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I’ve been reading as much as I can find on the all Forums with regards to LSJ Ecotec engines. I was hoping to rebuild my engine since it’s low on compression and I have huge blow-by. With a a healthy LSJ does the PVC system produce so much oil you need to have a Catch-can? If so which system would be best, I see ZZP offers a breather for the oil cap or other offer a -10 oil cap were you can install it to a Catch-can? I was hoping you could answer some questions about the best place to get a LSJ Head Ported and Polished and angle grinded? Which shop would sell the best camshaft for a LSJ platform(I was looking at the ZZP stage2 cam)? Which pistons would you say are best? Would I benefit from getting a size bigger Exhaust valves installed in my head??My application is a rear engine open air caged Baja Bug that will have fresh air moving over it to keep it cool.. Running plumbing through fire wall with -8 and -16 AN fittings and hose The CBM Harness layout on engine using MEDI4b Pulley layout, i need to I stall an ilder pulley under ALT to get it to contact it and then run around power steering pump Kennedy Flywheel 8 bolt LS1 Throttle body V-8 paper enclosed air filter inside the cab My LSJ Baja Bug
Hello I’m using a LSJ Ecotec engine in my Baja Bug. It has a stand alone harness and ECU is using the MEFI4b. I have a;
Return style fuel rail,—•
42lbs Green top injectors—•
58psi fuel pressure on Regulator set with boost hose off,—•
It has a LS1 throttle body, 75mm—•
Spark plugs a step Colder(32 gap)–•
It has a 2.9 pulley on the Supercharger,—•
It has a huge V-8closed intake(Donaldson paper)air cleaner filter,—•
I’m running a power steering pump on engine,—•
I have a huge CBR 3 line Radiator up front with 2-12” fans programmed to turn on at 180* from ECU,—•
Heat Exchanger is located up front stock HC is using -8 AN fittings and hose,—•
Dual pass for Heat Exchanger,—•
I have 100ppm pre-filter and a 20ppm Filter post fuel pump,—•
It’s based on Open-Loop system my MAP sensor is located on the boost tube off of intake manifold,—•
3” headers to 2.5 muffler,—•
Once we got engine running it was running really rich, so we reset IAC, and TPS sensors and it ran at 850rpm and TPS angle was about .2%. I was trying to figure what else to do to adjust fuel enrichment but no luck. I took it to the Dyno Shop here in Santee and they did a compression test and #1-65 #2-60 #3-120 #4-90 and they they said there was to much blow by coming out of the breather filter so they didn't want to do any work on it. I'm not 100% sure that the blow by is all the pistons since I have a remote oil cooler that holds a quart of oil and about 5' of -8 lines so I have about 8 quarts total inside. I was going to do a leak down test and verify it is the pistons before I begin tear down. I've tried to look for a good used LSJ engine but everything has way to many miles or not a true 8 bolt crank.
I've looking into getting a new LSJ head with 82lbs valve spring new keepers and a stage 2 cam, ported head as well and some JE, Diamonds or Weisco 9-5-1 forged pistons.
ZZP parts list;
Pistons Forged,
Balance bar neutral,
82lbs valve springs,
Stage 2 cam,
LSJ Head port and polished,
ARP head studs,
Valve cover new gaskets,
Connecting Rod bolts,
LSJ Head gasket,
I’ve got a few questions with pistons and stage2 cam for my Supercharged engine. Would it be best for me to tear down engine and physically view piston before ordering them, the engine runs and I can drive it but after about 20 mins of driving the plugs get fouled and engine turns off. And I was wondering how much oils comes out of a healthy LSJ engine from breather filter, mine just spews oil out.
It's been a long road(5.5 years building car) but I quess I'll be doing a engine rebuild.
Question what would you think a LSJ ecotec with
Forged pistons 9-5-1—•Not sure best brand ??
Neutral balance bar replaced with smooth ones—•ZZP
Ported head—•Not sure best brand??
82lbs valve spring—•ZZP
Stage2 camshaft—•Not sure best Brand?
LS1 Throttle body—•
42lbs injectors or maybe upgrade to 60lbs injectors—•
for 1 you need to run the lsj belt setup and tensioner the belt is a double sided 6 rib belt im sure you can get a power steering pulley made to fit
then you need to ditch the valve cover breather as it allows un metered air into he system
pull the engine get the sleeves replaced then get a set of 10.5 to 11.5 pistons made diamond pistons or cp pistons can handle it run e85 for fuel you will need a set of 80 lb/hr or bigger injectors
get a set of k1 or mloner rods
get the crank keyway extended and the complete rotating assembly balanced
as for the head look up josh billenhimer on facebbook he specializes in porting ecotec heads
keep your cams and springs
look up Jason widdowson on facebook and get his single pass manifold
on your oil cooler setup your -8 lines are to small you need to run -10 as that is the factory size
KR2 35" class 10 tires? Very cool. What tranny and how is it built? What clutch? When you gut a stock AC compressor it loses 7 pounds and retains the stock belt orientation. Kartec has electric power steering kits and everybody raves about electric steering. Most run those stupid 1:1 ratio steering boxes and need power steering. RBP made me a custom ratio box so I'm manual. Nothing like manual steering if you have the right driving position, steering wheel size, spindles and box ratio. Too much work for most so they hang anouther 100 pounds of crap on their cars and loose all the feel. My Pcv has zero oil fwiw but if it did I'd listen to the guy above. Did your motor suck dust? Even CBM says to run an oiled filter and to never clean and reuse "cleanable" dry filters. Throw them out when dirty. They are one time use despite what they say. AFE makes a bitchin 7 stage oiled filter if you search the diesel off road truck filters you may find one that fits your housing. I run the 9"X11" on a 4" intake tube and it's kept the inside of the intake spotless for four seasons. I clean it with Tide and use the AFE synthetic filter oil. K&N oil is veggie oil. Cool car. Good luck!
Here you can see the stock belt with gutted AC. I just droped mine in a new chassis. Nobody makes an aftermarket AC delete pully and the brackets to fab one will be complex. The consensus is to gut the factory AC. The stock class desert cars use a PS pump but they can't run a supercharger and don't have a problem with belt routing. You're belt needs to be perfect in order to turn the SC without slip. Not saying your setup can't be done but I've never seen it done.
for 1 you need to run the lsj belt setup and tensioner the belt is a double sided 6 rib belt im sure you can get a power steering pulley made to fit I can’t run the stock LSJ tensioner since it will hit the Aftermarket Powersteering Bracket, I need to Fab up a way to hold a 2” idler pulley after the ALT...
then you need to ditch the valve cover breather as it allows un metered air into he system my System is a Open loop System and does not have the MAF sensor, what would be a better way for the engine to remove the PCV that builds up inside if I delete the Valve cover breather??
pull the engine get the sleeves replaced then get a set of 10.5 to 11.5 pistons made diamond pistons or cp pistons can handle it run e85 for fuel you will need a set of 80 lb/hr or bigger injectors
get a set of k1 or mloner rods
get the crank keyway extended and the complete rotating assembly balanced
as for the head look up josh billenhimer on facebbook he specializes in porting ecotec heads
keep your cams and springs
look up Jason widdowson on facebook and get his single pass manifold I’m going to stay with my Supercharger, so I would like to use a 9-5-1 Pistons(Forged).....
would my LSJ Rods and Cranck be sufficient for a 350HP built??
ill Run this Build in the Dunes and Desert and long Pre-runner trip way south of the border, not sure of the available sources for E85 Fuel..
im not sure of the conditions of the sleeves the engine with still start and idle 860 to 890 fine so I’m hoping to just remove stock pistons and clean up cylinders and get new pistons and rings(which would be best for this application)?
not sure how to look up getting the key way extended or sure what this would do(bigger Damper)??
thanks for the resources on the Port n Polish I’ll contact them( ZZP or like wise venders would not be a better source??)??
the camshaft and valve that came stock are better to keep??? Is this your advice???
on your oil cooler setup your -8 lines are to small you need to run -10 as that is the factory size
I’ll need to redo my lines then in order to keep oil flowing
thanks for your time
KR2 35" class 10 tires? Very cool. What tranny and how is it built?yes the tires are 35” with A Kennedy adapter plate for a 091 that will not hold this build so I’m talking with Transaxle vendors to see whinch one will stay together over whoops and jumps and demands of Offroad What clutch?It’s a Kennedy Stage2 but I think I’ll need to upgrade to a Stage3 puck style clutch... I’m looking at a Mendolea LQ-6 Speed sequential ... When you gut a stock AC compressor it loses 7 pounds and retains the stock belt orientation. Kartec has electric power steering kits and everybody raves about electric steering. Most run those stupid 1:1 ratio steering boxes and need power steering. RBP made me a custom ratio box so I'm manual. Nothing like manual steering if you have the right driving position, steering wheel size, spindles and box ratio. Too much work for most so they hang anouther 100 pounds of crap on their cars and loose all the feel. I have a 2.5 Howe power steering system in this so the turning will be awesome( rob Horse power)My Pcv has zero oil fwiw but if it did I'd listen to the guy above. Did your motor suck dust? No the engine didn’t suck dust I bought it off Craigslist 7 years ago and just barely got around to starting engine( 7 years ago I didn’t a compression test and all were 170 to 175)Even CBM says to run an oiled filter and to never clean and reuse "cleanable" dry filters. Throw them out when dirty. They are one time use despite what they say. AFE makes a bitchin 7 stage oiled filter if you search the diesel off road truck filters you may find one that fits your housing. I run the 9"X11" on a 4" intake tube and it's kept the inside of the intake spotless for four seasons. I clean it with Tide and use the AFE synthetic filter oil. K&N oil is veggie oil. Cool car. Good luck!
Thanks for your input... this build is a big longer and heavier then a Class10 but will do just fine with my set up ... I hope
I’m still trying to read as much info on the sport and polish of the head and who can do it with the best performance and longevity of this dirt toy. I’ve gotten some good leads and the only vendor I see that will sell a P&P Head is ZZP..
I’m not sure after reading Mrbelvedere input if getting a Stage Camshaft or heavier Springs is a good idea...
I want to keep this platform and built off it and enjoy it for years to come...
whats the most Horse Power you can have in an Offroad LSJ Ecotec engine that will be driven with care and pushed to caution but enjoyed???
the stock pcv system is the best way to keep it so it you pull a vacuum on the crank case on the external pcv line on the back of the valve cover remove it and weld a -10 fitting in place of the fitting and run a -10 line to a good air/oil separator not some pile of **** from ebay either go look at moroso they have some great parts and there really is not enough tables in the pcm to run speed density correctly so put the maf back in play and to a maf/speed density blend up to 3000 rpm then go maf only
on a blower engine you raise the compression so you can keep the blower in its efficiency range and that keeps the blower temps down and cooler denser air makes more hp/tq and the increase in compression the engine will also make more hp and tq you will need to run good fuel in it keep the cams also
ditch the rods put a set of zzp rods in it or manly or cp rods run a the h series clevite rod bearings ditch the stock sleeves as they are a weak point also
the stock key is not very long and not very much of it is in the dampener and the drag from the blower will shear it any decent machine shop will know how to extend the key way and be able to cut a piece of 3/16s key stock to fit the crank
get an ati overdrive dampener to replace the stock piece
the reason I say replace the sleeves they are made out of a weak iron material and will have a increased wear rate when pushed and they also flex so with those factors you will start loosing ring seal when that happens you loose power and increase blow by
its a bug it cant be that hard to steer once moving if it is get the right manual steering box on it keep the stock belt routing and belt style the blower takes a lot to turn and will smoke a belt rather easy
there really is not enough tables in the pcm to run speed density correctly so put the maf back in play and to a maf/speed density blend up to 3000 rpm then go maf only
he isnt running a stock computer, he runs an MEFI 4b, hence the cable drive throttle body.
i do agree though, running the factory pcv valve is the best, with a -10 or -12 to a good catch can, and the other side of that catch can to the air intake. my reasoning for going back to the air intake is that little k&n isnt offering much protection for sand getting into the crankcase, not compared to that giant expensive filtration setup.
the belt setup is something you cant compromise on with a supercharger. the factory tensioner setup works very well and these setups have no belt slip issues. myself, i would try to modify the power steering setup to work with the factory tensioner. if thats not possible, id look into an mr2 electric power steering pump. one major benefit of that would be not having to run high pressure hoses front to back, it can be mounted right by the steering box.
you mentioned wanting to make 340hp, is that an at the flywheel number or at the wheels? most info you will find on the ecotecs are at the wheels, these engines rarely end up on engine dynos. 340 flywheel is somewhere around 295-300 wheel in a cobalt. its do-able with a stock blower on pump gas, but e85 would be much better. you could also run pump gas with a water/meth system.
as already mentioned increasing the compression will help make the power while keeping the blower efficient, the old theory of low compression for boost is a myth. how high, again, depends on your fuel. myself, i wouldnt go above 10:1 on pump gas alone, but mr belvedere might have some different thoughts on that, and he has more experience with that sort of thing than i do (at least with ecotecs). as he mentioned, put some better rods in it, stock crank will be fine (they are a steel crank), i would eliminate the balance shafts. you likely wont break a sleeve at this power level, however ring seal could be an issue, imo see what sort of shape the sleeves are in now before deciding, id although id bet they are quite tapered and out of round with the poor compression numbers.
up top, a porting the head will help a lot, im not sure who is doing ecotec heads aside from zzp. if your mefi system doesnt use the cam sensor you can get cams right from comp, if it does use it get them from zzp or ottp. comp cams doesnt correctly index the cam sensor drive so you end up with problems on a stock computer.
he isnt running a stock computer, he runs an MEFI 4b, hence the cable drive throttle body. the Stand alone MEFI is not the most efficient but it will allow it to be used on an engine for this application. I have the software to change parameters But at this time I don’t have a MAF or a O2 sensor installed in my ECU... later done the road once I have some time on it I’ll tune it for different usage.
i do agree though, running the factory pcv valve is the best, with a -10 or -12 to a good catch can, and the other side of that catch can to the air intake. my reasoning for going back to the air intake is that little k&n isnt offering much protection for sand getting into the crankcase, not compared to that giant expensive filtration setup. I’ll get a -10 bung and weld it on to the Valve Cover and get a Catch Can that’s well built
the belt setup is something you cant compromise on with a supercharger. the factory tensioner setup works very well and these setups have no belt slip issues. myself, i would try to modify the power steering setup to work with the factory tensioner. if thats not possible, id look into an mr2 electric power steering pump. one major benefit of that would be not having to run high pressure hoses front to back, it can be mounted right by the steering box. I already have the Power steering unit installed and high pressure lines and AN Fittings installed from front to rear and a Power steering fill can that has a filter on it. These offroad builds would be very difficult to control with 86” track width and 110” wheel base and 20” of Travel on 35” tires.. as soon as you hit a rock or a hole the steeling wheel would get jerked out of your hand ....on a straight VW beam car it would be possiable because Tire size is 28” and very then. I know I can fab up a bracket, just hooding there was something already made...
it will be a task to get it made once it’s done I’ll have to find a 6 rib belt to do want I need.
you mentioned wanting to make 340hp, is that an at the flywheel number or at the wheels? most info you will find on the ecotecs are at the wheels, these engines rarely end up on engine dynos. 340 flywheel is somewhere around 295-300 wheel in a cobalt. its do-able with a stock blower on pump gas, but e85 would be much better. you could also run pump gas with a water/meth system.
as already mentioned increasing the compression will help make the power while keeping the blower efficient, the old theory of low compression for boost is a myth. how high, again, depends on your fuel. myself, i wouldnt go above 10:1 on pump gas alone, but mr belvedere might have some different thoughts on that, and he has more experience with that sort of thing than i do (at least with ecotecs). as he mentioned, put some better rods in it, stock crank will be fine (they are a steel crank), i would eliminate the balance shafts. you likely wont break a sleeve at this power level, however ring seal could be an issue, imo see what sort of shape the sleeves are in now before deciding, id although id bet they are quite tapered and out of round with the poor compression numbers.
up top, a porting the head will help a lot, im not sure who is doing ecotec heads aside from zzp. if your mefi system doesnt use the cam sensor you can get cams right from comp, if it does use it get them from zzp or ottp. comp cams doesnt correctly index the cam sensor drive so you end up with problems on a stock computer.
key My ECU does use the Cam Sensor
i would like to get a good head and port and polished and new valve springs and camshafts but I may not be understanding the post above with regards to just keeping certain things stock.
Thanks for your time and input
I have freinds that like to "pound the whoops" and they break transmissions. Pounding whoops is like muding your 4wd. Every beginner wants to do it but it ruins components. Just like the dunes. All the slow drivers in very expensive fast cars want to hang out at the hill that is whooped out to show how fast they are. One problem is the drive shafts cannot plunge in the CV very well when under so much throttle. That puts all the pressure on the tranny side bearings and such. I take valve lapping compound and run the CV inner race (star) over the axle splines to polish it. Make sure any axle spline dings from previous CV breakage is filed clean. Paint the axle splines with antiseize. The 6 speed sequential you are looking at is huge and will be $20,000 by the time it's installed. You will need heavy 934 CV's and axles as well. You may have to back half the car to get it to fit. Look at the Mendeola HV-24 or HV-25 unless your racing and need 6 gears. You won't get as many recomendations for it because it's still new but my buddy put in one of the first ones behind an LS and drives like a maniac. Just don't get suckered into a 2D. They are not much better than the 091 that you have. Probably 12 grand by the time your done for an HV and it can come with a Chevy bell housing and clutch. If you are running anything other than a Proam shift then get one. They make them shift like a rice rocket and save trannys. I ran a puck clutch on my Kennedy pressure plate. I broke the tranny main shaft in 4th gear. You can have my almost new disk if you want it but I say go with one step below it. You need some give on the hard hits. A puck stays locked and then bad things happen.
I have freinds that like to "pound the whoops" and they break transmissions. Pounding whoops is like muding your 4wd. Every beginner wants to do it but it ruins components. Just like the dunes. All the slow drivers in very expensive fast cars want to hang out at the hill that is whooped out to show how fast they are. One problem is the drive shafts cannot plunge in the CV very well when under so much throttle. That puts all the pressure on the tranny side bearings and such. I take valve lapping compound and run the CV inner race (star) over the axle splines to polish it. Make sure any axle spline dings from previous CV breakage is filed clean. Paint the axle splines with antiseize. The 6 speed sequential you are looking at is huge and will be $20,000 by the time it's installed. You will need heavy 934 CV's and axles as well. You may have to back half the car to get it to fit. Look at the Mendeola HV-24 or HV-25 unless your racing and need 6 gears. You won't get as many recomendations for it because it's still new but my buddy put in one of the first ones behind an LS and drives like a maniac. Just don't get suckered into a 2D. They are not much better than the 091 that you have. Probably 12 grand by the time your done for an HV and it can come with a Chevy bell housing and clutch. If you are running anything other than a Proam shift then get one. They make them shift like a rice rocket and save trannys. I ran a puck clutch on my Kennedy pressure plate. I broke the tranny main shaft in 4th gear. You can have my almost new disk if you want it but I say go with one step below it. You need some give on the hard hits. A puck stays locked and then bad things happen.
Thanks again for your insite... I’ve chosen to go with he HV-25 with all REM polished gears, and the internal oil system to bath he gears from overhead. It will be set up for a LS in gears. I’m redoing my rear trailing arms and getting Mid boards installed and new 934’s all race prepped and ready. Getting need 33 spline axles. I’m sending my Pro-am shifter to Weddle and they will adjust it for the 5 Speed. I order a Chevy LS bell house thinking in the future it may be nice upgrade. Weddle sells a 13” clutch for the Chevy bellhouse so it will be a sweet set-up.. that’s funny r your help. Looking for a good lower end LSJ block just removed my head and the cylinders are all done no beuno..
anyone know of someone selling a good used LSJ lower block with good cylinders and maybe forged pistons... I just removed the head and the cylinders are no good.. Cylinder toast Look at block after head removed Haven’t takin out piston so not sure what caused this flatness of cylinder Head seems fine haven’t had a chance to inspect it She wasn’t happy I took Her Top OFF...
The block can be resleeved but if you need a block, talk to mongorat427.
From the info I've read it would be around 1000$ once you ship it and then get the service and new cylinders correct??
Who would everyone use to get this preformed and what sleeves?
I was reading that most would object to using Dalton is this correct?
Thanks again for your insite... I’ve chosen to go with he HV-25 with all REM polished gears, and the internal oil system to bath he gears from overhead. It will be set up for a LS in gears. I’m redoing my rear trailing arms and getting Mid boards installed and new 934’s all race prepped and ready. Getting need 33 spline axles. I’m sending my Pro-am shifter to Weddle and they will adjust it for the 5 Speed. I order a Chevy LS bell house thinking in the future it may be nice upgrade. Weddle sells a 13” clutch for the Chevy bellhouse so it will be a sweet set-up.. that’s funny r your help. Looking for a good lower end LSJ block just removed my head and the cylinders are all done no beuno..
Those will be pretty tall gears for an LSJ. These things have no power below 2200 rpm but will cruise in the low 5000 RPM for quite a while. Most of the LS cars are geared for 120-130. They burn out second and third grear and rarly hit fourth. Some guys stick it in 2nd or third and leave it because the rest of the gears are useless. My buddy just went thru it.
This was his second because third was high and he rarly hit fourth. He beat 2nd to death. I think he said his car could go 140. BFD We rarely see 90 and so what if your at 6000rpm for a minute.
Call Bob Finders at RPB manufacturing for your hubs and axles. He makes them for a lot of companies. Tell him Mike with the SC ecotec rail said hi. We run all his parts including ligtened CVs. He is making 2" hollow spindles, a steering box, axels and hubs for my new car. He knows his **** and was the one that invented the micro stub. He rides with our group and even raced Baja. Gun drilled 300m or solid cromo. He makes the axles however you want and it will be cheaper because he is the manufacture.
Those will be pretty tall gears for an LSJ. These things have no power below 2200 rpm but will cruise in the low 5000 RPM for quite a while. Most of the LS cars are geared for 120-130. They burn out second and third grear and rarly hit fourth. Some guys stick it in 2nd or third and leave it because the rest of the gears are useless. My buddy just went thru it.
This was his second because third was high and he rarly hit fourth. He beat 2nd to death. I think he said his car could go 140. BFD We rarely see 90 and so what if your at 6000rpm for a minute.
Call Bob Finders at RPB manufacturing for your hubs and axles. He makes them for a lot of companies. Tell him Mike with the SC ecotec rail said hi. We run all his parts including ligtened CVs. He is making 2" hollow spindles, a steering box, axels and hubs for my new car. He knows his **** and was the one that invented the micro stub. He rides with our group and even raced Baja. Gun drilled 300m or solid cromo. He makes the axles however you want and it will be cheaper because he is the manufacture.
@Thxs for the info and the contact info...I really liked this LSJ even though I never got to run it for more then a few minutes at a time... unless I can find a LSJ block for super cheap this Ecotec May just be sitting awhile.... hopefully someone has a good condition LSJ with great condition sleeves and I can rebuilt it...
From the info I've read it would be around 1000$ once you ship it and then get the service and new cylinders correct??
Who would everyone use to get this preformed and what sleeves?
I was reading that most would object to using Dalton is this correct?
Darton is a no-go. Lots of bad stories from their sleeves on Ecotecs.
I’ve read that you had or still have a line of sleeves you install, do you still offer this service??
How much is it to resleeve an LSJ engine and redeck it and a General shipping price??
im looking for any avenues to try and safe this engine...
thxs for your time
05-01-2018, 05:12 PM
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