HA! I didn't know what it was either. I believe CED has a faq that says the stock pistons are only good for 310hp. However I know for a fact that there are some on here running higher than that and they seem to be holding pretty good. But I could be mistaken on the hp numbers for the people on here using stock internals.

 

Wow, lotta slow people here with 2 cents to contribute to this thread.

First, great choice on a build imo.

2nd, the GMR cams, you don't have the valvetrain needed to support it nor is it worth it. To regrind that deep is just stupid.

Intake manifold is fine, measure aftermarket map voltage on a reference line to boost bypass and compare it to stock MAP if you doubt it.

I would ditch that stock blower though. You could probably find a turbo swap or TVS used cheap now.

 

So what happened to your original motor?

Also, keep the 272's, and ignore the GM-R's. You could technically get away with ditching the cam sensor, and using a 2.2 shortened exhaust cam. Just need to plug the head.

 

Wow great build, GL!

 

those are the ones i got they must have just started painting them... they look the same just painted.

thanks man, i really want to go with the TVS but hav enot found one yet... i will just take my time until i find a good deal.

it blew apart! haha it was very horrible!

 

If you get stuck on something shoot me a PM. I/WSFrazier have 3 built motors with over 50k miles combined on them with parts similar to what you are using.

 

what blowers?

 

TVS, M62, and Holset Diesel Snail

 

wow... what pulley did you have on the M62

 

2.5" pulley on the M62 car.
TVS car pushes 24+ psi on a 2.75" pulley
Holset turboed car runs 20-22psi regularly but has seen 30+ before.

 

what internal work did you guys do on the two superchraged ones..

 

My car ran a 2.5" ring with 10:1 pistons, and the one I flew to California to work on ran a 2.6" ring and 10:1's as well.

Mine had ARP Headstuds, Cometic gasket, 10:1 pistons, and a milled head that might have affected compression slightly.

The other one in Cali had all that, plus 272 cams and Crower rods. Also ported head, 3 angle valve job, and ported intake manifold.

 

ok well i feel a little better about how long my motor will last then thanks haha.

but i still would really like to go with a TVS

that is the one thing i held out on was the rods... i hope i dont kick my ass later about it... but i did get ARP rod bolts...

 

If only I was ready to release my latest tests.
The stocker is indeed 'fine'. But still licks ass compared to the alternatives.

On another note.... are you telling him to measure the same boost source twice to verify something? Maybe it's too early in the morning here.... but measuring the boost in the bypass line (the one that we hook up aftermarket gauges to), and the boost seen my the OEM MAP sensor WILL be identical... considering both are within inches of each other in the manifold.

 

You're fine. People are breaking sleeves before they do rods. Would be pointless to invest in rods and then skip out on the Darton MID's.

 

If you do it correctly, it'll last quite a while. For some reason thats hard to grasp though for some people around here as its a rarity to find an LSJ outside of our 3 that can move under their own power post-engine build.

 

yeah mine blew twice and my car only has 6k miles

 

What exactly "blew"? Was it the same both times?

 

my motor runs fine... its hard to keep a tranny to last.

 

well i had the Cobalt addiction stage 4 with stock pistons... haha bad idea... she lasted about an hour, that was at 3k miles on the car

then i rebuilt it with diamond pistons... and a custom tune... (which was a shitty ass tune!!!!) i let the motor breaking slowly... then gave it her first hard run and blew the clutch so i got a clutch kit, then broke that in and started to drive it how it should be again and it lasted a week of here and there driving. she blew up going down the highway at 110mph... the piston completely fuked up in the cylinder, the rod went through the block in 2 spots and left a huge hole in it! and the back side of the block cracked in half!... we pulled more metal out of the oil pan and intake/exhaust ports then you would beleive.

 

Good to hear on the engine, sucks about trans though. If I have trans problems in the future I'll probably end up cryoing the quaife 6 speed set.
Did you spin a rod bearing or something?

 

yeah i do beleive so

 

Be sure to use green plastigage using the old rod bolts with new rod bearings when you check rod clearance. New rod bearings will be on the tight side of acceptable spec.

 

ok will do thanks

 

Sorry, was three sheets to the wind last night, leave out the reference part. Back when I was new on this forum one person from on the redline forum did exactly that with a vacuum barb drilled and tapped into the back of the bypass pipe on the manifold. His measurements were used in math in the same thread we debunked a few stating an M90 swap was a good idea.