JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

So I got my new GM LSJ Clutch Upgrade from CED installed. New clutch, friction plate, throw out bearing, and clutch pipe. Install went smooth for the most part. Now that I have everything re-installed I can't seem to get my clutch to bleed at all.

I used GM Performance Divisions directions and they say to vacuum bleed the clutch from the Master Cylinder. I hooked up my vac and held it at 15Hg for 15 minutes. Pumped the clutch about 10 times and nothing. Held at 15Hg again for 5 minutes, then pumped another 10 times, nothing. I have done this about 5 times now and am starting to think that either I am doing something wrong, or something was not installed right.

I have read some posts about people having this problem but don't seem to find a conclusive answer. Some people don't vac bleed to start, some people say something about the ZZP adjustable clutch rod, then some don't give an answer.

Here is one question, should I have to open the clutch bleeder screw on the d-block at all?

Brakes are working fine, slave is seated correctly, plenty of fluid.

Any help would be much appreciated.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

when you cac bleed it you got to open the bleeder port to get the fluid pulled to it then you can manuly bleed it

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

So that's all I need to do... open the bleeder on the d-block and continue vacuum bleeding from the master cylinder?

CobaltVenomSS

iTrader: (2)

are u not getting any pressure in the clutch??? if so mine did the same thing and i had to call/email CED about it....turns out the throw out bearing they sent me was bad so i had to wait another week while they sent me another one

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

if you open the valve for the bleeding, and you vacuum it , you need to verify that your clutch pedal is up while you let some fluid seem through the system so you can vacuum, then when ou have fluid coming out then seal it back up then put 15 hgs and open the valve to suck air bubbles while you have the clutch pedal pushed down. if you still have no fluid verify that the master cylinder piston is seated to the clutch pedal, i hope you understand what i am saying lol.

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

I pray that is not the problem. Everything is installed and I seriously don't want to do this again.

I am going to try opening the bleeder tomorrow and see what happens. I just have absolutely everything put back together so it wont be as easy to get to that bleeder.

Should I try bleeding from the screw on the d-block instead of vac bleeding from the master?

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

yup once you get fluid at the block on the transmission do it manualy and keep an eye on the fluid level the wrench sisze is a 9mm for the bleeder

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

haha. Yea somewhat. Would the master cylinder piston come undone from the engine/sub frame being lowered?

CobaltVenomSS

iTrader: (2)

is there any fluid leaking when u are bleeding the clutch??? my TOB had a bad seal on it

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

Not that I can see. I cleaned the inside of the d-block so had some excess but nothing that looks like brake fluid.

Plan for tomorrow is:

-Try vac bleeding from the master cylinder with the d-block bleeding screw/valve loose.
-Try bleeding from the d-block screw/valve with nothing on the master cylinder.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

leave the master alone bleed only from the block on the tranny

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

I might try that to start actually. I feel like it will take less time to get the fluid going that way opposed to vac bleeding to start. Once started I will probably end with the vac bleeding, just to make sure there are no air bubbles.

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

Here is the guide I used for the install:

http://www.gmperformancedivision.com...SJ_Chap5&6.pdf

TonyTuna

I had the same prob your having but i had a leak or something at my throw out and had to take the whole ****** apart several times. Anyway long story short i took mine in to make sure it was bled correctly but after lots and lots of reading the easiest way is to either manually bleed from the slave cylinder bleed screw or (wut a GM master at my shop did that i didnt have the patience to do) is put a vacuum on the slave cylinder bleeder screw.

Good Luck

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

I wiped all the excess water off and put some cardboard under it for the night. Tomorrow I'll know if there's something leaking.

For those of you who vac bled, how many times did you have to do it to start feeling pressure of the clutch peddle?

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

So I tried both ways and am assuming that my clutch is air locked.

When I loosened the screw on top of the trans I had maybe a couple ounces of fluid come out then nothing. Pumped the clutch maybe 100 times.

My brakes are fine though, anyone know what I have to do to get this air lock out of my clutch line???

SCcobaltSS

iTrader: (2)

I dont want to question your intelligence or anything but you are using the buddy system for this right? (someone pushes the clutch down, you open then close the port, then they release the clutch) Or something to keep the clutch down as you open then tighten it right? You are not just opening it, then pumping it continuously, then closing it are you?

JoshuaVnyrd1817

iTrader: (1)

I was using a vacuum with it open. Some reason it took about 150 times till I got the air lock to give way.

Finally got it bled. Wow don't want to do that whole process again.