noisy INGALLs TD
It's been super frigid up here in Chicago.... my INGALLs TD is soooo freakin noisy below 30 degrees... it sounds broken!!! The colder it is the worse it sounds....
anyone else have this problem??? |
Originally Posted by suburbanrobot
(Post 817491)
It's been super frigid up here in Chicago.... my INGALLs TD is soooo freakin noisy below 30 degrees... it sounds broken!!! The colder it is the worse it sounds....
anyone else have this problem??? |
i hear the same frekin thing, here in akron its been below zero for 2 days and everytime I start up drive it sounds like sqeeking, or metal grinding, but after the car has ran for awhile and warms up it seems to go away...
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Same here, it's cold outside here, and sometimes it makes a loud clunking noise.
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Below 30 or so mine squeaks a bit till the engine gets warm . You oughta hear it now that its been below 0 for a few days , lol ...it squeaks , creeks and makes all kinds of noises when its that cold on almost every bump :D
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Originally Posted by Video2402
(Post 818072)
Same here, it's cold outside here, and sometimes it makes a loud clunking noise.
you got it!!!! I get the loud clunking:thumbsdow and lots of creakin/squeekin .... sounds bad!!! OK it's not just me!!! what to do now????? anybody have a fix? any suggestions?
Originally Posted by OneFast20
(Post 818009)
i hear the same frekin thing, here in akron its been below zero for 2 days and everytime I start up drive it sounds like sqeeking, or metal grinding, but after the car has ran for awhile and warms up it seems to go away...
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awesome, i'm not the only person that's noticed this. :) isn't it the most horrifying sound ever? (well, maybe besides paris hilton singing) ;)
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Metal grinding sound? I don't think it's the damper's internals, our forged plunger cannot physically reach the side of the damper body. The shaft (yeah, yeah shaft, stiffy...) is also restricted from reaching the inside of the main seal/cap. Metal on metal sound leads me to believe it's something else in that case, but everything else is/could be the damper.
The creaking, clicking, popping are all caused by the shrinkage in the rubber caused by the cold. Our design makes it so the damper is heated by the engine and the heat will bring the rubber back to original design parameters. This takes a little while, but driving a sports car just after initial start up is a bad idea anyway. Our offical response at Ingalls is wait for the car to warm up and drive normally. If you can't wait for the engine/damper to reach operating temp then you can try to increase the preload, but as the car warms up the damper will act like it would with more proload (read: more vibrations). Dan @ Ingalls Engineering (email: DanJ@IngallsEng.com) |
i do let it warm up to ~100-115 degrees before i ever leave my parking spot, but on those -15 degree nights, there's not a lot we can do: i pretty much just grin and bear it. it's a small price to pay for such a high-quality product. as with most modifications on autos: there is always a downside to every part on the market. CAI's give you colder air but are prone to suck up water. 3" exhaust is less restrictive, but from what i understand, lowers your backpressure/low-hp torque. all things we must take into consideration when buying performance parts. the 'stiffy' (uh huh huh..i said stiffy) is an amazing product that i would never ever dream of taking off my car. :D
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sweeet.. i was gonna take my car to the dealer for it. i thought i broke sumthing over there. it makes a loud clunk when you get on the throttle. or off it fast. right?
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Its the Dampener, I took mine off and the noise went away. Its gets fucking cold up here -40 with about 20 mph of wind.
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Noise dosen't go away after warm up
Originally Posted by IngallsEng
(Post 819713)
Metal grinding sound? I don't think it's the damper's internals, our forged plunger cannot physically reach the side of the damper body. The shaft (yeah, yeah shaft, stiffy...) is also restricted from reaching the inside of the main seal/cap. Metal on metal sound leads me to believe it's something else in that case, but everything else is/could be the damper.
The creaking, clicking, popping are all caused by the shrinkage in the rubber caused by the cold. Our design makes it so the damper is heated by the engine and the heat will bring the rubber back to original design parameters. This takes a little while, but driving a sports car just after initial start up is a bad idea anyway. Our offical response at Ingalls is wait for the car to warm up and drive normally. If you can't wait for the engine/damper to reach operating temp then you can try to increase the preload, but as the car warms up the damper will act like it would with more proload (read: more vibrations). Dan @ Ingalls Engineering (email: DanJ@IngallsEng.com) So what should I do about my noisy Ingalls???? |
Hmm, take a measuring device accurate to half a millimeter (incase you weren't an ME major in college, use a ruler with mm markings on it) and measure from the edge of the damper to the top of the preload plunger. This measurement should be no less than 10mm and no more than 15mm. Most of the Cobalt people I have spoken with tell me that 11-12 mm is ideal for the SC models and 12mm is great for the NA guys. I would tell you to try the 11mm and see if that works for you. Obviously the vibrations in the passenger cabin are unavoidable when you place a force member like our damper between the engine and the chassis. But, clicking or popping tend to stem from the extremely cold winter most have been experiencing.
Good luck and feel free to email me with ANY questions you might have at DanJ@IngallsEng.com. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by IngallsEng
(Post 819995)
Hmm, take a measuring device accurate to half a millimeter (incase you weren't an ME major in college, use a ruler with mm markings on it) and measure from the edge of the damper to the top of the preload plunger. This measurement should be no less than 10mm and no more than 15mm. Most of the Cobalt people I have spoken with tell me that 11-12 mm is ideal for the SC models and 12mm is great for the NA guys. I would tell you to try the 11mm and see if that works for you. Obviously the vibrations in the passenger cabin are unavoidable when you place a force member like our damper between the engine and the chassis. But, clicking or popping tend to stem from the extremely cold winter most have been experiencing.
Good luck and feel free to email me with ANY questions you might have at DanJ@IngallsEng.com. Thanks. J |
I took mine off for the season until spring. I don't want these cold temperatures to do damage to my ingalls...
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Originally Posted by Mercury
(Post 820163)
I took mine off for the season until spring. I don't want these cold temperatures to do damage to my ingalls...
...if the temps are above 20 it does still act like normal and makes no noise with a warm engine . Mine is set at 11mm currently . |
Just a side note on these Ingalls TB .Where have guys ordered them from Dezod or Turbo Tech and have anyone had problems with either on geting this part.
This is going to be my next mod but I want to make sure that either one does not scew me over. |
i get the same noises as well as a grinding noise when i make left hand turns...and this is at any and all temps
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Originally Posted by BCobaltSS
(Post 823493)
Just a side note on these Ingalls TB .Where have guys ordered them from Dezod or Turbo Tech and have anyone had problems with either on geting this part.
This is going to be my next mod but I want to make sure that either one does not scew me over.
Originally Posted by sethallen
(Post 823751)
i get the same noises as well as a grinding noise when i make left hand turns...and this is at any and all temps
my noises occur at 30-35 degrees and below only... very noisey, NO WHEELHOP!!! |
bump
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Originally Posted by suburbanrobot
(Post 824402)
I got mine from DEZOD:twothumbs .... smooth, fast service>>> recommended A+++
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seth are you sure its your ingalls doing that? i had a bad wheel bearing from the factory that sounds like the problem you are having
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i had a topic about this a while ago. never actually took the ingalls off, but i was 90% this was the clunking/squeaking and a few members here had the same problem. this just verifies it..... although the original poster did not acknowledge my post
btw. this is the same post i had a while ago on rockymountanecotec wyomingbass ;) |
yeah nobody has said anything about it there....
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Originally Posted by ReMz
(Post 831833)
i had a topic about this a while ago. never actually took the ingalls off, but i was 90% this was the clunking/squeaking and a few members here had the same problem. this just verifies it..... although the original poster did not acknowledge my post
btw. this is the same post i had a while ago on rockymountanecotec wyomingbass ;) I am very sorry if I did not acknowledge your post.... my apologies!!!! can you repost (I don't want to dig through all the posts) your post? you can also e-mail me..... J
Originally Posted by sethallen
(Post 823751)
i get the same noises as well as a grinding noise when i make left hand turns...and this is at any and all temps
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