How much boost can a stock lsj block cylinder walls handle
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How much boost can a stock lsj block cylinder walls handle
Trying to figure out how much boost the cylinder walls can handle safely in the 2.0 lsj engine is getting arp head studs zzp ported head and forged internals I'm switching from the stock supercharger to a procharger just trying to get a feel for how much boost I should clock the charger for
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Trying to figure out how much boost the cylinder walls can handle safely in the 2.0 lsj engine is getting arp head studs zzp ported head and forged internals I'm switching from the stock supercharger to a procharger just trying to get a feel for how much boost I should clock the charger for
#10
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It isn't so much the actual amount of boost but about the amount of HP and heat that you are creating.
The stock block itself is rated to 400HP; 800HP if it is in perfect shape, i.e. no cracks, porosity, or imperfections, and it is properly sleeved for that amount of power.
The stock block itself is rated to 400HP; 800HP if it is in perfect shape, i.e. no cracks, porosity, or imperfections, and it is properly sleeved for that amount of power.
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They don't sell a kit for it I've got a kraftwekrs procharger and am fabricating all the brackets and everything for it I was planning on running 20psi to start and see what it likes the most, just didn't want to run a harrop and fight heat soak and everyone and their mom has a turbo so decided to change it up
#13
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It isn't so much the actual amount of boost but about the amount of HP and heat that you are creating.
The stock block itself is rated to 400HP; 800HP if it is in perfect shape, i.e. no cracks, porosity, or imperfections, and it is properly sleeved for that amount of power.
The stock block itself is rated to 400HP; 800HP if it is in perfect shape, i.e. no cracks, porosity, or imperfections, and it is properly sleeved for that amount of power.
what it boils down to is this any stock part left in the engine is a weak point(minus the crank) even with a closed deck the stock sleeves are what will give up and the tune better be spot on as the stock sleeve will not take a lot of detonation and cylinder pressure
someone did a procharger setup years ago lack luster results
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you are right and wrong the stock sleeve ir more of a weak point then you think and most block breakage happens from the sleeve letting go if you run a better sleeve you make the block stronger to a point closing the deck or pegging is the best solution with better sleeves
attention should be paid here
the stock block was never really rated that I know just peoples educated guesses
what it boils down to is this any stock part left in the engine is a weak point(minus the crank) even with a closed deck the stock sleeves are what will give up and the tune better be spot on as the stock sleeve will not take a lot of detonation and cylinder pressure
someone did a procharger setup years ago lack luster results
attention should be paid here
the stock block was never really rated that I know just peoples educated guesses
what it boils down to is this any stock part left in the engine is a weak point(minus the crank) even with a closed deck the stock sleeves are what will give up and the tune better be spot on as the stock sleeve will not take a lot of detonation and cylinder pressure
someone did a procharger setup years ago lack luster results
#17
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Heat issues...? People have pushed the gen 1 block over 500whp reliably. What are your hp goals? If it's more than that upgraded sleeves (which have been used and test by many) from Mr.B would be your best option unless you want to go with a gen 3 or girdled block just because.
#21
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only issue we've had with the dartons is having headgasket sealing issues. never had a problem with overheating though. but machine shop that did my buddies car had to redo them 3 times due to the block being damaged in shipping so who knows whats up now. Going to drop the motor at some point over the winter and check the deck and head for straightness, arp 625 studs, stock hg and some copper spray and hope the bitch seals at 40psi
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only issue we've had with the dartons is having headgasket sealing issues. never had a problem with overheating though. but machine shop that did my buddies car had to redo them 3 times due to the block being damaged in shipping so who knows whats up now. Going to drop the motor at some point over the winter and check the deck and head for straightness, arp 625 studs, stock hg and some copper spray and hope the bitch seals at 40psi
#24
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Why are you doing pre turbo meth? I don't like the idea of spraying a lot through the turbo and if you don't spray a lot it gives the chance for the air charge to heat back up if the piping is long