I need a recipe
 

Okay, right now I'm looking through my options at performance recipes.

My objective is to have the fastest and still reliable cabalt I can make. (Within reason) I'm not looking to spend 10 grand, but 5k isn't out of the question. This will be an on going up grade....(I don't have the money riht now but I'll have junks of it over time etc....)


I was thinking....
Intense Stage 5 (60 lbs, 2.5", ported blower)
Cams
Pistons
Head
Full Exhaust
Intense Suspension Package
Eibach SPrings
Intake
Obviously a tune...


Any and all help and advice.....other recipes, etc etc....

Thanks

first of all do you have another car you can use???

and second of all if u could get about 400 horse would u find a way to get 10g??

So 400hp = 10g? Care to give a shot at detailing that out? How much of that would be heavy custom work?

Yeah I'm going to get a beater truck for the winter, and I'll be able to go without my car the entire winter..

Could possibly do 10 grand. But that's a lot....

the GM build book tell u how to build are motors good for 1600 hps

so buy the book and read it

says alot of good things

Don't you have to start with the 2.2 drag block for that? Wouldn't going through intense, plus a few other vendors be easier?

just buy the intense stage 5 and get it tuned. call it fast, and reliable. and keep the rest of the monety in your pocket

i believe so. but alot of the parts are interchangable so maybe not

it seems that with the stock blowers topping out at 280whp and the lack of a bolt on upgraded blower, that a turbo would be the best option to make more power. IMO if ur gonna spend like $5000 and top out at 280whp or even 300whp, you could spend less or the same and make a lot more power

well even doing a turbo u would need axles and a clutch which is kinda pricy

This will probably be what I end up doing. Forget the pistons cams/internals.

I just don't know if it will be enough

One thing I would like to see tried is someone doing their cams/valvetrain and raising their redline to about 8k, with a 3" (16k on S/C), 2.9" (16.55k on S/C), or really risky and a 2.85" (16.84k on S/C).

Since the 2.5" that people are using with a 7k to 7.1k redline spin the blower up to 16.8k ~ 17.04k, it should hold up well. Of course, porting/polishing of the S/C would be essentual. You would need bigger than the #60 injectors that everyone is running, since the LSJ seems to suck down fuel at an accelerating curve as you extend above 6.5k.

But Damn, can you imagine the power band on that sucker. It would get torque up about the same or a little faster than GMPP Stage 2, but be able to extend it out longer. Specially with some head work.

See i kinda want to do something different and new. Just no NO2 or Water/Meth. DOn't ask me why I don't want those, but i just don't...

alright after talking with mev at jbp

2 months of down time

pistons
cams
cam gears
engine work to add horse and make it withstand 450 horse atleast 50 hp= about 4g
head stage 1=1g stage 2=2g adds 10+ percent which would equal atleast 30hp

then on with the fun stuff

2.5 pulley=100
60# injectors=200
cai=250
cti header and dp and exaust=1150
hp tuners=500

i figure with just those mods you could get close to if not past 400 horse easy


supporting mods
spec 3+clutch and fidanza flywheel= 1g
400hp axles from intense=700

after i figure all that if u go with the stage one head it equals 8900 with stage 2 9900

correct me if im wrong but this setup is obtainable and i will be going this route...

400-450 is about the limit for a reliable daily driver even with all the supporting mods i could get

i have worked with victory red and mev from jbp for some of this setup so i know halfway what im doing :twothumbs

Clutch and something to control wheel hop man.

their will not be any wheel hop with this set up. just wheel spin. their is so much power on that set up. i dont even have wheel hop with my intense stage 3. just spin.

wheel spin sucks too. so how about something to get the car to stick.

and once wheels spin is fixed, you get hop again, so what are you gonna do then.

even thoe a 2.5 inch pulley is pretty much maxxed out on the blower that dont mean 20-22 psi isnt alot of boost! i know turbos are different 22 psi on a turbo is different then 22 psi on a blower but what im gettign at is: the head on are car doesnt flow very well anyways! so if you just got your head ported and polished and then ran 22 psi i bet your gains would be dramatic! that is why the ecotec likes to blow head gaskets once you get high in the hp (read build book)

I say

port polish head and blower
2.5 inch pulley
hp tuners (tune air fuel ration, plus up the timing, and up the rev limit)
60 pound injectors
cams w/ new valves springs retainers (Cams have different lifts and such which could cause valve to fail)
front mount heat exchanger dual pass
dual core intercooler (not out yet)
intake, exhuast, header

call it a day and know yoru fast :guns: ide estimate 350 whp easy i am going this route in 2 years ;) once car is fully paid off

you my friend will learn to love spinning at the track! i got my best time of 13.6 with spining all of first and half of 2nd! i cant get anything lower than 13.7 when i dont spin :twothumbs

but i also think its because of these 17's i got my bro cant spin for shit

I would like to interject here and bring some reality to this thread. First off, if you are wanting 400hp+ and you have to ask us how to make it, you have a lot of research to do. Before you even attempt this you need to really study up on the strengths and weaknesses of this car. Also you should study some basic and then not so basic methods of adding power to a car. In short, do your homework yourself, then if you have questions ask around. The territory you are shooting for is unexplored here so no one really has the answers you want.

Secondly, doubling the hp of a car will NEVER be reliable. You may be able to get some big ponies out of it but when you go pushing it, things will break. This car was not built for that kind of power.

Third, if you want this kind of power why do it on a FWD car? I know this part is going to get me the most flak here but it doesn't make sense to me unless you are going to race it in a specific class, then I understand. However if you want to drive this on the street you will never use 400hp, nor will you ever get 400hp to the ground with this car in street trim and if you try you will just hurt yourself and someone else potentially.

Finally, if you really go through with this save up double what you are going to spend because THINGS WILL BREAK! Again, this is unexplored territory so who knows what's going to break at 400hp. We all know at hp levels slightly above stock the axels and clutch are no good. There are a lot of other componets that may break with 400hp. I would say that you may want to just go ahead and replace everything in the driveline. It may be safe to say that if it's a moving part, replace it. That's the only way to make it "reliable".

Dreamer......I note your concern for my competency, however, if you read my original post, I'm looking to make the fastest reliable car....I said nothing about 400 horse.

My objective is to have something that throws me back in my seat, and know that I've covered all of the bases with the performance mods, so I DON'T have to save TWICE the money becuase I HAVE done the research, and I've built the fastest RELIABLE car.

If the only way to be reliable is just the stage 5 kit from intense with bolt ons, so be it. I am doing my research etc etc, more importantly I'd like to see what everyone suggests. I'll most likely do

60 lbs (new harness)
2.5 pulley
ported blower, machined snout
tensioner for the belt....
port polish head
intake
header w/dp
exhaust
tune
clutch
axels (may or may not need)
possibly new fuel lines
short throw shifter
springs
suspension pckg
torque dampner

and appearance/audio stuff.

my next step would be to then decide which brand/company to get the parts from

I can't think of anything else...

thank you for your concern my friend but for my personality i like being or having something be one of a kind

as in how many people are going to be pushing 400-450 horse out of a cobalt??? less than 1 percent

that also means its a perfect sleeper

yes my way to get there is going to cost more than 10 grand...

after all my research i figured around 12-13

but to me it will all be worth it and i am making it so its a reliable car

i figure you can be different and take risks but in the end its all worth it....

otherwise if ur not much of a risk taker go with the stage 5 and good luck

For 10Gs you can buy a 10 second car from Racingjunk.com. and it would be RWD not FWD.

Wow for 10gs i could have an 8second cobalt WTF??? just kidding!!!

Heres what you do
go buy a used 2.4L whippel of kenbell 2k
Intence axels 800
Clutch 750
pistons 400
get the race cnc ported head gmpp 1400
springs reatiners 600
i would say about 6-7k after evrything and you would be able to make annywhere from 350 to 750hp

and you wont need to get your block modified till 500 hp