Turbo Opinions
#1
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Turbo Opinions
Hey guys looking to swap turbos on my hhr I'm trying to get near the 400whp range. I'm just curious what some of your guys favorites are and what your experiences are with them. Pros cons etc.
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I'm leaning away from the zfr I have an auto hhr and I'm trying to avoid the crazy spool to help the trans. In my eyes the price on the zfr reflects the quick spool however I would end up having the turbo spool later to save the trans defeating the main purpose of the zfr.
#5
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There are other options, but I think if you're planning on sitting around 400whp you're putting your transmission at risk regardless of what turbo you choose, though I don't know much about the auto boxes. ZFR is definitely the easiest option though.
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That comment tells me that you havent had experience with the hhr ss auto trans you can control what gear your in much like a manual. And yes 90% of the time when it's raced it's drag or roll racing. I'd also like the power for dding. Also I don't see why you say to not even bother.
#8
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That comment tells me that you havent had experience with the hhr ss auto trans you can control what gear your in much like a manual. And yes 90% of the time when it's raced it's drag or roll racing. I'd also like the power for dding. Also I don't see why you say to not even bother.
#9
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Haters gonna hate.
I think what is really on trial here is how does the hhr auto hold up to more power? In most cases autos hold torque much better then manuals. But not always the case. If they are able to take the power without a problem then I see no reason not to go ZFR. Biggest issue for most is the third gear on the f35 so if the auto lacks that weakness just play ball.
Controlling your shifts in an auto really doesn't equal the same control as a manual (at least not older autos) but the real issue would be power in the bends. But if you don't use it for that purpose no worries.
I think what is really on trial here is how does the hhr auto hold up to more power? In most cases autos hold torque much better then manuals. But not always the case. If they are able to take the power without a problem then I see no reason not to go ZFR. Biggest issue for most is the third gear on the f35 so if the auto lacks that weakness just play ball.
Controlling your shifts in an auto really doesn't equal the same control as a manual (at least not older autos) but the real issue would be power in the bends. But if you don't use it for that purpose no worries.
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There are multiple guys over on the hhr forum who are making over 425ftlbs. I do know of one guy who is making 450ish ft lbs and puts down consistent 1.6 60ft times. So if done right it seems they can handle a fair amount I just want to be as safe as I can.
Also I know an auto is never truly like a manual I was just trying to state it's not complete **** either lol.
Also I know an auto is never truly like a manual I was just trying to state it's not complete **** either lol.
#15
I'm in a similar situation to the OP. I've got an HHR and have been considering a turbo swap to make around 400hp. From the little bit of looking around I've done it seems like the ZFR is awesome if you're looking for a bolt on option. But, as stated before, the only downfall is the price. For considerably less money, it seems like the Hahn S20g isn't a bad option. I know it's not on the same level as the ZFR. But if you are not looking for any more than 400hp, which I'm not, it looks like a decent option. Opinions?
#17
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Thing about the 20g is you need a manifold, downpipe, waste gate w/ dump (aka loud as ****), lower charge pipe with MAF relocate, aftermarket intake with MAF block plate, upper charge pipe with BOV flange, and a BOV.
Once you add up everything you need to make something like a 20g, 6262, s252, etc work, you will right on par with a ZFR....
Once you add up everything you need to make something like a 20g, 6262, s252, etc work, you will right on par with a ZFR....
#18
I was talking about the Hahn 20g specifically. Per their website, it's a complete bolt on wih no modification to anything needed.
Cobalt 2.0 Performance
Cobalt 2.0 Performance
#20
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yes but you will still need a maf relocate, lower charge pipe and a bov to run that turbo so right there is around $$300-$500 depending what you can find. i mean if they run the sale again go for it cause it isnt a bad turbo but to buy it at regular price your $200-$300 away from the zfr lol its all in the tune with the zfr i say get that and have term2 tune you im sure he wouldnt have any trouble tuning that lol
#22
Thing about the 20g is you need a manifold, downpipe, waste gate w/ dump (aka loud as ****), lower charge pipe with MAF relocate, aftermarket intake with MAF block plate, upper charge pipe with BOV flange, and a BOV. Once you add up everything you need to make something like a 20g, 6262, s252, etc work, you will right on par with a ZFR....
#24
#25
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