I figured the fans out , and thought I could just add power to the 87 terminal of the intercooler relay to give it power too . But no deal . The pump seems to speed up with the engine revs , so is the intercooler relay just powering something else that actually powers the pump .

Yes I could cut the power wire directly at the pump , but I dont wanna . I wanna just power the relays thru the fuse box and put a switch on the fuse box cover so I can run the pump and the fans in between rounds at the drag strip .

~or , does anyone have a copy of the complete intercooler pump wiring circuit ?

Thanks

 

and what is your theory in doing this modification?

 

faster cool down between rounds im guessing

 

Just pumper the 30 and 87 terminals
Works for fans too
Wop

 

Air flow is a better way to cool down. get the fans on. that can be set with HP Tuners pcm software by the way. maybe the coolant pump can be controlled from there as well? I dont know the answer to that.

 

Thanks Wop on tour , I will try that . For the fans , I just supplied power to the 87 terminal of the fan relays , and they fired up without the engine running . I tried that method on the smaller intercooler relay , and it didnt turn on , so I'll try what u said .


Im doing this , because it works to cool off the car qwickly without sitting there heatsoaking. If u have a scan tool , watch the IAT2 temps while the car is sitting there off . It heatsoaks enuff to get up to 150* plus . With both fans running and the pump circulating the temps wont climb one bit . Plus with the amount of air our fans move ( Im impressed ) it will also cool the blower housing and manifold .

SSnipes- Both of my fans are set to run all the time thru HPtuners , you cant however , set the fans to come on when the engine is off .

I got the idea from Rob , by doing this his intercooler didnt heat soak at all , and after a very short time his blower and manifold was cold to the touch . To where mine was still hot enuff to burn yourself after a 1/2 hour of sitting . I didnt think Id have a prob with any of the wiring , so I never asked him how he got the intercooler on .

 

Well last summer I did a complete schematic and instructions for a rewire in order to be able to control the fans and CAC pump with a dash mounted switch.(for both the Redline and the SS/SC) It's posted over in the Redline forums (the upload cap over here prohibits PDF files larger than 19k for what ever reason)

BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)

I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)

Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour

 

Thanks for all the info bro . Very helpful . Last night at the track I did just end up jumping the 30 and 87 terminals and putting a on/off toggle switch on each jumper . It worked fine . I didnt do it on the Cool/serpa relay though , as I didnt know what that was . I have to go back though , intially both fans came on the way I wired it , but at the track only the passengerside fan would fire with the toggle ( yet both fans DO work fine with the car on ) Its gotta be something in my wiring . For the fans I took 87 terminals on both relays , and the 30 terminals on both and ran them to 1 toggle switch . I will go back today and fuse them , and separate the fan 1 and fan 2 relays with their own toggle switch , and jumper the cool/serpa relay .

 

I just did this, really easy to do but I have a question. I jumped the intercooler pump to a toggle swich no problem. I tried to just jump the Fan 2 and that turned only the passenger fan on high speed. When I jumped Fan 1 seperate both fans came on low speed. But when I jumped them together, once again only the passenger fan came on full blast. Is this a result of not jumping the cool/serpa relay?
I attached a couple pictures for viewing pleasure



Either way, right now I have it set to run both fans on low and the intercooler pump on when I flip the two toggles. I can't wait to try it out at the track. I saw IAT2 temps up to 183 degrees last time!!!!!!! This with a couple other mods should help bring those temps down!

 

If you dont jumper the Cooling/SerPa relay (providing a ground path actually) the fans are hooked in series and run at 1/2 speed only.
Wop

 

Someone call the fire dept.

 

LOL
Hopefully he has fuses in there somewhere...
Wop

 

Oh, fuses are overrated. Maybe the small fire I started will teach me otherwise. LOL

 

I have the IC pump wired into the fuse then through a switch. There is power feed in the UBEC that you can tap into to supply power to the switch.

The fan is grounded thru the relay like you have it. There are 2 relays, low speed and high speed. Supply the gnd (via the switch) to the high speed relay.

Call me monday at the shop if you need more help.

 

what is the fused jumper that you are referring to?
what does it look like?
where to get??

thanks

 

Just buy 4 "inline" 10A fuse holders or 1ft of 20awg fusible link wire from ANY automotive parts supply and solder the correct terminals on each end of the wire
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.

Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack

*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour

 

Awesome info WOT. I was just going to look into doing this.

Thanks.

 

great info....
do you have any schematics or pics of the RL fuseblock jumpered?

also, I can't quite figure out what you've done with the booster pack and battery there, where and what is the knife switch that you are referring to?

thanks

 

The Redline details are all posted over in the Redline Forums.
http://www.r edlineforums.com/forums/tuning-electronics/4649-how-wire-fan-switch.html
(Remove space in link)
(server wont let me upload anymore here due to reaching my upload limit)
The knife switch is the green colored knob you see in the pics at the negative battery terminal.
Wop

 

i did mine a couple of weeks ago and this works like a charm. wop knows what he is talking about and if you follow the directions there are no problems. an awesome mod to do to help in the pits.

mine are all hooked to switchs. i will try to post the pics in the next couple of days

 

Can so i can just remove the relays, put the wires in place then put the relays back in with the wires hooked up through a switch and a fuse?

 

No if you jumper the relays as outlined and pictured in the posts above the fans and CAC pump will run 100% of the time (even with the key OFF) You just leave the relays OUT. (It was meant as a temporary mod for out at the track.) The instructions for wiring the fans/pump relays up to a switch (that wont set DTCs) is posted over in the Redline forums.

I cant upload anything over here anymore due to upload limits
Wop

 

wouldn't happen to have the link to the switched setup would you?

 

If you upload through the Gallery you have unlimited uploads. It just has to be one of the supported file types.

 

on the redline forums you kept saying you took out the full instructions and replaced with jumper instructions only...... can you clarify on that