Jacking up the car for winter tires...
#1
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Jacking up the car for winter tires...
Guys, I have a 6000lb jack, and rather than jacking it up one wheel at a time, I'd like to cheat and jack up the entire front at once, then the back at once, as I've seen done with other cars. Trouble is, I'm not sure what the points to do that would be. Suggestions?
Mal.
Mal.
#4
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Think I'll jack up one wheel in the front and back, to take some pictures, we can can confirm visually. It will turn this into a more useful thread for future reference that way Do it in an hour when I'm waxing my car for the winter (love the long lasting Klasse sealant!)
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There is a piece of the sub-frame in the front between the motor and radiator that will work for the front. I use that all the time when changing my oil. As for the rear, you have a solid rear so there is a triangular looking thing with holes in it going across. You can use that for the rear, used it when installing my springs.
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Think I'll jack up one wheel in the front and back, to take some pictures, we can can confirm visually. It will turn this into a more useful thread for future reference that way Do it in an hour when I'm waxing my car for the winter (love the long lasting Klasse sealant!)
#7
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Guys, I have a 6000lb jack, and rather than jacking it up one wheel at a time, I'd like to cheat and jack up the entire front at once, then the back at once, as I've seen done with other cars. Trouble is, I'm not sure what the points to do that would be. Suggestions?
Mal.
Mal.
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#9
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Did you jack it up on the lip (I just bent mine), or on some other point?
Mal.
The side jacking seems good if we can find a nice point to do it. For front and back jacking I took the following pictures to ask where you would jack.
FRONT: Number 1 would be great if possible.
REAR: (number 1 is a frame of some sort (not black) just behind the indicated lip, but not in this picture. It's deep, so I would need some kind of extension block to jack there though. Number 2 would compress the springs I think, making it a poor choice for changing wheels.
Mal.
The side jacking seems good if we can find a nice point to do it. For front and back jacking I took the following pictures to ask where you would jack.
FRONT: Number 1 would be great if possible.
REAR: (number 1 is a frame of some sort (not black) just behind the indicated lip, but not in this picture. It's deep, so I would need some kind of extension block to jack there though. Number 2 would compress the springs I think, making it a poor choice for changing wheels.
Last edited by malachii; 10-11-2008 at 03:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#11
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There is a piece of the sub-frame in the front between the motor and radiator that will work for the front. I use that all the time when changing my oil. As for the rear, you have a solid rear so there is a triangular looking thing with holes in it going across. You can use that for the rear, used it when installing my springs.
Mal.
#14
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your relying on the car balancing correctly on that point....
is your life worth 30 seconds to slide 1 more jackstand under?
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Of course thats unsafe lol. I took that right before I put the second jack stand under the car before moving around to the other side and jacking that side up (all 4 wheels up) to install the hahn exhaust .
#17
I'm not a big fan of using suspension parts for lifting points. I always try to find a spot on the (sub)frame to use. Hell, up front, there's arrows on the rocker panels pointing to where you need to lift. Lift the front high enough, and the stiffness of the car will pull the back tire too. Toss in a jack stand for safety (like pictured above) and you're good to go. Using suspension parts to lift the car increases your chances of f**king something up, throwing your car out of alignment, etc. That's just my $0.02. Take it FWIW.
#18
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I'm not a big fan of using suspension parts for lifting points. I always try to find a spot on the (sub)frame to use. Hell, up front, there's arrows on the rocker panels pointing to where you need to lift. Lift the front high enough, and the stiffness of the car will pull the back tire too. Toss in a jack stand for safety (like pictured above) and you're good to go. Using suspension parts to lift the car increases your chances of f**king something up, throwing your car out of alignment, etc. That's just my $0.02. Take it FWIW.
I'm still trying to figure out a good rear lift point though that's not on the suspension. I could live with the suspension point if it didn't interfere with wheel changes.
Mal.
#20
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Cool (got your PM thanks!). I'm going to give it a try now and see if the wheels can still be changed while it's jacked up there. I'll post the results so we can close the thread.
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Did you jack it up on the lip (I just bent mine), or on some other point?
Mal.
The side jacking seems good if we can find a nice point to do it. For front and back jacking I took the following pictures to ask where you would jack.
FRONT: Number 1 would be great if possible.
REAR: (number 1 is a frame of some sort (not black) just behind the indicated lip, but not in this picture. It's deep, so I would need some kind of extension block to jack there though. Number 2 would compress the springs I think, making it a poor choice for changing wheels.
Mal.
The side jacking seems good if we can find a nice point to do it. For front and back jacking I took the following pictures to ask where you would jack.
FRONT: Number 1 would be great if possible.
REAR: (number 1 is a frame of some sort (not black) just behind the indicated lip, but not in this picture. It's deep, so I would need some kind of extension block to jack there though. Number 2 would compress the springs I think, making it a poor choice for changing wheels.
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I'm not a big fan of using suspension parts for lifting points. I always try to find a spot on the (sub)frame to use. Hell, up front, there's arrows on the rocker panels pointing to where you need to lift. Lift the front high enough, and the stiffness of the car will pull the back tire too. Toss in a jack stand for safety (like pictured above) and you're good to go. Using suspension parts to lift the car increases your chances of f**king something up, throwing your car out of alignment, etc. That's just my $0.02. Take it FWIW.
#25
You guys aren't seriously lifting the car on the thin 1/2 inch section of metal that is perpendicular to the frame of the car with a normal jack, are you?!?!?!?
The next time you have a minute, look under the car just behind the front tires. Just past that 1/2" thin strip that runs down the under sides of the car, there's a little mole hill welded to the floor of the car. This is the lift point that mechanics and dealerships use when they lift the front part of your cars with the 2-post hoist. If you're using a regular jack, this is where you should be lifting the front end of the vehicle. It's a nice flat surface about the size of a CD. You should even be able to avoid scaring it up by using a small piece of 2x4 wood. That is what my original post was refering to. I assumed this was what the original picture posted by IsItFast? was refering to as well. However, under closer inspection, it appears he's using the engine cradle.
I haven't had to lift the car from the back yet. But, I'd assume there are similar type lift points that a dealership or mechanic would use when lifting with a 2-post.
This isn't rocket science guys...
The next time you have a minute, look under the car just behind the front tires. Just past that 1/2" thin strip that runs down the under sides of the car, there's a little mole hill welded to the floor of the car. This is the lift point that mechanics and dealerships use when they lift the front part of your cars with the 2-post hoist. If you're using a regular jack, this is where you should be lifting the front end of the vehicle. It's a nice flat surface about the size of a CD. You should even be able to avoid scaring it up by using a small piece of 2x4 wood. That is what my original post was refering to. I assumed this was what the original picture posted by IsItFast? was refering to as well. However, under closer inspection, it appears he's using the engine cradle.
I haven't had to lift the car from the back yet. But, I'd assume there are similar type lift points that a dealership or mechanic would use when lifting with a 2-post.
This isn't rocket science guys...