303 WHP 325 Ft Lbs ---What Clutch ?
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
303 WHP 325 Ft Lbs ---What Clutch ?
Hi guys.
Had my 2010 Cobalt SS with 69,000 miles custom tuned on the Dyno. Got 303 HP & 325 Ft Lbs at the wheels. Only owned car about 3 months. Original clutch doesn't seem to like it. Can smell clutch after I drive it hard at all. Also it will slip in 5th gear now if I hit boost at all.
I've been told the tune didn't cause the issue, just exposed a pre-existing issue with the clutch.
Anyway, would a New stock clutch kit handle these power numbers no problem ? ...or do I have to upgrade ?? This is my daily driver so don't wanna lose it's good street manners.
Thanks for any help.
Had my 2010 Cobalt SS with 69,000 miles custom tuned on the Dyno. Got 303 HP & 325 Ft Lbs at the wheels. Only owned car about 3 months. Original clutch doesn't seem to like it. Can smell clutch after I drive it hard at all. Also it will slip in 5th gear now if I hit boost at all.
I've been told the tune didn't cause the issue, just exposed a pre-existing issue with the clutch.
Anyway, would a New stock clutch kit handle these power numbers no problem ? ...or do I have to upgrade ?? This is my daily driver so don't wanna lose it's good street manners.
Thanks for any help.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
ZZP did the Dynotune just over a week ago. Car has CAI, upper charge pipe, ZZP intercooler and high flow catted downpipe. It's my daily driver and I quarter mile track it maybe 3 or 4 times a year.
Would the low torque possibly be because clutch was starting to fail then ? ......or maybe they kept it low because of the stock clutch ??
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
The lsj upgrade clutch is an upgrade over an lnf clutch for sure! I have been running the lsj upgrade clutch for almost 80k miles! Tuned on e47 every summer and daily driven! It has yet to slip on me but then again I don't romp on it from say 40mph in 4th gear lol.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
The lsj upgrade clutch is an upgrade over an lnf clutch for sure! I have been running the lsj upgrade clutch for almost 80k miles! Tuned on e47 every summer and daily driven! It has yet to slip on me but then again I don't romp on it from say 40mph in 4th gear lol.
So is it best to just put a new flywheel on as opposed to resurfacing the original ?
And new bolts on the flywheel ??
Thanks.
#6
Senior Member
Don't bother resurfacing the flywheel.
#7
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Thread Starter
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
Just like tdubbs said. Get a new LUK flywheel or go with an lsj flywheel. Buy brand new, don't resurface your stock one.
#9
Senior Member
I do, I have that exact combo. Currently holding up to the beating from a Z54 turbo. How long it'll last with the bigger turbo is still debate, but for your setup it should last a long time.
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I ran my stock clutch for several years on stock turbo and full E85, making 359/418, including road track.
Clutch still looked perfect when it came out at ~42K miles (upgraded to CM Stage 4 when going big turbo).
Key is not to go WOT under 3,000rpm. I should add I also never do digs.
Having said that, if you're replacing the clutch anyways, I would definitely upgrade it.
Clutch still looked perfect when it came out at ~42K miles (upgraded to CM Stage 4 when going big turbo).
Key is not to go WOT under 3,000rpm. I should add I also never do digs.
Having said that, if you're replacing the clutch anyways, I would definitely upgrade it.
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I ran my stock clutch for several years on stock turbo and full E85, making 359/418, including road track.
Clutch still looked perfect when it came out at ~42K miles (upgraded to CM Stage 4 when going big turbo).
Key is not to go WOT under 3,000rpm. I should add I also never do digs.
Having said that, if you're replacing the clutch anyways, I would definitely upgrade it.
Clutch still looked perfect when it came out at ~42K miles (upgraded to CM Stage 4 when going big turbo).
Key is not to go WOT under 3,000rpm. I should add I also never do digs.
Having said that, if you're replacing the clutch anyways, I would definitely upgrade it.
#14
My stock clutch with a 150K miles finally starting giving way when I went from GMS1 to self tuned on HPT (23-24psi tune on 93oct). I went GMPP with the ZZP flywheel, new bolts, GM factory hydraulic throwout bearing, and from reading on here I also replaced the clutch pipe and elbow that are inside the bell housing for insurance (not expensive if you are already in there and definitely don't want to pay labor just for those parts later down the road).
7K miles on the clutch and love it. Drives like stock but holds the quick torque ramp that I have in my tune.
edit: I am stock turbo with ZZP IC and upper charge pipe (only because the stockers blew up after a few months!).
7K miles on the clutch and love it. Drives like stock but holds the quick torque ramp that I have in my tune.
edit: I am stock turbo with ZZP IC and upper charge pipe (only because the stockers blew up after a few months!).
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
Nope, I'm all done with horsepower/torque upgrades, 300/325 is enough for an old dog like myself. Once the clutch is done, just going to focus on some straight line traction (tires, etc). Thanks.
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
My stock clutch with a 150K miles finally starting giving way when I went from GMS1 to self tuned on HPT (23-24psi tune on 93oct). I went GMPP with the ZZP flywheel, new bolts, GM factory hydraulic throwout bearing, and from reading on here I also replaced the clutch pipe and elbow that are inside the bell housing for insurance (not expensive if you are already in there and definitely don't want to pay labor just for those parts later down the road).
7K miles on the clutch and love it. Drives like stock but holds the quick torque ramp that I have in my tune.
edit: I am stock turbo with ZZP IC and upper charge pipe (only because the stockers blew up after a few months!).
7K miles on the clutch and love it. Drives like stock but holds the quick torque ramp that I have in my tune.
edit: I am stock turbo with ZZP IC and upper charge pipe (only because the stockers blew up after a few months!).
#19
Senior Member
I haven't heard anything bad about it, other than nobody really knows it's upper limit for torque. It's definitley underrated, but by how much is anyone's guess.
So far mine has survived 9k miles on 328/356 from the stock turbo, and so far it's holding up to abuse from a Z54 "6758" EFR. I'm kinda the guinea pig with it at the moment
Edit: Forgot to mention 2 things.
First, if you're happy with the power level you're at, the GMPP kit and a ZZP or LuK flywheel will be more than enough to cover you.
Second, if you want some handling/traction help, I suggest you look into Powell control arm bushings and rotated mounts. Helps with wheel hop and limits movement in the suspension that shouldn't be there, helping to plant the power.
So far mine has survived 9k miles on 328/356 from the stock turbo, and so far it's holding up to abuse from a Z54 "6758" EFR. I'm kinda the guinea pig with it at the moment
Edit: Forgot to mention 2 things.
First, if you're happy with the power level you're at, the GMPP kit and a ZZP or LuK flywheel will be more than enough to cover you.
Second, if you want some handling/traction help, I suggest you look into Powell control arm bushings and rotated mounts. Helps with wheel hop and limits movement in the suspension that shouldn't be there, helping to plant the power.
Last edited by Tdubbs; 06-27-2017 at 07:05 PM.
#24
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
I am a fairly stock GMS1 owner at 110k on OEM clutch. Starting to slip a little. So I bought OEM clutch and pressure plate, LUK flywheel, OEM TOB, all new TOB bolts flywheel bolts (tty) pressure plate bolts, and a new clutch pipe. I figure I'm pretty much done with power adding for a while, and I DD as well so I didn't want a ridiculous clutch. Also replacing axles, axle seals, and hubs since I'm going to be doing all of this.
#25
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I am a fairly stock GMS1 owner at 110k on OEM clutch. Starting to slip a little. So I bought OEM clutch and pressure plate, LUK flywheel, OEM TOB, all new TOB bolts flywheel bolts (tty) pressure plate bolts, and a new clutch pipe. I figure I'm pretty much done with power adding for a while, and I DD as well so I didn't want a ridiculous clutch. Also replacing axles, axle seals, and hubs since I'm going to be doing all of this.