The egt is where it shines from a performance standpoint

yup for sure. why the hell better then a tb spacer that is super inconsistent. since direct port, I have not seen one knock retard event on a pull. where ass with the spacer, every other pull. im gonna even go as far as saying id do this over lower charge pipe. since the manifold is designed to flow air not water, water will not move through it the way air does. direct eliminates that issue.

Definitely, agree with you. The meth/water mix doesn't vaporize as quickly as fuel or nitrous (already gas) so it's flow is going to go the shortest route and not mix well. I'm going to assume the KR you saw before was cylinders 1 and 4?

It was mostly 3 but it was random for the most part

so another meth system update. with the old tb spacer I couldn't run a gap bigger then .025 or id get spark blow out, in one cylinder. Probably the one that was getting most of the meth lol. I threw in stock plugs today with .028 gap. worked 100%. no breaking up at all. so I guess that's a win. im gonna keep it there. that's what I ran with my zfr. gonna stay with stock plugs. car runs smoother. 1 step colder works fine, keeps exhaust temp down 100 extra degrees, but ill do more checking on that one. 100 is a lot, but not enough too use em, especially with meth and me not getting any knock. even with 40C intake temps. which is impressive.

Man its been a while. Lol so little update. My turbine housing got chewed up some how. Looked like something hit it, will post pics later. Got new turbo, pulled valve cover and manifolds and checked everything out. Checked cylinders with camera everything looks good so idk what happened. Compression. Good, leak down good. Installed new turbo . we shall see how it goes in spring. See if I still loose oil as well. Was loosing quite a bit, smoking while in boost but never any other time. Also just bought a new meth controller. This one is map based , as in you program it with a laptop like you would ur ecu with hptuners. Uses its own map sensor, so I should make it work exactly how I want it.

Also got all my issues with my tune fixed. Sent it to zzp and they fixed my hesitation and my massive amounts of knock I was seeing on light load. Gained some mid range power so I'm gonna dyno again in spring. She also doesnt fall on her face after 260kmh anymore. Pulls till she runs out of rpm. Got her up to 280kmh and had a few hundred rpm left when I decided that was enough. I think thats 174mph or so

ZZP remote tune or on the dyno?

remote. He basically just fixed my tune.

Most often, this means that you have a crankcase pressure problem - although it can also mean you have an oil pressure problem, but BEP turbos usually don't have that issue.

My bet would be crankcase pressure. It can be a combination of poor ventilation (your PVC system needs expanded) and/or blow-by.

Might just be time to expand the size of your PCV connections. Are you using the PRS Catch Can system or anything like that?

EDIT: with that said, if you had problems with your turbo... it might just be that you had a weak seal. If the problem persists with the new turbo, I'd definitely look at your crankcase breather system.

you havent seen much on my thread have you? Believe me my crank case pressure and pcv system is not a problem at all lol. I have 0 pressure and a gauge to monitor it to make sure I have 0 pressure. I have a pretty heavily modified pcv system that I personally designed that eliminates that as an issue. The issue was most likely the turbo...hoping. New turbo is on now. And my tune issues was someone decided to mess with the optimum spark table and they shouldnt have.

I definitely haven't; I didn't keep up with the forums the last handful of years while I was in school. And I didn't scroll back far enough to see the pics.

I'll catch u up. I'm very picky and meticulous, I need everything perfect so I addressed everything that I knew was an issue. Tried Powell system. Friend of mine told me some issue with it so I tested and sure enough it wasnt working as it should, so I spent the winter designing something that did.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...3a7550c92e.jpg

Probably time for an update eh? Lol

Yesssss

So little update, I think I posted last summer my car was burning oil in boost like a liter to liter and half on a spirited 5 hour drive with lots of boosting. Well over winter I swapped out the turbo, idk if I posted pics but the turbine wheel was chewed up, didnt look like there was oil in the housing, except for the burned white patches, which could be oil. Well I took it for same run this year, plus another 3 hour run, top speed run.....made it to 176mph this time . fun fact , ur Speedo shuts down and goes back to 0 at that speed. And did a lot of boosting. No more smoke in boost and no oil level drop at all? So it was a bad turbo. I did find my drain line was also pinched so that probably didn't help. She all good now.

I also bought a meth controller that is programed with laptop and software similar to hptuners . I would never use anything less. So much more control, plus so many options and built In failsafes . love it

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...03aa7f8170.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...93dfac9408.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...218a67203d.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...4dbeb918fe.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...721ac4ff70.jpg

That turbine shaft looks a little cooked lol

Does the software let you select the PWM frequency? I configured up my AEM Infinity to control my pump but it let's you define your own PWM frequency and I was really left guessing where it should be set. If you see PWM frequency spec on that thing anywhere I'd be interested in knowing what it is.

Was that Turbo your original turbo or basically what I'm asking was the failure premature? Do you think the kinked return line is what ultimately caused the failure?

I'll have a look. What does pwm stand for ? Lol

I think it was the kinked line and a few times I accidently shut off engine after abusing it for a while by accident. I'm sure that didn't help. But I'm gonna say mostly kinked line.

Pulse Width Modulation

no, it doesn't. it basically gives to a table with rpm and boost or maf, or meth flow, however u wanna do it, and you map out the pump duty cycle. then another table for you solenoid control, however you wanna control it. then your output tables for whatever you wanna connect to them. failsafe, led, solenoid, also had aux pump output if ur running 2 pumps

Alright so the frequency is fixed which makes sense. Thought maybe the spec would be listed somewhere.
Edit: I found it on their website. Looks like it utilizes a couple different frequencies depending on what it is controlling
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cob...2b7f4c7932.jpg
I can't find anywhere about how the controller frequency is selected. From what I have read the pumps will run more smoothly with a higher frequency. Unfortunately the solid state relay I have to use (because AEM not designed for full load of pump) is limited to 1kHz. Looking over it more this/your controller is a pretty awesome option.
Edit 2: I contacted the company and they informed me their frequency is currently fixed at 20kHz. They say it isn't configured yet in the firmware but one day there will be the option to set it at 20-30hz for solenoid control and 10kHz or 20kHz for pump control. With that high of frequency the pump pulsations should be mostly smoothed out. I wish I had a way to utilize such a high frequency. I wonder how their circuit does it.

How are you configuring your failsafe?

ya their output 3 and 4 are not active in current firmware either yet, waiting for new update for that.
I got a few ways, I have an aem failsafe, so like that, the one in the controller I haven't set yet since I haven't got my one meth spike smothed out at initial activation just yet. but I will most likely be doing it via the duty cycle table, if duty doesn't match flow, it will trip. also using the fluid level in tank, if the switch its activated for 10 seconds, I have a delay because when fluid is low it opens and closes the switch as the fluid sloshes, my low fluid light comes on and the failsafe is tripped. it activates a relay which activates a solenoid to cut my boost and grounds out the map temp wire to cause ecu to see over 200 degree temps and set my iat table to pull timing above 150 degrees.