jcalvin1126

Hello,

Ok so the LNF jumped time, and pretty sure I smacked valves. Just wanted to pick your alls brains. Just confirming the things I need,

Timing chain kit
Head gasket
Head/valves
exhuast/intake mani gasket
turbo gasket,
downpipe gasket
head bolts/studs

Anything I am missing?

Also ISO front mount intercooler

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Antifreeze, are you going to reuse the cam actuators? Maybe the hpfp duel line if you goober it up. Hope you didn't hit the Pistons. How did you do it?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

A new ldk long block.

/thread

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

HPFP line should be fine, just don't go scraping things with it.

Really though ECaulk has a good point. If you can afford it, get an LDK block. Won't have to worry about the block cracking down the line.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I was on mobile so I missed a few things if he wants to go the engine rebuild route, since you'll have it down you'll want new lifters and cam guides, you'll want to have a machine shop check the head out if you smacked a valve and you'll likely need at least one new piston. Unless you have time and tools at your disposal I strongly recommend going with the LDK.

Also either route you go I recommend you replace the clutch, flywheel, TOB, etc since you'll have it torn apart already.

Side note I'm selling a TR8 intercooler kit, PM me and i'll send pics.

When you add the cost up for the parts youre damn close to a new LDK.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

But an ldk, the lnf block is garbage. Never know when the porus block will strike

FLASH1970

might want to add valve guides and seals. the valve seats might need a little work too. a machine shop will tell you what needs fixin'. might just want to buy a rebuilt head.

before tearing it apart, might want to pop the valve cover off and loosen all the cam caps until there's no tension on them. the valve springs will push the cams up which will close all the valves. then I've taken a compression tester, removed the little valve in the end with some needle nose pliers. they are usually threaded in there and come out easily. once that valve is removed I thread the compression tester hose into the spark plug hole. oh, first remove the spark plugs. once the hose is threaded in, take an air compressor line and connect it to the compression tester hose. wherever you hear or feel air coming out of is where the problem is. if it's coming out of the intake, bent intake valves. coming out the exhaust, bent exhaust valves. coming out of the PCV line, rings/piston.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

I burned $600 on doing a headgasket, only to find out it that wasn't it. ZZP LDK block saves the day at the cost of your wallet.