it is indeed your hub that is done, but most of the time it always seems to be something else causing the issue. Suspension, off-balance wheel, etc. Good luck either way, hopefully you get it fixed without TOO much trouble.
12-18-2013, 03:59 PM
#154
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My driver's rear inside pad was metal-on-metal and the outside pad was practically new. Passenger side was wearing even. Here I am 60k later and my rear pads are *maybe* 50% gone. Just goes to show a properly working set of rear pads should last over 100k on this car. A shame so many were screwed up from the factory.
12-18-2013, 04:56 PM
#156
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Oh yeah, I have this too, also right at 20k My driver's rear inside pad was metal-on-metal and the outside pad was practically new. Passenger side was wearing even. Here I am 60k later and my rear pads are *maybe* 50% gone. Just goes to show a properly working set of rear pads should last over 100k on this car. A shame so many were screwed up from the factory.
My driver's rear inside pad was metal-on-metal and the outside pad was practically new. Passenger side was wearing even. Here I am 60k later and my rear pads are *maybe* 50% gone. Just goes to show a properly working set of rear pads should last over 100k on this car. A shame so many were screwed up from the factory.
12-18-2013, 05:03 PM
#157
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It was a warranty fix by the dealer, so I assume OEM. I did my own front brakes at 50k with OEM as well. I'm doing more highway now so I may not need new fronts till 110-120k at this pace. I checked them out last weekend when I did my front suspension and the pads are still pretty thick.
12-18-2013, 07:15 PM
#158
Mine were stock pads and stock rotors. Actually mine didn't wear uneven there was plenty of pad left at 20k. They were grinding and it looked like someone took a chisel and carved out some pretty deep grooves on both inner pads. I'd guess that something got caught in there since there isn't a back plate.
12-18-2013, 08:20 PM
#159
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Interesting. My older TC had this issue and warranty took care of it, body warranty was out on my current one so I did it myself.
Inner pad was gone and the outer had tons of life left. Shout out to GM for not making a recall about this hah.
Inner pad was gone and the outer had tons of life left. Shout out to GM for not making a recall about this hah.
12-18-2013, 08:31 PM
#160
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12-18-2013, 10:00 PM
#161
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12-19-2013, 04:45 AM
#162
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93,035mi as I sit here at work.. running strong...
Granted I bought it used with like 78k the only previous owner had some transmission stuff, flywheel I think replaced under warranty... the only warranty work I had done was the left axle and hub... then my warranty went poof because I didn't extend it....
Outside of crappy tires the previous owner put on resulting in a gash in one and a side wall puncture in the other all is well in my world
Granted I bought it used with like 78k the only previous owner had some transmission stuff, flywheel I think replaced under warranty... the only warranty work I had done was the left axle and hub... then my warranty went poof because I didn't extend it....
Outside of crappy tires the previous owner put on resulting in a gash in one and a side wall puncture in the other all is well in my world
12-19-2013, 08:19 AM
#163
and Tom, I haven't ever greased them. the thing is i feel the grinding in my shifter when taking a left hand turn and then it goes away when it straightens out.
12-25-2013, 03:51 PM
#164
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also have 07 GM Saturn Aura 74,00..no major problems
07 GM Saturn Vue..Redline..72,000..no major issues..torque converter replaced under bumper to bumper warranty
I'm sticking to GM for now..but the future depends on tranny issue.
12-26-2013, 09:10 AM
#165
I have 134,000 miles. 09 SS Turbo Victory Red...Blew #1 piston ring at 84,000...engine rebuilt under powertain...blew 5th gear syncro at 98,000...new tranny installed under powertrain...limited slip as original...New tranny 2nd gear syncro went at 128,000...GM said get lost....Turbo fell apart at 134,000 and damaged the engine...(Nobody ever said the are good for 100-130,000 miles at the deakership! Just ordered new LDK from ZZP...will have installed next week...still dealing with the dealer as far as the tranny is conerned...I told the tech that something was wrong with the new tranny as soon as it was installed...tech refused to test drive the car...just went for a ride an said it seems ok to him...Now I know I was correct. I have been driving a stick for 42years..I don't race and I don't miss and grind gears. I'll let you guys know about the LDK and how the dealer deals with the tranny after the new year. I still love the car...it's my every day car.
also have 07 GM Saturn Aura 74,00..no major problems
07 GM Saturn Vue..Redline..72,000..no major issues..torque converter replaced under bumper to bumper warranty
I'm sticking to GM for now..but the future depends on tranny issue.
also have 07 GM Saturn Aura 74,00..no major problems
07 GM Saturn Vue..Redline..72,000..no major issues..torque converter replaced under bumper to bumper warranty
I'm sticking to GM for now..but the future depends on tranny issue.
12-30-2013, 02:04 PM
#166
Just turned 60k miles on my '09. I've had it since new. I daily drive it through NJ traffic. For the last 20k miles it's had basic bolt ons and running a 22lb trifecta tune. I've tracked the car every season for the past 3 years (drag and road course) and it's winter driven daily with a set of snow tires. I can't really talk about brake wear since I am constantly swapping brake rotors and pads around depending on a number of things but I did have to do the original rear pads and rotors at aorund 20k miles, but the replacements (factory pads, centric rotors) have gone 40k miles and I don't swap those for track days. So far the problems I've had with the car is the evaporiatve purge valve failed, my shift linkage clamp failed and I sheered off two valve lash adjusters. I do all my own work so I spent <$100 in repairs to date.
12-30-2013, 04:45 PM
#167
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On a side note, is there anything more to replacing the lash adjusters than popping off the cam cover, plucking the old ones out and dropping the new ones in? I get the occasional valve train tapping and wouldn't be surprised if I have some worn ones up in there, if not completely gone yet (car still drives fine).
12-30-2013, 08:51 PM
#168
On a side note, is there anything more to replacing the lash adjusters than popping off the cam cover, plucking the old ones out and dropping the new ones in? I get the occasional valve train tapping and wouldn't be surprised if I have some worn ones up in there, if not completely gone yet (car still drives fine).
01-01-2014, 01:07 PM
#171
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Never on a Dyno....tuned to 24lbs.....only other add on was the Modern performance intercooler. Again, I do not race from the line. On the highway, that's a different story.
Still waiting for the New engine from ZZP to arrive as of 1/1/2014 from ZZP. There is so much info that is not known about the new engine. It says it's LDK/LHU...cannot find what the actual HP/Torque is...220-250-270??????
Many say the turbo is what make the difference. I already purchased from ZZP and had a new K4 Turbo installed for the original engine...and then found that the engine was damaged when the Turbo fell apart.
Purchased the new engine with the turbo already installed.
May sell the old engine after having it rebuilt or have it ready for the future if I blow this one apart. Only time will tell.
Putting out this money still saves me from new car payments..so I'm good so far.
Still waiting for the New engine from ZZP to arrive as of 1/1/2014 from ZZP. There is so much info that is not known about the new engine. It says it's LDK/LHU...cannot find what the actual HP/Torque is...220-250-270??????
Many say the turbo is what make the difference. I already purchased from ZZP and had a new K4 Turbo installed for the original engine...and then found that the engine was damaged when the Turbo fell apart.
Purchased the new engine with the turbo already installed.
May sell the old engine after having it rebuilt or have it ready for the future if I blow this one apart. Only time will tell.
Putting out this money still saves me from new car payments..so I'm good so far.
01-05-2014, 05:36 PM
#172
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Bought my 09 brand new. Just rolled 85k last week.
I've done brakes twice, cam actuator solinoids in/ex, and I broke the ball linkage where the shift cable ties on to the ball on the shifter.
Other then that, it's been a great car, and I still enjoy driving it.
I've done brakes twice, cam actuator solinoids in/ex, and I broke the ball linkage where the shift cable ties on to the ball on the shifter.
Other then that, it's been a great car, and I still enjoy driving it.
01-05-2014, 05:57 PM
#174
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got an 09 TC with 80 ish clicks on it, KM that is. rear brakes and rotors( like everyone else) shifter cables, hand brake adjustments, injector on #3, spark plugs....worst was injector on #3, guy messed it up fixing it and messed up the seals and stuff on all other injectors somehow, had to change all of em...1500$ fix, all under warranty 
still loving the car though, no issues for the last 4-5 months
still loving the car though, no issues for the last 4-5 months
