Wiseco pistons installed
#1
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Wiseco pistons installed
I was just wondering how much on average it would cost to get a set of wiseco pistons installed. i know people will have a varying range of prices but i was just looking for a ballpark figure. I know the pistons are like $550 but i wanna know how much labor is
#6
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I would expect a shop to charge something on the order of 16-18hrs of labor. 17x90=$1530
Basic tools? a lot of guys here dont even know what a torque wrench is for..... let alone have a torque angle indicator, And now swapping pistons isnt hard?
This is one of those things where if you have to ask your probably not ready to do it.
But again the OP was asking about costs, Id be incredibly suprised if you could get it done by a shop for less than $1000
This is one of those things where if you have to ask your probably not ready to do it.
But again the OP was asking about costs, Id be incredibly suprised if you could get it done by a shop for less than $1000
Last edited by Maven; 01-16-2010 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#7
^^^^agreed. and yeah i agree half the guys on here dont know what a torque wrench is. im sure some cant even put a socket on a socket wrench for all i know. i guess for me its not all to bad but ive been around engines and what not my entire life so after years of doing it it just seems natural to me now.
#12
Senior Member
I would expect a shop to charge something on the order of 16-18hrs of labor. 17x90=$1530
Basic tools? a lot of guys here dont even know what a torque wrench is for..... let alone have a torque angle indicator, And now swapping pistons isnt hard?
This is one of those things where if you have to ask your probably not ready to do it.
But again the OP was asking about costs, Id be incredibly suprised if you could get it done by a shop for less than $1000
Basic tools? a lot of guys here dont even know what a torque wrench is for..... let alone have a torque angle indicator, And now swapping pistons isnt hard?
This is one of those things where if you have to ask your probably not ready to do it.
But again the OP was asking about costs, Id be incredibly suprised if you could get it done by a shop for less than $1000
My best insight on doing anything with a highly engineered engine of today is to start off small , do like a SOHC or 4 cyl honda or something of that nature , something with a throttle body or Carb on it like a 350 or if you plan on splitting the engine from a FWD vs A RWD it is an entirely different animal , so much to keep tack of , Tq specs on each bolt how to tighten each bolt in a pattern etc.
#13
the best bit of advice is for something this nature......if you dont know what your doing dont do it before you screw something up and you spell trouble for yourself.
#15
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If you really feel compelled to do something like this, buy a POS car for around $500. Take out the engine, rip it completly apart and then put it back to together again according to factory specs. If you can put it back together and have it running well in the orginal car, then you can possibly consider doing this yourself for an LNF.
It should run you around 1500 to have a shop do this, but if you try it yourself and mess something up then expect to pay a whole lot more.
#16
$1500!???! For installing pistons? Dear god. Maybe $500 if the shop has the proper machine equipment and experience with the car. $1000 at most for a car that they've never worked on before. Hell for $1500 I'll give you new rod and main bearings, flywheel bolts, rod bolts, girdle bolts, head gasket, head studs, check/deck the head, check/deck the block, hone/bore the sleeves, check the front and rear seals, new coolant, new oil, new tranny fluid. Take me maybe 3 days turn around, 2 if my machine shop isn't backed up.
#20
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$1500!???! For installing pistons? Dear god. Maybe $500 if the shop has the proper machine equipment and experience with the car. $1000 at most for a car that they've never worked on before. Hell for $1500 I'll give you new rod and main bearings, flywheel bolts, rod bolts, girdle bolts, head gasket, head studs, check/deck the head, check/deck the block, hone/bore the sleeves, check the front and rear seals, new coolant, new oil, new tranny fluid. Take me maybe 3 days turn around, 2 if my machine shop isn't backed up.
And your so quick to offer all the things youd do for $1500 and a 2day time line.
Thats great but its misleading and not helpful. First of all 2 days is all it would take at any good shop, the only reason it seems impressive from you is because youve added the (unneeded) steps of competely removing the engine and crank shaft, and then the machining operatios on the deck/head. Any good shop is going to check the block and head before assembly so thats common, but decking is likely highly unnecessary.
You are installing new rod and main bearings....this isnt need unless wear is noticed. Also goes back to the unneeded step of taking out crank and entire engine.
Headgasket, head studs(or bolts), rod bolts....all these things are required when doing the job, I know youre including them in the price but I want people who werent sure to know that youll get these items from anyone who does the work. Same with the flywheels bolts, they arent reusable and since youre taking out the crank they are required but again, not a necessary step to replace pistons
SO lets get back to the money side of your awesome deal compared to my more realistic (if worst case) scenarios.
Youre providing: (I went conservative on the parts)
~ 16hours of labor(I would wager more time than that)
~ $400 worth of bearings
~ $75 head gasket
~ $125 head studs
~ $50 rod bolts
~ $100 main bolts
~ $50 flywheel bolts
~ $30 oil
~ $20 coolant
~ $25 trans fluid
All for $1500.....
So two solid days of work, machine shop use and ~$875 worth of parts.... That means youre doing the work for AT MOST $39/hr.......Okay, whatever works for you, prices like that youll put everybody out of business, or have people questioning why youre so cheap. I dont and wouldnt work that cheap.
A good deal for sure but lots of unecessary work, an taking apart things that already work. Its also one of those things that falls into the "if it seems too good to be true" category. Youre half the price of a "normal" shop, where are all these savings being made? Lack of experience, lack of tools or service information, lack of a proper facility to perform the work(IE working in the backyard or a dirt floored pole barn), lack of pride in work and completed product IE lots of shortcuts and/or not performing all the steps claimed.
These are things you need to look at when choosing any person/shop to work on your vehicle. Everyone sets a price based on many factors, if you know what those factors are you can better choose the proper shop. Its often not the cheapest one. But maybe it is the one in WV. who knows.
#21
Thanks for the imput Maven. That helps me make sure I'm not forgetting anything on my "wish list".
I've heard from a friend familiar with LS1s that ARP head studs and cosmetic head gaskets are reuseable, since the head studs for instance are not torqued-to-yield like the stock ones. Is this true, true for maybe just them, or is my friend mistaken?
If it's true, then they could easily pay for themselves if you have to take the head off again.
I've heard from a friend familiar with LS1s that ARP head studs and cosmetic head gaskets are reuseable, since the head studs for instance are not torqued-to-yield like the stock ones. Is this true, true for maybe just them, or is my friend mistaken?
If it's true, then they could easily pay for themselves if you have to take the head off again.
#22
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the imput Maven. That helps me make sure I'm not forgetting anything on my "wish list".
I've heard from a friend familiar with LS1s that ARP head studs and cosmetic head gaskets are reuseable, since the head studs for instance are not torqued-to-yield like the stock ones. Is this true, true for maybe just them, or is my friend mistaken?
If it's true, then they could easily pay for themselves if you have to take the head off again.
I've heard from a friend familiar with LS1s that ARP head studs and cosmetic head gaskets are reuseable, since the head studs for instance are not torqued-to-yield like the stock ones. Is this true, true for maybe just them, or is my friend mistaken?
If it's true, then they could easily pay for themselves if you have to take the head off again.
Ive heard lots of people reusing MLS style gasket since they "dont compress" I have 3 problems with this:
A:They DO compress, look at a metal gasket, they arent all flat, if they have embossed ridges they shouldnt be reused
2: They have a sealing coating on them. That blakc/grey/red(depending on brand) plasticy or paint looking stuff on the gasket isnt to make it look cool, its a sealing agent, when you take the gasket off some stick to the block and head, therefore its not doing its job anymore. not reusable imo.
D: A quality gasket is $80. Dont f*ck about with it.
#23
Premium Member
iTrader: (82)
GM time on the job 15hrs, almost every shop out there is gonna want more than GM warranty time to do it.
And your so quick to offer all the things youd do for $1500 and a 2day time line.
Thats great but its misleading and not helpful. First of all 2 days is all it would take at any good shop, the only reason it seems impressive from you is because youve added the (unneeded) steps of competely removing the engine and crank shaft, and then the machining operatios on the deck/head. Any good shop is going to check the block and head before assembly so thats common, but decking is likely highly unnecessary.
You are installing new rod and main bearings....this isnt need unless wear is noticed. Also goes back to the unneeded step of taking out crank and entire engine.
Headgasket, head studs(or bolts), rod bolts....all these things are required when doing the job, I know youre including them in the price but I want people who werent sure to know that youll get these items from anyone who does the work. Same with the flywheels bolts, they arent reusable and since youre taking out the crank they are required but again, not a necessary step to replace pistons
SO lets get back to the money side of your awesome deal compared to my more realistic (if worst case) scenarios.
Youre providing: (I went conservative on the parts)
~ 16hours of labor(I would wager more time than that)
~ $400 worth of bearings
~ $75 head gasket
~ $125 head studs
~ $50 rod bolts
~ $100 main bolts
~ $50 flywheel bolts
~ $30 oil
~ $20 coolant
~ $25 trans fluid
All for $1500.....
So two solid days of work, machine shop use and ~$875 worth of parts.... That means youre doing the work for AT MOST $39/hr.......Okay, whatever works for you, prices like that youll put everybody out of business, or have people questioning why youre so cheap. I dont and wouldnt work that cheap.
A good deal for sure but lots of unecessary work, an taking apart things that already work. Its also one of those things that falls into the "if it seems too good to be true" category. Youre half the price of a "normal" shop, where are all these savings being made? Lack of experience, lack of tools or service information, lack of a proper facility to perform the work(IE working in the backyard or a dirt floored pole barn), lack of pride in work and completed product IE lots of shortcuts and/or not performing all the steps claimed.
These are things you need to look at when choosing any person/shop to work on your vehicle. Everyone sets a price based on many factors, if you know what those factors are you can better choose the proper shop. Its often not the cheapest one. But maybe it is the one in WV. who knows.
And your so quick to offer all the things youd do for $1500 and a 2day time line.
Thats great but its misleading and not helpful. First of all 2 days is all it would take at any good shop, the only reason it seems impressive from you is because youve added the (unneeded) steps of competely removing the engine and crank shaft, and then the machining operatios on the deck/head. Any good shop is going to check the block and head before assembly so thats common, but decking is likely highly unnecessary.
You are installing new rod and main bearings....this isnt need unless wear is noticed. Also goes back to the unneeded step of taking out crank and entire engine.
Headgasket, head studs(or bolts), rod bolts....all these things are required when doing the job, I know youre including them in the price but I want people who werent sure to know that youll get these items from anyone who does the work. Same with the flywheels bolts, they arent reusable and since youre taking out the crank they are required but again, not a necessary step to replace pistons
SO lets get back to the money side of your awesome deal compared to my more realistic (if worst case) scenarios.
Youre providing: (I went conservative on the parts)
~ 16hours of labor(I would wager more time than that)
~ $400 worth of bearings
~ $75 head gasket
~ $125 head studs
~ $50 rod bolts
~ $100 main bolts
~ $50 flywheel bolts
~ $30 oil
~ $20 coolant
~ $25 trans fluid
All for $1500.....
So two solid days of work, machine shop use and ~$875 worth of parts.... That means youre doing the work for AT MOST $39/hr.......Okay, whatever works for you, prices like that youll put everybody out of business, or have people questioning why youre so cheap. I dont and wouldnt work that cheap.
A good deal for sure but lots of unecessary work, an taking apart things that already work. Its also one of those things that falls into the "if it seems too good to be true" category. Youre half the price of a "normal" shop, where are all these savings being made? Lack of experience, lack of tools or service information, lack of a proper facility to perform the work(IE working in the backyard or a dirt floored pole barn), lack of pride in work and completed product IE lots of shortcuts and/or not performing all the steps claimed.
These are things you need to look at when choosing any person/shop to work on your vehicle. Everyone sets a price based on many factors, if you know what those factors are you can better choose the proper shop. Its often not the cheapest one. But maybe it is the one in WV. who knows.
#24
Many aftermarket fasteners are reusable, unlike the stock ones.
Ive heard lots of people reusing MLS style gasket since they "dont compress" I have 3 problems with this:
A:They DO compress, look at a metal gasket, they arent all flat, if they have embossed ridges they shouldnt be reused
2: They have a sealing coating on them. That blakc/grey/red(depending on brand) plasticy or paint looking stuff on the gasket isnt to make it look cool, its a sealing agent, when you take the gasket off some stick to the block and head, therefore its not doing its job anymore. not reusable imo.
D: A quality gasket is $80. Dont f*ck about with it.
Ive heard lots of people reusing MLS style gasket since they "dont compress" I have 3 problems with this:
A:They DO compress, look at a metal gasket, they arent all flat, if they have embossed ridges they shouldnt be reused
2: They have a sealing coating on them. That blakc/grey/red(depending on brand) plasticy or paint looking stuff on the gasket isnt to make it look cool, its a sealing agent, when you take the gasket off some stick to the block and head, therefore its not doing its job anymore. not reusable imo.
D: A quality gasket is $80. Dont f*ck about with it.