Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I'm more interested now in other areas of the car. Like upgrading the little stereo that almost could but didn't and fell on its face.

Thank you for your input everyone. Booking a dyno tune very soon. Then it's time for spinning chrome wheels and a shopping cart wing.

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

Meant to ask a while ago, What exactly is that?

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

It's a snap on tool for putting on and taking off hose clamps. Makes taking lines off the turbo, and everything else a joke. Reaches right back there. Just position and squeeze.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

Engine went in my car, got an LDK on the way with ZFR.

Valve dropped in cylinder four.
Took it to the dealer twice for miss fires and they told me nothing was wrong keep driving it.
Then engine gone...
GM won't do crap about it. 84000km on it...
Way to stand by your product and service...

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

They are unhelpful and their techs know **** about these cars. The oil change boy put my sleeves in. 24 hours on a 12.5 hour job over 3 weeks...You're much better off now.

Oh also the tech line guys said 26 psi is normal for GMS1.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

So I was seeing up to 6 degrees of knock retard today in traffic at part throttle with light boost. Had some heat soak and intake temps were around 110-116. Is this normal? The only thing I've changed is going from 91 octane to 93 octane fuel from a different station so I'm completely confused. It was bucking a bit too and not from driver mod...

WOT was normal at 1-3 degrees of KR and it all seemed to clear up after hitting the interstate and cooling off to 85 degree intake temps.

Just a bit concerned since it's not even summer yet. Hopefully this can all be addressed when I get tuned.

cfsnipers

Ma and Pa gas station or a proper gas station like Shell?

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

I stopped at Murphy USA it's in front of a Wal-Mart and half the time the pumps are full.

cfsnipers

Could be bad gas bro. I don't know. Never seen that kind of knock retard in my car ever. No matter how hot it got.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Could it be the extra bit of compression from the LDK? Otherwise I'm blaming the gas.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Will be tuned in two weeks.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

HELP!!!

So got this email from my mechanic:


The map sensors between your old engine and your new engine are not the same, the electrical connector from your engine harness will not plug into the new sensor supplied with the engine and the old sensor from your old engine will not fit into the new manifold as the sensor is too big for the hole. Wondering if you have an electrical connector or do we have to swap the whole manifold over?

Anyone else run into this???

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

I may be wrong but I think piston3 just swapped over manifolds, I heard it was the wrong size and the bolt to hold it down wasn't centered on the hole. I planned to just swap over my LNF manifold. also its painted and I want to reuse it.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Yes. We swapped the LNF manifold onto my LDK. Works just fine.

nutty21

iTrader: (1)

ZPP say:

You can run your sensor in the new manifold if you change the o-ring and remove the steel sleeve.

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

Or you can just swap over the intake manifold which is super simple to do, especially with the engine out. More of a difficult if you have to do it in the car like I did to paint it.

Just saying the intake mani is one of the simplest things to remove and swap.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Took all of two minutes including swapping the new throttle body on.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Ok so this is odd I guess? Have about 1500 miles on the new engine now and it seems to have picked up a bit. Screeching the tires quite a bit through 2nd if I'm on it.

I've heard of new motors not making their peak potential until 1500-2000 miles. Fact or fiction?

Also...10 days until dyno tune.

cfsnipers

100% fact. Things are still seating. Might not see full power til 2500 miles.

ctn2mb

iTrader: (2)

I'll tell you my LDK has 0 knock....... and I have the LDK manifold with GMS1 sensors.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

Light throttle knock was back tonight. 1-2 degrees. Along with "no data available" on the RPD for A/F ratio. Pulled into a parking lot, shut it off, waited a minute, then drove away. It was working again by the time I got to the stoplight. Should I just get a sensor now? I can't be having an issue like this a week away from getting tuned.

ctn2mb

iTrader: (2)

that no data available your having is usually that top map sensor. I would buy the gms1 sensors.

cfsnipers

You'll definitely want the 3 bar map sensors before u get tuned. You can't install them until you are in the dyno shop ready to go though.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

you can if you have a really short drive.... passed that i wouldnt do it.... the plug and play connectors kind of suck too so i dont recommend them.

Piston3

iTrader: (2)

I already have 3 bar maps from the GMS1. All other data was reading fine. Just no A/F at the time. No problems cruising around today and no knock. I know I was in a bind during install and had to use a brown AC seal on my top map sensor but it was an exact match to the one that ripped coming off. Also my sensors are not plug n play and the wiring looks to be solid work.