2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

315ss #HondaHunting Lsj

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Old 09-15-2017, 07:34 AM
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I just wanted to verify the direction of bulk flow under each condition so I understand the way the system works. I think it's important to understand the way a system works before you make changes to it.
Old 09-15-2017, 10:26 AM
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Some explanations I read on hear sound like this. That was one of them.

Old 09-15-2017, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jdbaugh1
I just wanted to verify the direction of bulk flow under each condition so I understand the way the system works. I think it's important to understand the way a system works before you make changes to it.
Just wondering... Is you PCV keeping up with the channeled spacer you made?
Is your dip stick blowing out?
Old 09-15-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by HGT
Just wondering... Is you PCV keeping up with the channeled spacer you made?
Is your dip stick blowing out?
My dipstick didn't blow out even when I had my PCV port plugged off and had only a breather filter. But no it doesn't blow out now either. My oil stays clean a lot longer but I think a big part of that can be attributed to much less blowby with proper piston to wall clearance.
Old 09-15-2017, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jdbaugh1
I just wanted to verify the direction of bulk flow under each condition so I understand the way the system works. I think it's important to understand the way a system works before you make changes to it.
The way it works stock is a problem. It pulls the crud directly to the IM during normal and cruise. This keeps the intercooler clean but as soon as it boosts (when you really need crankcase ventilation the most) then the crud gets sucked thru your intercooler. If that was not a problem then GM would never have plumbed those gasses to the IM in the first place.
Mr. B gave the best advise as usual but one most insert his local dialect to hear it.. Keep it stock and add a catch can inline off of the valve cover. I think a real modification would be a real pump. Weak electric smog pumps were engineered to only run 60-90 seconds during warm up so they would need a boost controller to turn it on and off. The only HP increasing solution is an engine driven pump that is $$$ and hard to fabricate on our engines.
Myself and the OP are in off road conditions requiring boost almost constantly. Our solution is to vent it all to atmosphere. We trade and get dirtier oil, lots of pollution, poor ring sealing and poor ring life. We get a cleaner air charge, cleaner inter cooler, TB and combustion chamber. Pick a poison.
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Old 09-15-2017, 01:49 PM
  #131  
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HGT "expert that likes to argue"

He blocked me for commenting on him asking for help and then arguing with everyone's advice.

I don't get it. I understand discussion and letting people know when they're so far off that we can't help(new members that don't try and look for info or don't even have a faint idea of what they're doing).

But arguing with people that have been specializing in our platform for years makes no sense. If you're so educated why join the forum?
Old 09-15-2017, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cluelessk
HGT "expert that likes to argue"

He blocked me for commenting on him asking for help and then arguing with everyone's advice.

I don't get it. I understand discussion and letting people know when they're so far off that we can't help(new members that don't try and look for info or don't even have a faint idea of what they're doing).

But arguing with people that have been specializing in our platform for years makes no sense. If you're so educated why join the forum?
You don't remember too well do you? You're referring to the guy that bought the dented up base model you made fun of and said if you want an SS buy an SS. I showed him how to put you on his ignore list. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/new-...1/#post7662570

Then you received this advice from yet another member.



Last edited by Henry3959; 09-15-2017 at 02:27 PM.
Old 09-15-2017, 03:00 PM
  #133  
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Alrighty guys, lets chilllllll out
Old 09-15-2017, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HGT
You don't remember too well do you? You're referring to the guy that bought the dented up base model you made fun of and said if you want an SS buy an SS. I showed him how to put you on his ignore list. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/new-...1/#post7662570

Then you received this advice from yet another member.


Throwing Fe5 struts on a base model is a waste without all.the other components. Just replace with the regular parts. It's a waste money for a daily driver.

It was a blunt way of saying that. And solid SS's are getting cheap. Co-worker bought a TC sedan for 4k USD in better than average shape. Throwing parts at a beat base model is throwing money away.
Old 09-15-2017, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cluelessk
Throwing parts at a Cobalt is throwing money away.
SS Cobalts aren't worth putting money into either. It's not an investment that you should expect to get any kind of return on. My blower is worth more than my whole car but every part I have put on it has been worth every penny. If you plan on keeping a car forever or for a very long time it isn't that crazy to want to replace your worn out parts with better parts.




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