jrsmith

Hey guys, so I figure i'd start documenting some of what i've been up to.

Around a year ago I bought an 07 Ion Redline w/competition package. It had a Stage 2+ setup and pulled pretty hard but it had low compression in 2 cylinders (previous owner didn't hide anything)

Mods as purchased:
Stock Internals
Phenolic Intake Spacer
ZZP 2.9 Pulley
60lb injectors
Headers w/ custom downpipe
ZZP dual pass end plate w/ second heat exchanger
Tuned (not sure what)
Strut tower bar
upgraded mounts

New Setup:
New John Walters Sleeves
Diamond Forged Pistons (9.5:1 Part #10101)
LNF K04 Turbo/O2 Housing/downpipe/crossover pipe
Factory Intercooler w/ ZZP turbo adapter plate
Turbosmart Boost Tee
Turbosmart Kompact dual port bov
OTTP CAI
HP Tuners (I'll tune myself)

Engine bottom end is completely done. I've recently mated it back up to the tranny and rolled the subframe assembly under the car. I left the head off so I didn't have to remove the bumper, etc.

Car as purchased


Engine Bay day before yesterday. Since the picture was taken I finished hooking up the thermostat housing & oil cooler. Head will be next.


More to follow...

slapbetcommissioner

iTrader: (3)

Interesting project.
How come you decided to go k04?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Built enigine and k04? Whaaaaa


Looks good though.

jcobaltss

If your engine is built why not just go zrf?

jrsmith

Cheaper, less work, and I can still easily upgrade down the road.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

Work load is exactly the same. Cheaper sure. I wouldnt of wasted any money on a k04 setup. Its not worth it honestly. But good luck with your build.

FLASH1970

looks like a nice build. always liked the redlines. careful with the factory intercooler. they tend to crack. do you plan on going for a lot more power in the future?

jrsmith

At this point i'll just be glad if it runs and drives lol...once i've had it for awhile and get a feel for the car and engine i'll be able to say more. I anticipate having the car for a few years so I imagine the upgrades will continue.

Head is on and torqued. One thing I noticed is that there are two gouges in the aluminum where the intake manifold bolts on...is this a concern? I carefully filed the peaks down, but am wondering if putting a bit of gasket sealer in the gouge right by the port would be appropriate.





I have to say it was very nice of GM to include a plug where I can install the coolant return for the turbo. I thought I was gonna have to use the lnf thermostat housing which doesn't have the extra lines for the oil cooler.

Area47

all the torque, none of the horsepower.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Put some rtv on the head and you should be alright

jrsmith

Timing chain & front cover are on, along with the valve cover & exhaust manifold. I've always had difficulty with exhaust bolts so I cleaned the threads (with a die) & used a bit of copper coat. Hope it doesn't cause any problems.

The oil return is something i'm trying to resolve now. I bought the zzp oil feed & return kit for the LSJ, but the bolt holes for the oil return flange are too far apart to fit on the K04. I drilled the holes out a bit...do you think this should be ok?

jcobaltss

hmm so no need for lnf thermostat housing? will lnf coolant crossover tube fit on the lsj thermostat housing?

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

Yes it will

however i would like to note that the port you are trying to use for coolant return is slightly further away from the turbo on the LSJ housing than the one on the LNF coolant housing which if you plan on using the stock ko4 lines could be a problem unless you plan to make custom AN lines

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

this is the oil return flange i used but i used the stock lnf gasket and not the one that came with the fitting, i highly recommend it.
Billet Alumimum Turbo Oil Return Flange -8 AN KKK K03 K04 Hitachi HT12 | eBay
i also used a AN spacer to make it easier to get to the bolts
08an female to 08an male flare extension fitting black problem solver | eBay

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

the threads are always going to be a problem i ended up replacing the manifold studs and exhaust manifold studs with ARP studs and after that i never again had a problem
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...8003/overview/

jrsmith

I found a pic (below) that appears to show that the line fits, maybe with some gentle bending?

2017-01-15 Edit: Bending was required!

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

it might fit just fine as is, i was just pointing out it could be a problem but looking at the pic above it looks like it will work just fine

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

what are you planing on doing for the oil return?

jrsmith

I'm using the one that came with the kit for the time being. The bolt holes I modified fit almost perfect...I used some rtv and it's on and torqued.

jrsmith

Exhaust Manifold & turbo have been installed, along with the turbo lower brace. I've also raised the subframe/engine into the car.

I've left the O2 housing off for the time being as two of the studs were missing. I hope it isn't too much trouble to install with the engine in the car now.

One thing I should mention is I never knew there was a spot on the lower block (girdle) where I could drill a turbo drain. See picture below, it's right beside the black brace. If I had done this again I would have put the drain there instead of on the oil pan.

Axelthered05

iTrader: (9)

just for future readers, trust me this is coming from experience its not something that should be done with the block in the car, ask me how i know I have done this to two blocks. one in the car and one with the block on the drill press and trust me its so easy to make a mistake and have an unseal-able hole in your block, can it be done, yes. but better safe than sorry.

jrsmith

Regarding the O2 housing and the LSJ thermostat housing, the O2 sensor will not screw in unless one of the coolant lines to the heater core is moved. I bent it out of the way when it was in the car but you should probably do it before you install the engine as you could probably do a better job without restricting the line. It's going to be a summer-only car for me so I don't care too much but just an FYI.

You will also need to replace or modify the stock lines to fit the new position and keep the hoses away from the O2 housing. Also, one of the lines going into the firewall is a smaller size than the other one.

jrsmith

So the latest update is that things are getting pretty close. I've connected most of the wiring and hoses and installed the intake manifold with a brand new phenolic spacer. A few questions about routing houses.

Edit: nvm I think I figured it out. BPV & vacuum line both go to the turbo adapter plate, correct? And then the valve cover vent will go to the port on the CAI?

Oh and FYI to install the new pulley for the alternator you need a 17mm hex impact socket and the threads are reversed (right to loosen) you WILL need an impact gun (I have an electric impact which works great)

jrsmith

So my build is complete!! Car is running pretty good. Currently running around 10 lb boost until it's properly tuned. I found an LSJ turbo tune in the hp tuners database that had a similar setup as mine (3" exhaust + #60 injectors). Will start tuning once I hook up the serial input for my wideband. I'll post some pictures later but there are some important things that came up during the build that I want to mention.

1. Stock LNF or LSJ exhaust manifold gasket WILL NOT WORK. IT WILL LEAK AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT ALL APART. Get the ZZP LSJ exhaust manifold gasket, or another lsj gasket that covers up those small ports on either side of the exhaust ports.
2. For the alternator, you will need the 3 mounting bolts off a base model. Not sure what the part # is. You want the shorter base bolts so you can remove the redundant alternator bracket.

jrsmith

Intercooler piping


This is the proper gasket


This is where it was leaking using the lnf gasket