NickLSJ

My setup is zzp intake, vibrant long tube header downpipe, and Magnaflow cat back. I will be adding 2.8"pulley, 60# inj, zzp S2 belt (just found out they make their own now instead of using gm S2), zzp S3 heat exchanger, dual pass and option b. Oh and zzp engine mount and tranny mounts. I was just wondering if anyone has done anything similar and tried to keep the stock clutch? I'm assuming it will slip because I'm hoping for 250-260 whp, but maybe I'm wrong and it actually will hold, thought it was worth asking lol.

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

Ditch the zzp engine and trans mounts. The engine mount will rattle your face off, and unless they changed the design of their trans mounts, they wont actually rotate the trans. Id recommend powell or ottp mounts with the stock engine mount.

Your clutch would probably be fine for awhile. Really depends on you as a driver. I would start to save for a gmpp to prepare for worst case scenario though.

NickLSJ

Oh man thanks I'll definitely look into those! And actually that works because I already saved up for the gmpp clutch upgrade lol I was just thinking maybe I could avoid the pain in the ass of putting it in lol

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I think they did change the design to actually rotate things, but they will most def rattle your face off.

jmix

iTrader: (2)

I pretty much have the same setup as you with the exception of a 2.9 pulley and different exhaust. I bought the car stock with 130k miles and put my stage kit on about 6k miles ago (at 162k now) and the clutch has been fine. I'm fairly sure it's the stock clutch or at least a stock replacement. I don't beat the sh*t out of the car but I do enjoy where my money went and (knock on wood) I haven't felt it slip yet.

Stumpalump

Weak link should start with the crankshaft. That's the component you want to break first. Everthing else should be able to handle what it will take to break it. At least in theory.....What is the sense in building extra power that you are afraid to use? Build it so the gas pedal and clutch are nothing but on off switches and know bliss. Finicky, weak, souped up crap that stays broken or in need of mods is the norm but I'm weird so....Bolt it together right and once then beat the snot out of it for a decade.

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

The stock clutch will handle those power levels easily....

I had over 300whp on the stock clutch with 67k miles.. no slip or issues.

Bluelightning

iTrader: (8)

Crankshaft....? Never seen one break on these cars. Most certainly will never break in the 260whp range. That power range is just getting started for these motors.

It all depends on your driving habits how long the stock clutch will last. But as stated get a GMPP clutch if it does start slip. Best bang for the buck.

Boostedbalt07

If I were you id get the Turbo Tech Racing rotated STOP mounts. My dad has them on both his lnf and when i drive them compared to my lsj with the lnf mounts its crazy how much more solid their car feels. But thats just my personal preference. I'm stage 2 with gmpp clutch and its holding, only had to do the clutch because the people before me ran the car through the dirt so.