o2 simulators
Eh, Don't do it. Nothing like lying to the computer...
Find someone around you with HP tuners and your model year unlocked and have them disable to code and turn off cat-lightup
Find someone around you with HP tuners and your model year unlocked and have them disable to code and turn off cat-lightup
New Member
Joined: 10-04-06
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Layton Utah
ok guys lemme fill you in on a little secret . . .
Spark plug non-foulers.
O2 sensors work on the principle of heat and gas flow. Removing your cat alters the flow rate it is subjected to and also the heat it reads. If you make the heat and flow rates similar to when you had a cat everything is happy!
When I dropped the cat on my 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege I was in the same boat you guys are. I weighed the options of using CEL electrical wiring crap or instlaling something expensive or having someone crack my computer code. None of these were viable options. I came accross a thread on the MSP boards about using spark plug non-foulers as a mechanical fix for having no cat.
How they work:
The way the non-foulers work is to space the O2 sensor off from the exhaust pipe both in terms of heat and gas flow to the sensor. They are very simple to install and cost me about $3 total. They usually come in packs of 2 per package which is exactly what you want. You need to find the ones with threads that match the O2 sensor and a 1/2 to 5/8 drill bit.
Take one of the non-foulers and drill it out all the way so that the internal passage is 1/2 or 5/8ths in diamater. You should now be able to screw this directly onto your O2 sensor (when you remove it from the exhaust) so that it would be between the O2 and the exahust pipe. Take the second undrilled non-fouler and screw it on inbetween the first non fouler and the exahust pipe. The order goes as such: O2 -screwed into - Drilled Fouler - screwed into - Non Drilled Fouler - screwed into - Exahust pipe bung for O2 sensor.
What have you done?
You have removed the presence of direct gas flow and direct heat from the O2 sensor. This makes the sensor believe it is still downstream of a large object that blocks flow and blocks heat (read cat converter).
Does it work?
Like a bloody frikken charm! I drove my Mazda for over 8000 miles with this mod in place. Never once did I get a CEL or have any issues with my O2 sensor or engine managment computer. The engine knew it was breathing better, and could still properly use the O2 sensor for engine managment and cold starts etc etc.
Do it and you will never go back! $3 for all that is a bargin!
**Edit: Some of you may see I have 1 post and discount me. Do it if you want but I have an engineering degree and have built production sports cars for a living. The advice is solid and extreamly usefull. I have been lurking on CBSS.net for some time as my next car will be an SS/SC G85 and I wanted to know more about them, just have never posted before**
Spark plug non-foulers.
O2 sensors work on the principle of heat and gas flow. Removing your cat alters the flow rate it is subjected to and also the heat it reads. If you make the heat and flow rates similar to when you had a cat everything is happy!
When I dropped the cat on my 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege I was in the same boat you guys are. I weighed the options of using CEL electrical wiring crap or instlaling something expensive or having someone crack my computer code. None of these were viable options. I came accross a thread on the MSP boards about using spark plug non-foulers as a mechanical fix for having no cat.
How they work:
The way the non-foulers work is to space the O2 sensor off from the exhaust pipe both in terms of heat and gas flow to the sensor. They are very simple to install and cost me about $3 total. They usually come in packs of 2 per package which is exactly what you want. You need to find the ones with threads that match the O2 sensor and a 1/2 to 5/8 drill bit.
Take one of the non-foulers and drill it out all the way so that the internal passage is 1/2 or 5/8ths in diamater. You should now be able to screw this directly onto your O2 sensor (when you remove it from the exhaust) so that it would be between the O2 and the exahust pipe. Take the second undrilled non-fouler and screw it on inbetween the first non fouler and the exahust pipe. The order goes as such: O2 -screwed into - Drilled Fouler - screwed into - Non Drilled Fouler - screwed into - Exahust pipe bung for O2 sensor.
What have you done?
You have removed the presence of direct gas flow and direct heat from the O2 sensor. This makes the sensor believe it is still downstream of a large object that blocks flow and blocks heat (read cat converter).
Does it work?
Like a bloody frikken charm! I drove my Mazda for over 8000 miles with this mod in place. Never once did I get a CEL or have any issues with my O2 sensor or engine managment computer. The engine knew it was breathing better, and could still properly use the O2 sensor for engine managment and cold starts etc etc.
Do it and you will never go back! $3 for all that is a bargin!
**Edit: Some of you may see I have 1 post and discount me. Do it if you want but I have an engineering degree and have built production sports cars for a living. The advice is solid and extreamly usefull. I have been lurking on CBSS.net for some time as my next car will be an SS/SC G85 and I wanted to know more about them, just have never posted before**
Last edited by Horse; Jan 8, 2007 at 05:13 PM. Reason: no posts
New Member
Joined: 10-04-06
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Layton Utah
yeah I got mine from auto zone - they were the brand "HELP!"
They are usually used for 2-stroke things so that the engine oil doesnt foul the plugs.
Here is a quick CAD drawing I did of how it should go together. (sorry for the crappy quality I did it fast, and again - its HUGE I know - sorry)
Grey is exahust pipe.
Green is O2 sensor bung
Blue is undrilled fouler
Red is drilled fouler
Silver is O2 sensor.
this is the link that taught me how to do it, not sure if you have to be reg'd to do it.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123634664
**edited**
If you get the correct thread pitch for the cobalt everything should thread right up.
They are usually used for 2-stroke things so that the engine oil doesnt foul the plugs.
Here is a quick CAD drawing I did of how it should go together. (sorry for the crappy quality I did it fast, and again - its HUGE I know - sorry)
Grey is exahust pipe.
Green is O2 sensor bung
Blue is undrilled fouler
Red is drilled fouler
Silver is O2 sensor.
this is the link that taught me how to do it, not sure if you have to be reg'd to do it.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123634664
**edited**
If you get the correct thread pitch for the cobalt everything should thread right up.
Last edited by Horse; Jan 8, 2007 at 07:20 PM.
i was wondering the same. i think the only part you drill out is the very end of the first non fouler, and you dont actually touch the prethreaded part. you are just trying to give the end of it enough room to fit the O2 sensor through.
New Member
Joined: 10-04-06
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Layton Utah
Its really easy to see when you actually do it.
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