One Bad SS

Does it can hurt something, because i hear a lot of good thing about the ngk Brk7e that are 1 colder range and help to dissipate heat better then the platinum, do you recommend this cheap mod or im better to keep my stock one until i made some mods like CAI, exhaut ...

Jekyl

i think that ur sig is really f*cking big haha

One Bad SS

i made a little ajustment thanx

CobaltSS422

They work very well. Car runs very smooth

One Bad SS

any other ??

memphisr24

I don't know...I haven't heard of anyone putting one range colder plugs in on a stock car. They usually do it with a pulley.

BooSSted

iTrader: (3)

I am going to get them today.

Is that you car in your sig?

One Bad SS

does it can hurt something or just be preventive for the detonation in the hot period

PauL500x

Aren't the NGK platinum more expensive, so shouldn't they be better?

InfinityzeN

More expensive because they last alot longer compared to the copper ones and platinum is alot more expensive than copper. Doesn't mean it performs better though.

knatsabooh

may void your warranty if you change them .... Thats what i was told. what are the stock plugs anyway?

CobaltSS422

Stock plugs are NGK PFR6T. They are sitting on my desk because I just changed mine out

Mike's SS

Unless you are getting any knock that is causing kr (knock retard) and you are pulling timing then you wouldnt need to go colder, this can be checked with autotap, a scan tool, or an interceptor gauge. Ive got ngk bkr6e stock heat range copper plugs in my stock car and it seemed to smooth the idle out a little and I get no knock. If you put too cold of a plug in you will lose a little power.

Xenozx

What do you think about the IX Iridiums? any benefit of those at stock heat range?

are our stockers copper?

TXRLU

I'm running a 3.1 pulley, at what size pulley is everyone recommending going to a colder plug?

CTCOBALTSSS

Xenozx, don't get the iridiums. They're not for us stock or not. Go with the NGK 7's. I have had no issues with them.

Jmc007

Heve you ever tried them ?

TXRLU

I found this on NGK's website, seems rather informative.

Heat range

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage

SS_Supercharged

I use Iridiums in all the engines I build. The colder heat range is ok for warmer months but in the winter you want the stock heat range for cold start and plug fouling. If you do any serious mods and are going racing you will want to use 2 or 3 heat range colder plugs.

Dezod

Either NGK Iridium or Denso Iridiumon an FI car will help immensly. Iridium has a much higher melting point than most other metals used in plugs, which makes it a great candidate for high temps from turbo.