Japeatr's knocking at the track rebuild thread
09-12-2014, 12:17 AM
#126
That port style has been proven over and over again by multiple people and companies. The port I do is a combination of proven styles that I refined. Every blower I do is done on a cnc jig and is identical to the next one. I have dyno graphs, hpt logs, any many extremely pleased customers proving my work. You, on the other hand, have nothing more than an ignorant opinion. If you didn't want to "get into it" you would have kept your mouth shut.
When you have data to back up the armchair physics you so proudly slosh around the forums, try again. Until then, screw off. Maybe with your **** holster zipped you'll learn a thing or two.
When you have data to back up the armchair physics you so proudly slosh around the forums, try again. Until then, screw off. Maybe with your **** holster zipped you'll learn a thing or two.
Your'e one of the few people on this forum that can cut a gaping jagged hole into the outlet of someones supercharger, tell them to put a smaller pulley on it, and then have them awstruck when they make more power. lol
09-12-2014, 12:20 AM
#127
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Maybe you should sell your design to eaton and show them a thing or two how to make superchargers the RIGHT way.
Your'e one of the few people on this forum that can cut a gaping jagged hole into the outlet of someones supercharger, tell them to put a smaller pulley on it, and then have them awstruck when they make more power. lol
09-12-2014, 01:04 AM
#128
Im not going after him, i merely responded to his post. Trust me, its quite clear that if he told the people on this forum that shoving a 12" ***** up their asses while racing would help balance the center of gravity of their cars, you all wouldnt be able to get those things up your asses fast enough. I actually contacted magnuson a couple months back about port outlet differences between eatons oem blowers and the mp series without the silencer ports and they specifically stated that their outlets were designed for optimal efficiency over the oem units. And your gonna sit here and call what i say "broscience" when this would be magician of the forums makes up his own magical shape and design for a supercharger with two dyno sheets as evidence and no airflow dynamics or ANYTHING even remotely close to what is used to actually engineer a supercharger feeds you nonsense? Gimme a break. Lol dont derail japeatrs thread anymore then if thats all you got.
09-12-2014, 08:05 AM
#131
Maybe you should sell your design to eaton and show them a thing or two how to make superchargers the RIGHT way. Your'e one of the few people on this forum that can cut a gaping jagged hole into the outlet of someones supercharger, tell them to put a smaller pulley on it, and then have them awstruck when they make more power. lol
Your'e one of the few people on this forum that can cut a gaping jagged hole into the outlet of someones supercharger, tell them to put a smaller pulley on it, and then have them awstruck when they make more power. lolThe port is a gain in effeciency. Easiest to thing of as a percentage. The harder you are pushing the blower past it's leak efficiency range, the more the port helps. The dyno was done with the same pulley and swapping blowers while strapped down. Can't get any closer than that to a great comparison. I did NOT tell people they have to drop a pulley size to get a gain. So shut you slander laden mouth. What I said was that the smaller the pulley, the bigger the gain, I.e. The farther you're pushing it past it's efficiency range, the better this can help being it back.
90% of my customers keep the same pulley size. And every single one has shown a logged increase in airflow with a nice drop in iat's.
For your absurd "sell it to eaton" comment: The stock blower is optimized for the stock pulley. So maybe you should go sell smaller pullies to eaton, since they did that wrong too? In a post that still exists here, years ago, an eaton rep himself said that there could/would be gains to porting the outled when running these blowers as hard as we do.
So in summary, you need a pin poked into your ego. I have the data and the customers. You have some cracked opinion and one of the biggest egos on this site. Everywhere you post, it's a "hollier than thou" attitude.
Next time you want to slander someone, get your ******* facts straight. Or your ass will be out of here.
1: those welds are barely acceptable. And welder worth their torch would know that. The cast alum gm/Saab used is very porus and internally dirty, making it very difficult to weld.
2: full Saab kit? Ask any stage2 kid that's spent 5 min in a turbo thread. That's a horrible idea. Go somewhere and learn. But ahhhgh you can't, you're smarter than everyone else.
3: one of the high pressure turbos... Come on asshat. Learn some actual terminology. Not like any "high pressure turbo" will work with your full Saab kit anyway.
You really are an ego filled ignorant *****, and that's all there is to it.
Last edited by armcclure; 09-12-2014 at 08:16 AM.
09-12-2014, 08:15 AM
#132
the oil cooler setup on these cars was more for emissions then anything the faster the engine gets up to x temp the faster the emissions systems go into effect and the less tail pipe emissions is spent the 2nd thing the oil cooler tries to do is to keep the oil at a specified temp to help reduce burn off (emissions) the stock oil cooler puts a heavy demand on the cooling system for someone wanting to build I high performance engine should either get the oil cooler completely off of the cooling system the more hp you make the more heat your will make the easiest thing to do id to mod the oil cooler adapter with -10 fittings anything smaller will starve the engine of oil
weld to -10 fittings on the stock mount for the oil cooler openings remove the O-rings though you will need to use a -10 45deg fitting on the back port for hose clearance
this the one I use to pre oil engines that is why 1 port is plugged
pulling the oil cooler of the cooling system is like putting a bigger radiator in the car so no need to buy a bigger radiator by putting the oil cooler up front your pulling more heat out of the oil so you will have less burn off and by utilizing the stock mount you keep the oil cooler thermostat in place which will help warm the oil up quicker(for those worried about it) and it will help keep the oil temp more consistent now you do not want the oil to be to cold either it can cause engine damge the same as if the oil is to hot so when going with a front mount oil cooler setup bigger is not better on the cooler core call and ask those who make the coolers for what your doing
I did a air to air setup for an scca racer by the end of the session he would see 270 to 290 deg coolant temps he was also running a craig davies radiator and waterless coolant by removing the oil cooler he was able to run a stock radiator with water and water wetter now after his his end of race temps were 200 to 205deg temp outside 95deg
when im at the track my coolant temp drops off really fast it will drop into the high 160s low 170s on a pass where as before it would slowly climb
here is my cooler it is a tad to big but it was the closest to the size recomended
weld to -10 fittings on the stock mount for the oil cooler openings remove the O-rings though you will need to use a -10 45deg fitting on the back port for hose clearance
this the one I use to pre oil engines that is why 1 port is plugged
pulling the oil cooler of the cooling system is like putting a bigger radiator in the car so no need to buy a bigger radiator by putting the oil cooler up front your pulling more heat out of the oil so you will have less burn off and by utilizing the stock mount you keep the oil cooler thermostat in place which will help warm the oil up quicker(for those worried about it) and it will help keep the oil temp more consistent now you do not want the oil to be to cold either it can cause engine damge the same as if the oil is to hot so when going with a front mount oil cooler setup bigger is not better on the cooler core call and ask those who make the coolers for what your doing
I did a air to air setup for an scca racer by the end of the session he would see 270 to 290 deg coolant temps he was also running a craig davies radiator and waterless coolant by removing the oil cooler he was able to run a stock radiator with water and water wetter now after his his end of race temps were 200 to 205deg temp outside 95deg
when im at the track my coolant temp drops off really fast it will drop into the high 160s low 170s on a pass where as before it would slowly climb
here is my cooler it is a tad to big but it was the closest to the size recomended
Last edited by mrbelvedere; 09-12-2014 at 09:03 AM.
09-12-2014, 09:46 AM
#136
09-12-2014, 02:11 PM
#140
ok, so going to do the cooler differently, but still removing the coolant.
cutting the mounting plat off the core and welding the fittings there. this does 2 things, ability to revert back to stock oil cooler if needed, and saves me time and shipping of my other piece to Alan.
only downside is it retains the O-Rings but that is not really a big deal.
cutting the mounting plat off the core and welding the fittings there. this does 2 things, ability to revert back to stock oil cooler if needed, and saves me time and shipping of my other piece to Alan.
only downside is it retains the O-Rings but that is not really a big deal.
09-12-2014, 09:38 PM
#142
Cams arrived today, john can i ship me head and rest of my parts to you and just send me an assembled motor? I realize ill have to get some additional parts but worth it to me for time these days
Also im still searching for solid lash adjusters but low on luck
Also im still searching for solid lash adjusters but low on luck
