trifecta tune slipping gears
iv noticed recently when i run my tune and hammer it gears will slip, this only happens when the tunes on, only other thing iv done besides tune is put in a k&n sri. is the only thing i can do is get a new clutch to prevent this?
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I thought the ZFR was the trans killer, not trifecta ..
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my friend has a cruze 1.4 lnf turbo trifecta tuned and he said same problem is with his, weird iv never seen or heard of this before
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I had it with my trifecta tune too. He brings in all the power all at once so your seat of the pants dyno is impressed with the tune. Problem is the clutch isn't.
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looks like its time for the OP to get a big boy HPT tune
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Originally Posted by Sox-Fan
(Post 7226995)
I had it with my trifecta tune too. He brings in all the power all at once so your seat of the pants dyno is impressed with the tune. Problem is the clutch isn't.
Originally Posted by yellowsupercharged06
(Post 7226996)
looks like its time for the OP to get a big boy HPT tune
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Originally Posted by yellowsupercharged06
(Post 7226989)
I thought the ZFR was the trans killer, not trifecta ..
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My stock clutch never slipped with trifecta. And op, gears don't slip, ur clutch does. U need new one
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Hey hey now! My 3rd gear sure as heck slipped when I ground all of the teeth off of it! :lol:
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
(Post 7227007)
A slipping clutch isn't a dead trans, trifecta is a clutch killer as Sox said
if he meant clutch then thats a diff story, i was basing it off of the OP |
I'm pretty sure ECaulk is correct and the op is mistaken or misspoke. Either way, gears don't slip, clutches do. :)
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Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
(Post 7227044)
Hey hey now! My 3rd gear sure as heck slipped when I ground all of the teeth off of it! :lol:
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yes i meant clutch it will slip in all gears i meant i guess, iv ran the tune for months only in hot weather never had slippage, last summer, i moved to florida, now back to winter its the first time iv ran the tune in cold weather and started seeing a problem idk if it has anything to do with it any 1 recommend a good stage 1 clutch or anything helpful thanks
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I'm HPT tuned and was wondering when I get my ZZP/South Bend stage 4 clutch installed if I can get all the power to hit at once?
Traction would certainly be an issue because I have traction issues in second like most people here lol I have about 345lbs/tq on the stock clutch right now and it's not slipping, but I'm looking to install my new intercooler and clutch in the spring and was wondering if having all that power hit at once is bad? Even with the stage 4 clutch? |
Stage 4 clutch is a race clutch, if you DD I wouldn't recommend it, its do-able just not as nice. The GMPP is probably the best for the money, holds very well few members have thrown over 400ft/lbs at it with no slipping
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
(Post 7227073)
Stage 4 clutch is a race clutch, if you DD I wouldn't recommend it, its do-able just not as nice. The GMPP is probably the best for the money, holds very well few members have thrown over 400ft/lbs at it with no slipping
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I definitely second the GMPP clutch recommendation. It's hands down the best bang for the buck clutch for these cars with the least amount of issues and holds like a champ. If my kys3 ever craps out, that will be my next clutch of choice.
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I'm going to have to guess your clutch is almost gone. How much pedal do you have left?
My clutch slips with with a car full of people at WOT with a trifecta too... and full exhaust, cai, hardpipes, intercooler, etc. I'd hardly expect a tune to be tuned to be "soft" on your clutch, and if it's that close to the edge of clutch capacity that a mere tune can mean the difference between slipping and not - it's time to get a new damn clutch. Mine slips because it's near shot, but I bought it that way. And it only slips with 450+ more pounds in the car. It's at least 90% gone now and time to get a new one - but if you're slipping at stage 1 you're even further gone than me. It's either that or something else is seriously wrong. |
What RPM do you floor it at? If you do it before 3k you're gonna kill your clutch.
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Originally Posted by 09CobaltSS1
(Post 7227085)
I definitely second the GMPP clutch recommendation. It's hands down the best bang for the buck clutch for these cars with the least amount of issues and holds like a champ. If my kys3 ever craps out, that will be my next clutch of choice.
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I ran 386ft/lbs torque on a stock clutch for 30k miles with no slip once I got off Trifecta.
Now, to be clear Vince gave me exactly what I asked for in my tune when I had his tune but I learned a lot of "don't want this, don't want that" from it for sure. Term2 and 09CobaltSS1 both are a lot easier on clutches while still delivering big power and drivability. Frankly I don't need to ramp the power on in a big rush to know my car is stout. I drive a car, not an on/off switch. |
Originally Posted by Sox-Fan
(Post 7227214)
I ran 386ft/lbs torque on a stock clutch for 30k miles with no slip once I got off Trifecta.
Now, to be clear Vince gave me exactly what I asked for in my tune when I had his tune but I learned a lot of "don't want this, don't want that" from it for sure. Term2 and 09CobaltSS1 both are a lot easier on clutches while still delivering big power and drivability. Frankly I don't need to ramp the power on in a big rush to know my car is stout. I drive a car, not an on/off switch. If the OP is slipping with a simple stage 1 tune, I wouldn't say "well you can tune the power band to come on softer" I'd say in this case "buy a better clutch". A real tune is better than canned in so many ways, but the core issue here is the clutch. It simply can't hold the power anymore. But I wouldn't necessarily say an appropriate clutch is going to wear faster with a "all the power possible now" tune versus a custom, smoother powerband. If it's locked in, it's pretty much locked in, the wear is going to come from the driver slipping it. I know it's just a personal anecdote, but I've launched* (4-6k rpm, and sometimes launch control, awd) on a clutch hundreds of times with one clutch in a car making 400hp/450ftlb. I never had abnormal wear because it was an appropriately matched clutch. After 75,000 miles it had easily 50% of it's life to go. I broke 2 axles that way though :lol:, but nothing else. My point is that an "immediate power" situation isn't necessarily going to wear out your clutch - if it's a good clutch that can handle the power. You do increase the risk of actually breaking it though (and everything else). I don't own it anymore but it's well over 100k on the same drivetrain. I lost touch with him though since. I really don't want to come across seeming like I'm discrediting a good tune. They are gold. And a tuned powerband to account for FWD is good stuff. *NOT popping the clutch, but as close to is at you can get, to avoid shock. Loads of traction in AWD. And this is not something I ever do in my cobalt as it's pointless |
Originally Posted by BlackSSstg2
(Post 7226998)
These
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Wear in tear in a car, you sir are crazy.
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Originally Posted by m33pm33p
(Post 7227263)
Not the issue, even with hp tuners your clutch will slip. It's called wear and tear and stressing the parts past their designed limits.
HP because there are far far far more options and tuners that can tune your car to run like a raped ape without lightswitching the tune. It is all about being smooth. |
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