The itch has come back...
 

AND it's starting to get BAD. lol

She's fully bolted and tune right now with CM springs and slotted rotors. The tune is really good and impresses A LOT of people at car meets. The issue now is what other mods should I get to make more power with the proper handling modifications.

As of right now, with the tune, she makes 314 hp/324 tq. Now since I got use to her tune, is seems like she's tired of the child games and wants to get serious.

This is what I'm thinking...

I want the power gains of 350-380 from the pump and improvement in handling so I won't kill myself or others. I want to do this on stock turbo, but I figure that I would probably need:

Cams
Connecting Rods
Stainless steel lines
GMPP Clutch
Engine Mounts (maybe...not for sure)
Sway Bars (ehh....just a thought)
Re-tune

The other items that I keep getting mixed info about are:

Pistons
Valve Springs
Injectors

As of now, I'm trying to come up with a plan. Trying to figure out what items I should get first and what mods would be proper for this set-up. Any info would be greatly appreciated....and don't get mad if I as noob questions. This is really my first fast car.

E can get you close to your goals, but meth can be the most help if you don't have E available. Pistons and rods are just for a safety feature and won't really help towards power goals.

So are the stock rods and pistons good for this set up? I'm still weary of running meth since she is my daily...so meth is out of the question.

Stock rods and pistons are good for at least 400 or more on a real good tune. Meth is safe, but you just gotta make sure your lines are working properly and you have a supply of meth. Super easy way to make the power is get a bigger turbo. But that may be out of the question.

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A bigger turbo was my idea, but I believe it wouldn't be a cost effective in the long run if I want more power. Going with a bigger turbo (IMO) means that I would need to beef up the internals.

If that was case, I would try to peice together my own turbo to save money.

350-380whp flat out isn't going to happen without the help of ethanol (or race fuel) on the stock turbo, coupled with a pretty aggressive tune. There's just only so much power that can be made on such a small turbo.

As far as reliability and power. Try to never associate the two together. Unfortunately they're completely adversely proportional. With more of one, comes less of the other. With that said though, a mild turbo upgrade like an efr6258, efr6758, bnr2871, or even the k04+ are you're only option for making your hp goals on 93.

So I would have to get a bigger turbo. Damn, ok then. Is it possible to piece a k04+ together or should just look bigger turbo? Also, would this require beefing up the internals?

You can as a safety net but it isn't super necessary on a good one. You'd be maxing out a k04+ at 340-350ish and that's all you'd get out of it. Something like the bnr or the Zfr will have almost stock spool and can easily get 350 and have over 400 potential with more mods.

There's nothing to really "piece together" with a k04+. It's basically your stock k04 with a slightly larger and upgraded compressor wheel. It's work that you'll need someone with good knowledge of turbos to setup and rebuild the turbo for you. Plus it's just a bolt in turbo, so there's nothing to piece together. The exterior of the turbo looks 100% stock but with a decent little bump in power over stock.

That does sound pleasing about the BNR or Zfr. Would I have to get new CP's for them???

k04+ does sounds nice, but the itch will always get me. If Wert says is true about the maximum power out put, I'll look at the bigger turbos. Are BNR and Zfr just bolt in or do I need some other things to put it on?

They are bolt on turbos just like stock. Bnr you need charge with a bov. With the Zfr or wr3 option you can use stock piping or and aftermarket piping.

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Depending on the dyno, the k04+ can squeeze out a max of about 360-370whp.

Both the BNR and the ZFR are "bolt on" turbos, but both have their little extra bits that they need. The BNR requires a bov to run and the coolant and oil lines must be reworked to make everything line up correctly. The ZFR does not need a bov, however, (depending on what charge pipes you have) you will need a longer coupler (5") off of the turbo to correctly reach the piping, the oil feed line is a tad questionable and the heat shield bolt on the very top of the manifold must be removed for the turbo to fit correctly. I personally had to extend the oil feed line for mine, and one other zfr I did an install on. Some have different opinions, but the oil line fitment is an issue imo.

Get ZFR, cam with fuel lobe, pistons and a clutch.

A cam with the larger lobe really won't do anything if you're not running out of fuel. You might pick up 3-4 horses if anything. Not worth the hassle. Same thing with pistons. Only reason to do them is a safety net for over 400whp or if you are worried about your motor horribly. Best bet would is to go a very reputable tuner. Everything should be OK.

I'm fully bolted with a Zfr along with stock head and block. Went with a good tuner and my cars been in good hands ever since. Only problems I had was I shattered third in my trans. I had to get another one. Just remember to add that to a mod list if you want serious power...

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^^^^What he said

The Hahn S20G is another bolt on turbo, You could make 350-450hp, I have seen the 20G on the LNF making anywhere from 350 to 435, Just depends on how much your was to push it.

And rigth now its on sale for $1100

Stock pistons are good from 475-500whp on a good tune, however I have seen people making 425whp shatter stock pistons, but stock rods are good to 550whp. The actual stock block itself will go before the stock rods with sleeves cracking around 500+whp. A set of pistons, larger fuel pump lobe intake cam, a larger turbo with full bolt ons including intercooler and you'd be pretty well set for your goals.