cfsnipers

You have them installed already without being tuned? Or you have them on standby to install?

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

They've been on the car since I bought it. I'm running the ZZP canned tune. It was set up for 3 bar maps.

cfsnipers

Ahhhhhhhh gotcha. Like others have said...canned tunes can be *****. Even from awesome companies like zzp. I feel like once your hptuned all your problems will be solved. I have never seen knock at 23.5 psi putting 310 to the wheels on 91.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that's what I'm hoping for. Canned tunes can get close but there's no one size fits all solution. Next Tuesday is the day. Already paid my deposit.

ctn2mb

iTrader: (2)

You'll get slight knock being on the LDK on a dyno though. Matt from ZZP didn't understand why, but on the street he didn't get any knock. I had mine dyno tuned by zzp originally but now its tuned by James.

Speed_Thrills

iTrader: (5)

There's been quite a few threads about James turning off knock readings in his tunes. Don't know the truth to it, but it's been said quite a few times.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I get phantom knock every once and while. Found out on a recent log to figure it out it seems to be cylinder 3 for me, only full load and only 3 degrees. Goes from 0 to 3 so its phantom. Just need to spend more time chasing down the cause of the phantom knock on mine. I would assume a canned tune would be a safe distance from causing knock

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

That's what I thought as well. Canned tunes are conservative, so I didn't expect any knock. So it might not even be real? Also I've noticed this only happens when it's warmer out and intake temps above 80-85 degrees and gets worse if I get heat soaked in traffic.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Thought I'd share this decent cell phone pic that isn't a picture of catastrophic damage. Let's hope all goes well Tuesday! She'll be in capable hands.

ctn2mb

iTrader: (2)

I've checked each change he's made in the tune... he hasn't turned anything off related to that. The way he logs knock readings is different then most but I've used my own configuration and ZZP's and the knock readings are good.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Any guesses on final numbers? Will be 91 octane and tuned by PWerks. 2000 miles on the LDK crate motor, stock turbo, k&n, ZZP ic kit, catless DP, GMPP clutch, 3 bar maps.

QuickSilver_SS

330whp & 365wtrq

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

350whp 350wtq

We going closest numbers win the internets?

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

332 whp 385 wtq

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Those all seem high but I'd be plenty happy! I'm going to guess conservatively. 300/350.

TCBalt09

iTrader: (2)

Those seem reasonable. The others seem aggressive to me. Would be ashamed to put out mid 300s and bend a rod or spin a bearing.

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

I guess its how crazy you want them to get with your tune but I know I have seen guys with just a sri and dp with an HP tune hit 300 easy! With the ldk being stronger and slightly higher compression ratio I bet you could see 350+ with everything else.

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

Piston3 how did you get these off? Hoses going from the block to the heater core in the cabin? They are like glued to the block there. Should I cut them and just get new hoses? What size are they if I do have to cut them?

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

I don't have an answer for that. My brother did a large majority of the work though. I don't recall us having any issues with those or having to cut them. Someone put some kind of sealant on yours?

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

I must have panzie hands or something I tried pulling and pulling then my dad came over I asked him his thoughts and he had them off in 2 min without cutting them. He just used channel locks and twisted them off. Oh well I drop my cradle tomorrow after work.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Happens all the time. I'm usually afraid of breaking things so I often am not aggressive enough. One time I ruined a $3000 dash panel in a Lexus SC while replacing the radio and being a bit rough with it. I stripped an oil pan once too and my boss bought me a super short 17mm lol. I'm pretty careful these days.

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

Get a pick in there the losen it off. Or you could just cut it and buy new ones.

The exhaust usually bakes them on.

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

Can you ask your brother the easiest way to remove the hydraulic clutch system fitting on the top of the trans close to the front of the engine bay? That is about the only thing I have remaining along with the shifter cable end links. I wish i had a pic of it. Its basically right under the fuse box runs up to the steering column, It has to be the transmission fitting thats the only thing i can think of.

Does anyone know if its the same way the SS/SC book says to remove it?

Also the tie rods on these things are the dumbest thing ever. that 17mm inside bolt strips immediately I had to use vice grips to get it to keep from spinning.

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

I've never had any issues.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

You pull off the clip and pull it out. Cap the line with a rubber cap so you don't loose a bunch of fluid. And to get the block off you pull the other clip and lift it. It's not hard. they are really basic things.

The tie rods should be 18mm unless your talking about the little square drive on top. An impact brakes those bolts loose really easy.