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i think i got a decent amount of info yes. heres what i got so far. hopefully its all good and i can get this project started.
nozzle location: lower charge pipe. (still stuck on wether to go close to ic or close to tb). i also dont know if angle of the nozzle matters. any concrete final answer would be great!
tank can be mounted higher than the nozzle if using an additional check valve and/or solenoid. tank will go in the trunk for sure.
insulate the charge pipe because i mean why not? its already gonna be off. am i doing the entire thing or just a section?
if all of this seems good to you guys im ready to go then!
The TVS opening is a great place and just the right thickness... It's already custom so why not... I don't plan on selling it.
That's not a TMAP... I use the TMAP on the manifold but the sensor your referring to is a hole plug.
I'm not criticizing you for drilling a hole there, I'm just saying I would be reluctant to. But yeah so you don't use that sensor. I said TMAP? because I wasn't sure what it is but I assume, on LSJ, it measures pressure and maybe temperature. Since you have to plug that hole anyway what kept you from tapping that for a nozzle? Too far from TB?
I'll throw my 2 cents on as far as insulating your intake tube to say it's not a matter of yes worth it or no it does not make significant difference but each situation could have drastically different results. Like HGT said heat transfer relies on temperature differential and the greater the temp difference the higher amount of heat is transferred. I wouldn't think HGT's insulated intake wouldn't make much of a difference because the tube location isn't in a real hot location in the engine bay. May make the most notable difference while sitting around idling in traffic, when heat builds up in the engine bay and intake air speeds are low, but going down the road I would guess the difference is insignificant and even more-so under high throttle when the amount of time air has to conduct heat is minimized and that is the general condition which you would want cold IAT's the most. I would guess it may make around a 1-2 degree temperature difference max while cruising or WOT. I have an non-insulated intake and my IAT1 temps are no more than 5 degrees above ambient while cruising down the road with a fully warm engine/engine bay. However when I sit around idling my IAT1 temps will climb significantly, like 30 degrees or more, but when I get on the throttle again it drops right back down.
For general setups I would say the hotter the area in which the intake rests, the longer the intake length, and, obviously the lower the intake air temperature inside the tube, the greater the difference wrap will make. At what point it becomes worth the trouble is hard to guess without knowing all the factors and dynamic conditions, but some before and after data, under different driving conditions, would be very interesting.
A double wouldn't, so what you are saying is it did make a difference?
You may want to clarify to the OP what it is you did here if you say you "have an non-insulated intake" when in fact, you insulated your entire intake with the exception of the rubber coupler as I also left unwrapped to accommodate disassembly.
Proof reading error. And that's not really to insulate my intake but a makeshift "intake box" made out of radiation barrier that I had lying around. The purpose of it is to prevent the intake from sucking in hot engine bay air from behind the radiator and bring it in from the bottom. Then I have a tunnel that routes fresh air from the front of the car.
I'm just being honest when I say I doubt your wrap really has a significant impact under WOT. It still looks good. I mean you also have a strut tower brace and I would argue the same for that. It's not like it was necessarily a waste of time for what you are trying to achieve I just doubt it netted much of a performance advantage.
lmao that was sarcasm. I know it doesn't translate well through text but it is widely known in the Cobalt world that the strut towers are tied into the firewall and strut tower braces are practically useless.
hey so i havent even considered the possibility of direct injection. what does it entail? is it just tapping into the intake manifold or is there more to it? would direct injection be better than the lower charge pipe in terms of gains?
very interesting and great read. thanks for sharing HGT.
i was planning on getting the aem v2 kit but after reading tons about it being of cheap quality and not working well ive decided to start looking around at other options.
would you guys go devils own, snow performance or aem?
Just from feedback I have seen people have had luck with any of those options. I'm using DevilsOwn and it has been a quality option for me so far but I haven't had either of the other two so can't comment how quality compares. I know people tend to say good things about AEM systems. I am utilizing their water/methanol fail-safe system even though I have DevilsOwn injection kit. The failsafe system isn't perfect but gives me peace of mind as I can easily verify the system is flowing like it should. Just recently I developed a leak by one of my reservoirs and my pump started sucking air which tripped my failsafe. If I didn't have the failsafe system I wouldn't have known the w/m wasn't working until I went WOT and heard knock. I would recommend failsafe and if it were me I would just go AEM for everything because they are the only outfit offering a true failsafe system that I know of. I would have went that route but I had the DevilsOwn system before I ever considered a failsafe.
failsafe is definitely a must and since i plan on getting that solenoid that aem sells aswell i may just go with the aem kit for some plug and play. i think the main problem people were having was with the nozzles and the internal check valves being crappy. cant i just use the nozzle from another, better quality kit?
Their flow meters have a high failure rate and cost $100.00 to replace
GOOGLE: Meth Failsafe Flow meter not working.
Snow Performance hasn't released their fail-safe system like you said. It hasn't been extensively user tested or proven so we don't know how robust it will be either. AEM is really his only failsafe option at this time unless he wants to wait for the Snow alternative.
Did not know they currently had a failsafe system. It appears, from the link you provided, that the current Snow system also utilizes a flow sensor as well.
Pressure failsafes do not protect against clogged nozzles or seized check valves. The best failsafe is leaning on it hard enough that the car falls over if the system fails. Period.
Piecing together a system that handles 100% meth takes a matter of minutes.
To the methanol noobs and a reminder to everyone else: Boost Juice and Devils Own Brew have quality control problems as in they could be watered down. I tested a batch of Boost Juice and measured only 36% Methanol, where -20F blue washer fluid + 1 bottle of yellow Heet = 34% Methanol. The saddest test was the Devils Own Brew, that came out to a whopping 8% Methanol content...this all occurred because the Brew slushed up in my methanol tank on a cold day, wtf!
The best acid test is to dump a bottle cap full onto the ground and light it with a lighter, then try to relight the lighter without the flint (to confirm the methanol is burning). If it doesn't burn, then you're under ~30% Methanol. I did a bunch of testing here, compared against 99% VP methanol that I mixed manually every 10% to characterize the different testing methods. The best DIY method of the many I tried is to use a gram scale and 100 mL graduated cylinder, if you assume there is only methanol and water in the solution, then you can accurately get a % of methanol with the resultant specific gravity reading. 100mL of water at 20C is 100 grams, where 100mL of methanol at 20C is 79 grams.
Have you brought this to their attention?
Where do you work?
I'll check every gallon I have here but that is such a difference, my fail-safe wide-band would catch it.
I contacted Devils Own, they wanted me to send them a sealed gallon. I opt'd out to make a video of me unsealing this sealed container and testing it. Also consider I didn't find out until many months after I purchased the product.
Does your failsafe measure Methanol content directly?
11-15-2018, 10:32 PM
