Yesterday my car wasn't pulling hard at all and I had no idea why and I was driving around for a good 15 minutes.. I was like damn Cobe not liking the 102 degree weather?? Then my genius ass looks at the boost gauge and I'm peaking at 9-10lbs.... Well the weather dropped to 85 and it was still at 10lbs... I have the Kn SRI and Catless ZZP DP... My car always hits 15lbs but when I'm at WOT as soon as I hit 5 grand it explodes to 19 and its like some vtech **** lol... But that has always been normal since I got my DP.... Do I need a tune that badly??? My CEL is on! It said I have 5 codes.. 2 of them were duplicate one was a 140 and a evap code then the other one was a low idle code.. Right before I had the codes checked on my way to my buddies house that night it was pushing normal again.... This morning let it warm up and its 90 degrees outside and were back to 10lbs! YAAAAAYYYYYYYYY IM NEON FAST NOW!! WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY CAR..


My kn is already upside down and all the dumb stuff in the right position.. best its gonna get without a tune..

I will be posting a video in 5 minutes...

 

It would help to know all the codes. My first guess would be to check for boost leaks. Secondly, don't run your car hard when it's like 102* outside. I'd love to see a log of the IAT2s from that ****, especially with a stock intercooler. That's a good way to **** something up.

 

CLICK THAT^^^^
As you can tell and here when I hit 5grand It still goes up 2 more psi..

Whats wrong with me car...

I think I need a tune.... and all problems will be solved

 

No the first thing you need to do is post all of the codes you have.

In case you missed the recent threads, tuners hate it when a car isn't running right and you try to tune out issues. That's not how it generally works.

 

I'm waiting for a reply from my buddy of what the codes were

 

Yea I need the codes. Also when you boost is there any sounds? To me it sounds like a boost leak. Or some type of leak. Any maf codes p0100,p0101,p0102,p0103 and etc.

 

Lol, it stills ~100 out, man. Maybe its a fluke.
I haven't been driving my car that hard because the temp here has been ridiculous the last week.

 

Me hears a boost leak. See sig for details.

 

But if there is a leak isn't my vacuum supposed to be different too? Cause that fine! And they werent maf codes..

 

Not all boost leaks cause vac to be high, I'm finding out. It seems to depend where they are. Boost leak testing is always the first step because it solves 80% of the problems. Your symptoms are the same for a lot of different issues, so if you can rule out a leak, we can go from there. Until we know there's not a boost leak, we're always going to default to that.

Can you put your stock airbox back on?

 

I'm trying to get it from the previous owner....

 

I really think its the temperature... Car is running fine now and pushing boost like normal... In summer school as we speak and left my phone in my car... I will post the codes around 12:30 when I get out of here.. I really think it is just a tune that I need..

 

Well I have GM Stage 1 and decent gas. I push more boost when hot out. Don't think it should be less.

And there shouldn't ever be 5 codes or CEL unless it's minor stuff like a P0420 or similar.

 

I think the vacuum being high during a boost leak is only when your leak is aft one of the MAP sensors. Basically the MAP sensor cant see the vacuum anymore.

In your case I'd still check for a boost leak, you might have a crack in your IC that when its hot out and underload the crack opens up... sounds wierd but it happens.

 

That makes perfect sense... The end tanks are what crack correct?? Do i need to take off my front bumper to scope it out?? THE CODES ARE

P0140
P2187
P0451

 

P0140 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

What does that mean?The Powertrain control module (PCM) will provide a .45 volt reference voltage to the Oxygen sensor. When the O2 sensor reaches operating temperature, it will generate a voltage that will vary depending on the oxygen content of the exhaust. Lean exhaust generates a low voltage (less than .45V) and rich exhaust generates a high voltage (greater than .45V). O2 sensors on a specific bank marked as "sensor 2" (as this one is) are used to monitor emissions. A Three-Way Catalyst (TWC) system (catalytic converter) is used to control tailpipe emissions. The PCM uses the signal received from Oxygen sensor 2 (#2 indicates aft of catalytic converter, #1 indicates pre-converter) to read efficiency of TWC. Normally this sensor will switch between high and low voltage at a noticeably slower rate than the front sensor. This is normal. If the signal received from rear (#2) O2 sensor indicates that the voltage has "stuck" between .425V to .474 V, the PCM determines this sensor is inactive and this code will set.

Potential SymptomsYour check engine light(CEL), or malfuction indicator lamp (MIL) will be illuminated. There will not likely be any noticeable drivability problems other than the MIL. The reason is this: The rear or post catalytic converter Oxygen sensor does not affect fuel deliver(this is an exception on Chryslers). It only MONITORS the efficiency of the catalytic converter. For this reason, you will likely not notice any engine trouble.

CausesThe causes for a P0140 code are fairly few. They could be any of the following:

Shorted heater circuit in O2 sensor. (Usually requires replacement of heater circuit fuse in fuse block also)
Shorted signal circuit in O2 sensor
Melting of harness connector or wiring due to contact with exhaust system
Water intrusion in harness connector or PCM connector
Bad PCM
Possible SolutionsThis is a fairly specific problem and shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose.

First, start engine and warm up. Using a scan tool, watch the Bank 1, sensor 2, o2 sensor voltage. Normally the voltage should switch slowly above and below .45 volts. If it does, the problem is likely intermittent. You'll have to wait for the problem to surface before you can accurately diagnose.

However, if it doesn't switch, or is stuck then perform the following: 2. Shut off vehicle. Visually check the Bank1,2 harness connector for melting or chafing of the harness or the connector. Repair or replace as needed 3. Turn ignition on, but engine off. Disconnect the O2 sensor connector and check for 12Volts at the Heater Circuit supply and for proper ground on the heater circuit ground circuit. a. If 12V heater supply is missing, check the proper fuses for an open in the circuit. If heater circuit fuse is blown, then suspect a bad heater in the o2 sensor causing a blown heater circuit fuse. Replace sensor and fuse and recheck. b. If ground is missing, trace the circuit and clean or repair ground circuit. 4. Next, with connector still unplugged, check for 5 Volts on the reference circuit. If this is missing, check for 5 Volts at the PCM connector. If 5 Volts is present at the PCM connector but not at the o2 sensor harness connector, then there is an open or short in the reference wire supply between the PCM and the o2 sensor connector. However, if there is no 5 Volts present at the PCM connector, the PCM is likely at fault due to internal short. Replace PCM. ** (NOTE: on Chrysler models, a common problem is the 5Volt reference circuit can be shorted out by any sensor on the car that uses a 5 Volt reference. Simply unplug each sensor one at a time until the 5 Volts reappears. The last sensor you unplugged is the shorted sensor. Replacing it should fix the 5 Volt reference short.) 5. If all the voltages and grounds are present, then replace the Bank 1,2 O2 sensor and re-test.




P2187 is usually associated with a boost leak of some sort.




P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance



I personally think you may be experiencing a boost leak. You can pop the bumper off, that would be the easiest way to diagnose the intercooler and connectors. Another spot to check would be the TMAP sensor (the one on the lower charge piping), check to see is there is any cracks in that tube or if the vac line is hanging there unattached.

Before you take off the bumper, check the bottom of the intercooler and see if the condenser bar is hanging or broken away from the intercooler. That can leave a small hole.

 

I didn't read all of this but you need to do a boost leak test. Pressurize the system and see if it holds boost. It should hold it for a while. If it doesn't then spray soapy water on every connection. You will see bubbles where it's leaking. It's a really easy process. If you don't know how to do it look it up on YouTube. You can make your own tester for like $10.

 

Okay Im checking my intercooler out today... So it is deffinetly looking like a boost leak?

 

P2187 is code associated with boost leaks historically brought up here on the CSS.net forum. The other two codes may be possible by-products of it.

The other idea maybe a bad O_2 sensor, I feel thats highly unlikely. I would first do what was suggested with the boost leak tester. The thing about a boost leak is, it can be very small or subtle and it doesnt only occur at the charge piping and intercooler. it can also occur at multiple other locations. A vacuum line with a hole in it can be considered a boost leak too.

If you do a boost leak test and spray soapy water over all connections, you will see bubbles where the leak is.

Another location for boost leaks could be the BPV diaphragm. If that has a hole or tear, the boost leak will be leaking air back into the intake and spraying soapy water will not show the boost leak.

 

okay I will be checking later tonight... It has to be in the intercooler like you said cause its only starts to happen when it gets SUPER humid and SUPER hot out....

 

You almost certainly have a leak.

 

Do you have a way to run a pressure test, or are you going to do it visually. If you are going to do it visually, I'd say don't waste your time. Visually, you can only see very large cracks, holes, piping that popped off, etc.

 

Ok I'm experiencing somewhat the same problem. When first cranked take off 1st gear will boost 10psi then 2nd gear at 4k the car will fall on it's face and not boost anymore then 5lbs it goes to 5 then drops back to zero. On the tech 2 it's showing at idle 14lbs of boost and when I hit 10 in 2nd it's at 28lbs on the scanner. I've pulled vacume on the holding tank behind the tb and opened the bypass valve to check if it's sticking and pulled vacume on it and you can hear it moving. Now with me being a tech and having gmpp I can get away with ALOT of repairs lol. But I had the following codes
P0451
P0497
P0455
P0101
So I replaced the evap purge canister cause face it they go out. Then I got thinking about the maf it's been raining a lot and to he'll with it I'm getting paid to put free parts on my car put one on. Cleared codes and the only one coming back is the p0101.... So now I'm at a loss. I've come up with the charge bypass valve solenoid(on manifold 3 vacume lines on it) but I honestly don't think this will fix it. O I forgot when it happened I just gotten gas took a long start which is the fuel pressure sensor and evap canister on the manifold. Get to the rd go to pull out and a dick civic decides to speed up to show off so I boosted hard enough to spin the tires. When I let off to make my turn it idled down loud back fire and then no boost but no cel but found stored codes. I have not completely "boost leak" checked the car but I have gone over everything multiple times and found nothing and it doesn't sound like a boost leak. My mods k&n intake cat less dp and trifecta tune(also flashed back to stock to see if any change) thanks in advanced

 

I FIXED MINE TODAY!!!! MY
PURGE SILONOID WAS SHOT!! 30 bucks and it fixed everything!

 

U talking about the one I replaced already onto of the manifold