Guys, I have a 6000lb jack, and rather than jacking it up one wheel at a time, I'd like to cheat and jack up the entire front at once, then the back at once, as I've seen done with other cars. Trouble is, I'm not sure what the points to do that would be. Suggestions?

Mal.

 

the rear u can use the big bar after ur gas tank, right beside where u install the rear sway bar, the front im not surre

 

subframe, and jackstands so you don't die


and the rear bar thingy-mah-bobber, and jackstands

 

Think I'll jack up one wheel in the front and back, to take some pictures, we can can confirm visually. It will turn this into a more useful thread for future reference that way Do it in an hour when I'm waxing my car for the winter (love the long lasting Klasse sealant!)

 

There is a piece of the sub-frame in the front between the motor and radiator that will work for the front. I use that all the time when changing my oil. As for the rear, you have a solid rear so there is a triangular looking thing with holes in it going across. You can use that for the rear, used it when installing my springs.

 

you mean like this ? (no stands in the back, jack right where i jacked it up)

 

this thread might also helps -> https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/general-cobalt-68/what-size-jack-do-i-need-lift-entire-front-up-same-time-137767/

 

lol that's exactly wat i was thinking when i saw the first post

 

Did you jack it up on the lip (I just bent mine), or on some other point?

Mal.

The side jacking seems good if we can find a nice point to do it. For front and back jacking I took the following pictures to ask where you would jack.

FRONT: Number 1 would be great if possible.



REAR: (number 1 is a frame of some sort (not black) just behind the indicated lip, but not in this picture. It's deep, so I would need some kind of extension block to jack there though. Number 2 would compress the springs I think, making it a poor choice for changing wheels.

 

Subscribed to thread

 

The front one makes sense, but won't the rear one compress the springs making it hard to change the wheels or install springs for that matter?

Mal.

 

Where in Toronto are you Mal?

 

Marin,

I'm in Scarborough, you?

 

kinda unsafe bro, i wouldnt do that without a stand at the front and back.
your relying on the car balancing correctly on that point....
is your life worth 30 seconds to slide 1 more jackstand under?

 

Of course thats unsafe lol. I took that right before I put the second jack stand under the car before moving around to the other side and jacking that side up (all 4 wheels up) to install the hahn exhaust .

 

lol ok good stuff

you gotta be careful on here though man, people will take you at your word on things you dont mean sometimes heh.

 

I'm not a big fan of using suspension parts for lifting points. I always try to find a spot on the (sub)frame to use. Hell, up front, there's arrows on the rocker panels pointing to where you need to lift. Lift the front high enough, and the stiffness of the car will pull the back tire too. Toss in a jack stand for safety (like pictured above) and you're good to go. Using suspension parts to lift the car increases your chances of f**king something up, throwing your car out of alignment, etc. That's just my $0.02. Take it FWIW.

 

I used a jack similar to those pictured in this thread, and ended up bending the lip where the arrow on the rocker panel points.... I believe those are only for the knife jack included with the car.

I'm still trying to figure out a good rear lift point though that's not on the suspension. I could live with the suspension point if it didn't interfere with wheel changes.

Mal.

 

good place for the rear is the number 2 on the last picture, iv done it many times and im lowered on h&r springs too

 

Cool (got your PM thanks!). I'm going to give it a try now and see if the wheels can still be changed while it's jacked up there. I'll post the results so we can close the thread.

 

North York. You ever come to the Thrusday night meets at Kennedy Commons?

 

todl him about the meets marin :P

 

The "black bar thingy-mah-bobber" is the rear axel. That'e exactly where i would jack it up from.

NOT EVEN REMOTELY SAFE! DO NOT JACK THE CAR UP THIS WAY!!!

In the first picture I would use jack point 1 and in the 2nd picture I would use jack point 2 (the axle). This will not compress the springs any more than they are when the car is sitting on the ground. In the front however I find that the lower spoiler is too low and I have to jack up one side at a time using the indicated jack points in the front and put jack stands under each side to get both front tires off the ground at the same time.

 

I always wondered this stuff also. I searched for a post but found none. I had the same problem, where the frame rail/sheetmetal lift point kind of bent in. I am also thinking this was only meant for the jack that came with the car... I use the rear suspension/bar with holes in it, and the subframe in front, kind of near the #2 in the front pic, but off to one side. After getting the front in the air, put jackstands on both sides. If I am climbing under the car, I am having a back-up as well. I figure I would look pretty stupid with the car laying on top of me. Also, remember to throw a cement block or piece of wood, spare tire, or something to chock the wheels.....so the car does not roll...had that happen once when being dumb...kinda scary when you are about to go under the car...was glad to see the extra jack kind of caught the car...just be safe, it is worth the extra few minutes...

 

You guys aren't seriously lifting the car on the thin 1/2 inch section of metal that is perpendicular to the frame of the car with a normal jack, are you?!?!?!?

The next time you have a minute, look under the car just behind the front tires. Just past that 1/2" thin strip that runs down the under sides of the car, there's a little mole hill welded to the floor of the car. This is the lift point that mechanics and dealerships use when they lift the front part of your cars with the 2-post hoist. If you're using a regular jack, this is where you should be lifting the front end of the vehicle. It's a nice flat surface about the size of a CD. You should even be able to avoid scaring it up by using a small piece of 2x4 wood. That is what my original post was refering to. I assumed this was what the original picture posted by IsItFast? was refering to as well. However, under closer inspection, it appears he's using the engine cradle.

I haven't had to lift the car from the back yet. But, I'd assume there are similar type lift points that a dealership or mechanic would use when lifting with a 2-post.

This isn't rocket science guys...