Does anyone have the procedures for removing/reinstalling the rear brake pads on the 08-09 SS/TC?

 

the dealers are fixing them under warranty AKA FREE!

 

With the same defective rear pad material? I've dealt with dealerships in the past and they'll try anything to avoid replacing parts claiming it is normal, or I abused it, or some other BS.

If it's not too involved, I can just swap in Hawk HPS pads or some other brand that won't chew up the rotors as soon as I take delivery of the car.

 

I've inspected my brakes every 4,000 miles and I'm at 12K now, and I have yet to see premature wear on either front or rear pads, inner or outer pad. I've even had 100 miles of road course use and they still look like they're new. Maybe I'm lucky, but I have no qualms or complaints about the factory pads.

 

What model year SS/TC do you have?

 

Silver Coupe 2008 Manufactured in July of 2008

 

search the threads i have made.. i did a write up a little while back without pics thats why no one leg humped over it but if you follow the directions you will be fine.... my rear brakes work well coming down from 130

 

Hey, you're from Bergen County. My old stomping grounds!

I found your thread:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/attn-all-tc-brembo-diy-brakes-160255/

It really belongs in the How-To Forum, but thanks nonetheless! That clears up a lot of questions I had, like how we really have an e-brake (service brakes) and not the drum within a rotor thing.

What rear pads did you buy?

 

Biggest issue is you cannot compress the rear calipers all the way in with a c-clamp. The pistons have to rotate in. You will see two depressions in the piston face for a tool. Us old school fossils had to learn this.
You can compress them about a millimeter to get them off the rotor though.

 

Yep, I am familiar with that type of caliper. They used them in the 70s and 80s as well. There's a $10 tool you can use but I heard ppl had great success with needle nosed pliers.

 

EBC red stuff for a 2008 saab 9-3 2.0T

and needle nose pliers do not work well... i know from experience, just buy the tool

 

I found the $10 piston tool - the one you use a socket/extension bar to turn. Do you know if that would work in lieu of the full kit?



How are the EBC Red Stuff pads? Are they wearing more evenly?

 

I'm not very pleased with the EBC redstuff pads after a few thousand miles. Rotors are getting grooved like the stock pads did and they squeal & howl at low speeds. Stopping power is excellent though, just too noisy for me.

I have a set of Hawk HPS rear pads on order to try.

Here's the tool I bought for the caliper on Ebay for $6.99 KD Tools #3355 Brake piston tool for GM & Ford 1 7/8" & 2 1/8" calipers.

 

I agree the red stuff are just ok, when i do change, i will be looking into ferrodo pads or how ever you spell their name.

 

I took my car in for the rear brake issue because they were girnding and I was told it was going to be $180+ to get my rotors TURNED and pads replaced, I was told i had to pay for the pads since they quit covering them at 12,000 miles and I'm at 16,000 miles. I told them I wanted the rotors replaced and they said they werent covered. Come to find out after I call and bitch to GM about it OHHHHH now the rotors are covered under my bumper-to-bumper warranty....

My dealer(s)/GM isnt doing **** for me! infact they told me that if I replaced my rotors or resurfaced them myself they will void my "rotor warranty". Hmm that seems funny, doesnt even look like my car has anything for a warranty. All the dealers around me are scam shops. Needless to say my rear "rotor warranty" is void now.