0-60 and 1/4 mile times with gms1
^^^
My Bridgestone A/S's feel like they'll grab better than the Conti's so ? When I ran I avoided LC as well and left at around 2k-I may try the punch it and go approach with the GMS1. At that time I was short shifting the 1-2 as running out 1st would invariably cause a blown shift(a linkage issue has since been resolved); NLS to 3rd @ 6k and thru traps in same.
With a 60' like that things would interesting indeed-just waiting for spring!
My Bridgestone A/S's feel like they'll grab better than the Conti's so ? When I ran I avoided LC as well and left at around 2k-I may try the punch it and go approach with the GMS1. At that time I was short shifting the 1-2 as running out 1st would invariably cause a blown shift(a linkage issue has since been resolved); NLS to 3rd @ 6k and thru traps in same.
I managed a 2.07-2.09 60ft time only a few times when stock. Track prep, DA, and driver plays a huge role in a cars ET. They say for every tenth off the 60ft time it's 1.5x that at the finish line and I believe it. Every time I had a better 60ft the elapsed time went down and the mph went up.
Your car has the mph for mid 13s on street tires you just need some more seat time. Where you have only ran 4 times I was down the track over 20 times when stock. It takes time to find out what works and what doesn't.
I don't know about 0-60 but I'd say a typical time for a Stage 1 SS/TC should be mid 13s at 104-107 depending on the DA. More power doesn't always equal faster 1/4 mile times.
Your car has the mph for mid 13s on street tires you just need some more seat time. Where you have only ran 4 times I was down the track over 20 times when stock. It takes time to find out what works and what doesn't.
I don't know about 0-60 but I'd say a typical time for a Stage 1 SS/TC should be mid 13s at 104-107 depending on the DA. More power doesn't always equal faster 1/4 mile times.
Last edited by FRQ FLYR; Feb 14, 2010 at 11:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well i can tell you from experience that the GMS1 delivers better times. took it to the track friday night and ran 11 times. used the first 5 or 6 runs to really figure out how to launch to make power, but right now im running on my all seasons, so launching and hooking up was hard to do (my best 60' friday was 2.3, best stock 2.00) because of cold weather (31 degrees). one other problem was that i wasnt boosting up fully. in good conditions it will hold 22 psi on the GMS1, but due to the weather it was only holding 20. either way I ran a 13.6 four times in a row at the end of the night. so with improvements in tires coming in the summer and better weather i should be looking at 13.1ish. oh and my trap speed was 108, but im sure that will go up too.
what's the altitude in oklahoma? that could be some of the reason your boost isn't as high...i'm almost at sea level, so i get max boost all the time if the weather cooperates. my trap speeds should be about 110 when all is said and done hopefully. i need an oil change and i also have to give my drop in K&N a good cleaning, these are little things but will all help it run smooth and all that. If all of the people that claim that for every tenth you drop off your 60' you drop 1.5x as much in your ET, just by getting my 60' down to what i was running stock ill be running around 13.3. (and from my experience racing the one tenth=1.5x is pretty accurate).
mid 13's with slicks .. would be a horrible time. In my opinion. It's been proven that people are capable of mid to high 13's in stock form. Low 13's is closer to what you could expect. Possibly high 12's.. dependant on what other mods. I'm actually trying to buy Cmiller's slicks atm. He has not responded to my PM's, but ASAP ill buy them. Do a search on slicks or drag tires. There have been many posts. It seems that people like to keep things like that hush hush.. or else they dont want to give a direct answer if they do know what will work and what wont. DR's.. MT ET Streets i think is what type they are. In a 245 40 18 has been proven to work. I think the slicks CM used are 17". He had to use spacers for a better offset, but will work. Was like a 26" slick i think... perhaps a bit shorter, but im not completely sure. Look into MT slicks... measure your tire's hight and width.. go from there and possibly call support?? Let us all know what you find out. Best hunting!!
yeah I feel that high 12's are attainable on drag radials...especially considering my experience at the track last friday...idk about with just the GMS1, because I'm running the S1 and a catless downpipe, and I ran 13.6 four times on my all seasons with a terrible 60' (2.3)...so with just a better 60' and some better weather on street tires most people are probably looking at running consistent mid 13's, i would say 13.4 and up pretty easily on summer tires.
I'm getting mine installed next week, dealer is a little expensive but there's a peace of mind type thing ripping through the gears and knowing you have a warranty. Hopefully I can post up some good times for the gms1 guys.
That is normal I would not call it reasonable though. IMHO it should be only $100 as it is not that much work. Flashing the tune takes as long as installing the sensors. Unless you have a copy of the stage tune saved in your computer and the ability to flash it. I needs me some 3 bar maps. I am going to stage tune my car myself.
me and my frindes put the maps on and the dealer tuned it for $85 it was real easy but the other day i put on the intercooler piping and we had hell with the t-bar map we had to drill out the hole so it would fit and turn it side ways so it woldnt hit the a/c compresser
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