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My 09 SS Sedan just had the same fuel line leak. In front of the rear tire at the clamp. Worth noting for those who smell fuel. Mine was easy to find. It left a puddle on the ground.
My 09 SS Sedan just had the same fuel line leak. In front of the rear tire at the clamp. Worth noting for those who smell fuel. Mine was easy to find. It left a puddle on the ground.
yup. I smelled fuel. Took it out for a test drive, small distances from home, about 45 seconds sitting at a stop light and I smelled fuel, didn't think much of it. Then when I got home and saw the puddle of rainbow on the ground near the rear tire I knew that's what it was. Back in the garage and saw it was leaking from inside the heat shielding. Ripped it out in 4 pieces and put the new one in and it's been good since. EVAP looked okay, rusty, but didn't leak.
changed the oil at 500 miles. currently at 700 miles. I've been edging into boost, I shouldn't be but I want boost again.
LTFT is about -14%, STFT bounces all over. I didn't know until I had Knock Retard monitoring on my interceptor, but it shows KR when it's in boost, so I'm REALLY trying to stay out of it as best as I can now and looking for HPT MPVI 1.0. It's in full on winter mode so I'm not doing any WOT pulls for a tune.
you checked for boost leaks? with that LTFT being that high i'd check just to make sure. if not, could be winter temp comps.
I’m 99% sure it’s because I am running a GMS1 tune (which is set up for stock injectors) but the LDK has opels. Quick injector coefficient change should clear most of it up. I haven’t checked for boost leaks. I haven’t tuned yet because 1) no hptuners 2) wanted to break the motor in before tuning (WOT pulls on new motor doesn’t sound good)
The only thing babying an engine does is give you shitty ring seal. My car went straight to the dyno after the first heat cycle oil change and was over 30psi by the 5th pull.
I know its not the same engine, but when I built my Subaru engine. I only did 50 miles of babying it. I did a bunch of engine braking to help seat the rings, then after 100 miles I was full boost.
The only thing babying an engine does is give you shitty ring seal. My car went straight to the dyno after the first heat cycle oil change and was over 30psi by the 5th pull.
I don't have HPTuners, or else I'd have someone fix the real bad fuel trims. I've been revving to 6k every time I drive it now, just get there slowly. Rings seal fine, just hasn't seen PE yet because KR exists in low boost, so I haven't hit full throttle.
Also, if I didn't baby, I wouldn't have seen the fuel line leaking. Everyone has their own preferences I guess. Broke in with Comp Cams 10W-30 I wanted to get my $50 worth out of the oil.
I don't have HPTuners, or else I'd have someone fix the real bad fuel trims. I've been revving to 6k every time I drive it now, just get there slowly. Rings seal fine, just hasn't seen PE yet because KR exists in low boost, so I haven't hit full throttle.
Also, if I didn't baby, I wouldn't have seen the fuel line leaking. Everyone has their own preferences I guess. Broke in with Comp Cams 10W-30 I wanted to get my $50 worth out of the oil.
what all has changed vs what the tune is set up for?
what all has changed vs what the tune is set up for?
old tune was GMS1 copied pasted via HPTuners on stock LNF. I replaced with crate LDK (opels) and wanted to break in before tuning. Still zzp intake tube, stock box, zzp upper, lower, and ic. Only thing that was questionable about install was 3bar into the intake manifold; black o ring wouldn’t fit so I put the green o ring on from the sensor it came with.
Tune in progress! Picked up HPTuners from ZZP ebay store when ebay had a sale. Currently on the 8th tune (going slow, dialing one thing at a time). 9th tune in my email waiting for log (which I'll do tomorrow). Only thing that sucks is the sedan is in winter mode, with unbalanced and previously bent (straightened in house) wheels and snow tires so doing pulls past 60mph is sketchy. 2nd gear tune for now till summer where I can do 3rd gear pulls safely.
Well, trans finally started to let go. Got real whiny. Tried adding fluid but no go. Still whines like hell. Parked it late July and have been driving my miata since.
So I picked up a B3 budget build; crush sleeve delete, 3rd gear alignment, case hardware upgrade, brace hardware upgrade, 4.05 LSD. 0 mile gearset.
It’s beautiful. I can’t wait to throw it in. Some pictures for those who haven’t seen it.
Nice ride. So, what what kind of times you pulling now? I will ride and improve on mine till she no longer functions. Not worth letting go on book values.😉
Nice ride. So, what what kind of times you pulling now? I will ride and improve on mine till she no longer functions. Not worth letting go on book values.😉
times? never been to the drag strip. not that kinda car. definitely not after the new trans goes in that should have happened on the old trans 😂
clutch started slipping a few weeks after putting the trans in. Did the clutch back in 2017 along with axles. Everything was new. Flywheel, bolts, stock LNF clutch, tob (has a new one now, did with the trans).
Going GMPP like I should have the first time. Got the whole combo, flywheel bolts, LSJ clutch upgrade kit, and flywheel from ZZP on Black Friday and the following Saturday (today?) for $488.
not really looking forward to pulling the trans again. Oh well there’s not much of a choice
clutch started slipping a few weeks after putting the trans in. Did the clutch back in 2017 along with axles. Everything was new. Flywheel, bolts, stock LNF clutch, tob (has a new one now, did with the trans).
Going GMPP like I should have the first time. Got the whole combo, flywheel bolts, LSJ clutch upgrade kit, and flywheel from ZZP on Black Friday and the following Saturday (today?) for $488.
not really looking forward to pulling the trans again. Oh well there’s not much of a choice
What about the hydraulics, aside from the TOB? I'd highly recommend replacing the clutch master and replacing the factory line with an ottp solid. Best of luck man!
So after all this, I replace the clutch with a GMPP and ZZP flywheel over winter break. Got the whole thing done in a weekend as usual. But oddly, the car doesn't start afterwards.
Didn't touch ground wires, starter works when jumped, voltage getting where it should be. grounding a pin on the relay seems to do the trick. so i solder a wire to the relay and stuff it in and hook it up to ground. drive it for a week and get a new (used) LNF fuse box. replace it. no go. still messed up. no start. went to put my old box back in, and the soldered wire caught fire and essentially smoked all the insulation. no start.
parked it in the back of the driveway and leased a 2020 corolla SE. this car has been nothing but headaches and this was one I couldn't solve easily. so on the backburner it goes. hopefully I can find a harness and find the real problem when it's warmer out.
11-08-2018, 03:46 PM
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