I have a OTT H/E, installed it last summer. I am running both the stock H/E and the OTT H/E. When I do pulls my IAT2 climb and climb and only after I let off do they fall back down. Does this make sense? Should my IAT2 drop as I am doing pulls? Is it possible that I have it install wrong and the coolant is running in the wrong direction or something of the nature?

Thanks

 

how much are they climbing? and what are they starting at?

 

120 to 140 through 1st 2nd 3rd gear so up to around 160km

 

No they should not drop, would be nice if they did but they don't. That is a acceptable amount of movement for the iat2

 

Okay I wasn't too sure... I am second guessing myself about the install.... Is it possible to plum it backward or something like that ? Does anyone have a diagram with the stock H/E used?

 

if everything is plumbed backwards, it still works fine . Its pretty hard to mess it up really. Ideally, the only thing to ensure is that coolant flows through the stock HE before flowing through the after market HE

 

yeah thats fine!.. if it gets anywhere around 160.. back off

 

wow. jordan you need option B. IAT's increasing under WOT is just retarded

 

Read what lsj said,the higher you push your car the hotter it will get but the h/e will not let it get as hot as if you were just running the stocker.Example:I did 3 races on the highway back to back and after the 3rd run my iat's were at 149.On the way back home cruising at 70 my iat's went back down to 115*.

 

boost equals heat

 

were you being serious? of course they will go up when your in boost. as long as they dont go too high your fine.

 

first off, i have never owned a supercharged vehicle. my knowledge is based off of turbo's where BAT's drop when WOT. second, i am an ignorant, import driving, rice burning *******. anything i say has no value to you anyways, so flame away. lol.
anyhow... i have researched liquid to air intercoolers for my own car quite extensively, and i realize there are differences, but most of the same theorys apply to the H/E portion. you should be running closed coolant loop systems (a.k.a. option b right?) using fluids designed for H/E's (i.e. water wetter w/ distilled h2o). the few pictures i've seen of option b setups have all had GM coolant in them, which im sure works, but does your **** really need freeze protection all summer long? i realize blowers are exposed directly to engine heat, but it seems to me krazycobalt's setup has shitloads of room for improvement, starting with option b and better coolant.

so i should race cobalts best 2/3 since i get faster each run while they get slower?

 

No, if you do a pull your IAT2's are going to rise. Depending on how much boost is being used, the rise of your temps will vary.

I'm running the OTT H/E with distilled water/water wetter. My IAT2's usually hover about 15* above ambient. And after a hard pull, they will climb anywhere from 30 to 50 above ambient. But as soon as I resume cruise, they fall back down to the normal operating temp.

 

those are better temps. krazycobalt was starting about 35* above ambient and worse from there. if my car saw those temps WOT it would **** bricks and pull so much timing i couldn't beat a honda lawnmower

 

Your comapring a turbo to a s/c thats the problem.

 

Sorry if i came off harsh man,didn't mean it that way.Was just explaining why the iat's would rise

 

Hmm... I guess I should consider Option B.... Is that really going to make a difference though (without Option B)

 

If I understand correctly, option B gives you the ability to hold more coolant which in turn takes your car longer to heat soak because there is more coolant in your system. I'm sure there are more benefits that that from it too.

 

so option B is still tied in to the factory coolant system? that sucks.

 

yeah the ideal way is to use vulcan turbos flow thru tank, flow coolant thru the tank, rather than letting it just sit there like the option b, also has a big enough opening for dumping ice in it for the track runs

 

that vulcan tank is nice. add a bosch coolant pump to that and you've got yourself a proper H/E setup.
ice is always good too. one of the speed3's in the states running a custom L2AIC with an icebox can get his BAT's 5-10 degrees below ambient. wouldnt that be nice?
and does anyone make insulating gaskets for the supercharger? kinda like this....

 

or look up hatrickstu mod. you can either make it yourself or buy a kit from him. might be cheaper then the vulcan box

 

The problem here is that you start to get to the point where you are straining the pump. Our H/E pump is a volume based pump. IMO I feel it is best to run a H/E and option B while removing the stock H/E.

 

if you are worried about heat get meth. when i was tuning for meth, i has the cobalt addiction h/e with the stock h/e, 1 step colder spark plugs and 50/50 water/meth hookded up. I **** you not, i did about 30-40 pulls on the dyno, had 1* of knock, changed a few things then 0* knock. Cant remember exactly but the iat were around 120* pretty much all night, cant remember tho..but i know it was really low. Started at 6:30pm and called it a night at 1:30am. H/E does a good job but not good enough, there is no wrong way to hook it up, it does the job either way but get meth, lowers iat and you can add timing

 

yes the self bleeding is a biggie as air in the system makes it awful and water for sure is way better for cooling. So option B for sure takes care of bleeding air. And Redeer,( I will be passing thru red deer tomorrow !) dont mind the forum flames there are many wackos on here . The issues of cooling an lsj like wannabe points out are a whole difference scineze compared to Turbo...