TroyK

I'm getting these error codes(P0011 & P0014) & the GM dealership said it was going to cost me a lot of money to replace the actuators & the timing chain. I have 188k miles on the motor. If these codes are set the motor has less power on bottom end. If I clear the codes the power comes back.

If they are talking about the 2 solenoids at the end of the valve cover, I replaced those a yr ago. I also checked them again the past month to make sure the screens are clean, they were.

So I have HP tuners, do I disable these 2 error codes or can I change the setting to something less sensitive? If I disable these codes what is the worst case scenario if the solenoids fail completely? Bent valves? Something else? Or do I bit the bullet & get the work done?

Henry3959

The solenoids are cheap, a broken timing chain is a lot more than the cost to replace it. At 188K I would do it.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

I'm wondering if a stretched chain or worn guides is causing the codes. You can verify the actuator solenoid itself is still good using this:
Component Testing
1. Measure the resistance of CMP actuator solenoid valve assembly. Resistance should be between 8-15 ohms.
2. Connect a jumper wire between the CMP actuator solenoid control circuit at the solenoid and a good ground. Connect a fused jumper wire to the CMP actuator solenoid ignition voltage circuit at the solenoid. Momentarily touch the fused jumper to B+. The spool valve should move from fully closed to fully opened position.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

No, do not disable those codes.

Fix the problem.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

This. The code is the computer basically telling you why you're not getting bottom end power. The computer recognizes that there is a difference between command and actual, and when the code is shown the computer is limiting performance to limit potential damage. The reason why clearing the code makes the power come back is that the computer is no longer limiting the power. The problem of the delta btwn command and actual is still there. It just takes a while for the computer to recognize the problem (time-average).

TroyK

I ended up just buying a new LDK motor from ZZP. The dealership wanted $2000 to replace the timing chain, so a new motor wasn't that much more.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Wait, did you actually check the selenoids or your timing?

If the selenoids are bad, you are talking about a $100 fix verse a 2-3,000 fix.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I mean. i cant see buying a new engine because you need a timing chain. but your car has 189k on it. so i guess that seems logical

TroyK

I don't know how to check my timing for cams, other than looking at HP tuners & it looked ok when I looked at it & logged target & actual, but maybe it is just only swings out of tolerance in certain situations. And don't know what is really considered out of tolerance. I thought I saw yesterday it was around 6% on the sticky of the error code PDF list. I didn't know that when I did the test. I changed the intake solenoid a yr ago, but didn't do the exhaust one then. When these errors started happening.

I also looked at the wire harness at the 90deg bend next to the oil filter & ECU, because I thought I had some rub thru wires on that bracket, but I was wrong.

The motor did check out with 145-155psi on a compression check, so motor should still be in decent condition.

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

Good luck paying labor on that.

cluelessk

Like I've said before. Throwing money at it fixes everything.

TroyK

I guess one thing I didn't mention that is not related to the error codes is the car is at the dealership, because the turbo bearings are bad. So I don't really want to drive it while it is smoking & labor might be slightly cheaper on the turbo install if the motor is out. I'm trying a z54 turbo.

If it was just the error codes at this time, I wouldn't mind messing with troubleshooting more. I had the dealership look at this issue while they were looking at the turbo problem & the recommended fix that they mention was $2000 for the error codes.

I would like to keep the car for another 188k miles, because I really don't see any new cars I like that are not expensive. That's why a new motor seemed ideal for future reliability. The only thing I hate about this car is the trans. I've had problems with bearing going out, but learned it was a driver issue. So I changed my driving habits & I returned the tune to stage 1 levels at 3k & below. Also, the trans falls out of 5th all the time on light throttle right turns. I was hoping when I had the trans out last time for a new clutch, that the problem would go away, but no luck.

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

Well you are going to hate your trans more, installing a zfr. They call it a trans killer for a reason

Henry3959

Sometimes... I saw a shop throw $3000 at an old Chevrolet Chevette worth only $3000 NEW! and still didn't have it running correctly.

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

He was being sarcastic....

Henry3959

I knew that... Just thought I would throw out there that even when all that money is spent it may still have issues.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

why not just take out the bulb for the check engine light while ur at it