Miltb

As the tittle states, is swapping to LSJ rear brakes on my LNF easy to do?

​​​​​​Purpose would be to get rid of the troublesome rear TC brakes that always seem to grind and etc.

​Powell says he used front brembos with stock lsj rears on his lsj or redline? And it was fine?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Iirc the lsj has the same issues as the lnf rear braking wise.

Miltb

Really?? You sure??

Never seen a thread or post on it ever being a problem .... 🤔

TC's have issues with the rear brakes without fail.
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ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Yes, the grown just like the lnfs. Iirc the only difference is size.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Miltb

Interesting ....
Loud brakes you mean???

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

lube the **** out of your slide pins, they say 'light coat" but they can use a nice heavier coat especially in winter time when things get stiff. adjust your ebrake cable properly, should grab and hold in about 5-7 clicks. replace the cables from the car to calipers, mine had rust holes. all 3 of these things helped my rear brakes to the point where pad wear is almost dead even. then again, it also had the calipers replaced at 82k (at 128k now). I need new rear rotors and pads though, the ebay ones i have on are junk.

ProfDNS

r1concepts has a good set on Amazon:

Miltb

Sweet. I'm not so worried about brake noise either as much as having unreliable brakes that wear to fast.

I'm pretty sure lnf rears will swap onto an lsj car, using the lnf brake lines as well .... If it works one way I assume it'll work in backwards too.

Is Powell from Ontario Canada?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Where are you getting they wear to fast? I've been running the same rear rotors for 100k miles (with some spirited driving and braking) had to put new pads in around 50k miles.

Powell is in Ontario

Miltb

Wow guess you greased them good? Is there also a caliper bur problem .... From the thread I was reading. 100k is amazing .... Dunno how you could get that many miles outta brakes on any car??

Well I'm getting it from the massive lnf brake problem sticky thread .... And have had friend's with crappy rest brakes on there LNF's .... Including one who had his rears seize completely so just drove without them for awhile.

Powell is from Ontario woop .... Makes shipping cheaper for me .... If I assume right he's about Two hours away. Likely gonna do rotated mounts.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I grease them semi regularly, most of the braking is the fronts. I've replaced those rotors twice already and 3 or 4 sets of pads (I don't usually run the pads to the end of life though).

I'd ask powell about the subject also

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

Those are junk. Either way, don't get drilled rotors.
I've never had any issues with the rear brakes on my 2010 LNF. Not sure if they finally fixed them or if I'm just lucky

ProfDNS

Junk brakes/rotors I define wearing them out <= 30,000km or them cracking or warping within the first couple of years.

I have slotted and drilled rotors now with ceramic pads and driving through traffic on one of the busiest highways of North America daily, they've held up very well. Close to 26,000kms now.

The black is gone, they're like a grey now (not silver).

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

The only issues I've ran into with lnf calipers are the ebrake portion of it stopped working and it wouldn't engage the ebrake with enough force and my car would roll. Other than that same here in 5 years I've owned 2 lnfs I've only changed the rear rotors once on each car

Miltb

Awesome .... Thanks for the replies everyone.
from the sounds of it I should be good with just heavily greasing the heck out of the calipers (sliding areas and places that could seize.
should I put a bit of lithium on the rotots too?

​​​​​​Proper maintenance and the caliper being greased properly seems key.

I might buy new pads .... Hawk HPS 5.0 or OEM?

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cobaltss#01

iTrader: (4)

Oem

Miltb

Why?

Less noise? .... Orrrr? Better? .... Cheaper?

ThePanduuh

iTrader: (3)

Quality. I have ebay rear pads and rotors. have maybe 30k on them and rotors are hairline cracked in several spots

but im not about to spend $250 on rear brakes before winter. They are working fine, winter wheels on so I'm not tracking or doing stupid hard stops. Just needs to last a few more months till I can get it fixed properly.

Miltb

OEM will be quality of course .... But hawk also makes very good pads .... I have them on my other car .... Stopping is pretty consistent ....

colodude18

iTrader: (4)

I disagree. I went from stock pads on all 4 corners to Hawk HPS and I lost 2 seconds on my track lap times. I know that is extreme use, but still, it shows that nothing beats OEM. Well except race pads. Which I run Hawk's now as well (DTC-70's).

Sport Red LNF

There is NOTHING defective about the rear brakes on LNF models. The only common issue that occurs is uneven brake pad wear caused by a lack of lubrication on the caliper slide pins. The calipers are made by ATE and are used by many other OEMs. The best thing you can do as an owner is to invest in quality brake pads and rotors and properly apply high temperature synthetic brake lubricant to the caliper pins, not the $1 packet of dielectric grease that some auto parts stores will sell you. Permatex makes an excellent high temp synthetic ceramic brake parts lubricant that I've used for years, it will even hold up to track days:

Miltb

Okay .... Good to know .... Guess gm made really good track type pads for these considering they put a track record out with the TC

Miltb

Done .... That's what I'll do ....

I just want this car to be less problems than my other car.