jonathan you do realize that the s20g go hit 30psi just fine, right? All you need to get to 400 on it is about 22psi and some timing...that is, like you said, with the right tune/tuner. Doesn't sound like that's pushing that turbo to its limits.

I want vids of this serious HP cobalt, when are you going to have some up Josh?

Yes put some videos up!

cams coming soon ;)

only been at it a couple hours but progress

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0447.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0448.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0444.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0445.jpg

btw whatever you take bolts off of, put them in labeled zip lock bags for what they go to. it'll definitely help out whoever buys your kit :lol:

^true that :lol: i forgot :/

That e85 on the s256et is addicting huh? What timing and psi are you on now?

^I did one better, after removing the parts I taped them to their original locations. I also labled everything and screwed the nuts to the bolts or the bolts to their locations. Was very thourogh and it added a lot of time.


So things I learned about our cars. Deep well 13mm will get just about every nut or bolt off our car. Its really funny, i didnt have a mess of tools to clean up tonight.

I unplugged a lot of harnesses hope I get them right when I put the car back together tomorrow. I am also going to remove the two little boxes on the right side of the engine (gas evap burn tube, and boost controller) what did you all do with these?

Changing fuel injectors is a cinch. (when you have the harness) about the only thing I did today besides tear down the supercharger kit and get it ready for shipping. I took part trade on the Hahn kit and some cash.

and even though my car had new york rust all over it, everything was removed clean with pb blaster and a big cheater pipe on the end of my 3/8" drive.

Alternator mods cost 10 bucks to weld up, the outside black part of the thing is not plastic so weld to it. Turned out strong. Made spacers out of larger grade 8 nuts until I can get some shorter bolts. Just needed to get the pulley and everything on there today. Went to my favorite exhaust shop and had them run 3 short beads on it.

I bought a tap for 3/8 npt to a JIC pressure fitting matching that of the hahn hose. It was 6 bucks, i drove all over town and finally found it at an industrial machinery place. Wait until you see the difference in flow. Hahns oil solution is garbage, its the size of a coffee stirrer, compared to my tap and 9/16 bit which the opening is about the size of a sharpie. Cost was 28 bucks for tap and drill bit (got a really good bit).

Spent another 100 bucks on 7 quarts of synthetic, filter, copper gasket spray, 2 tubes of RTV sealer, 2.2 belt, and some other odds and ends.

access hole through pass wheel well for bolting up new to me 2,2 idler pulley.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0453.jpg


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0455.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0450.jpg

Welded up alternator for hahn kit, belt, and 2.2 idler pulley. whole conversion for turbo was 30~ bucks.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0451.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...p/IMAG0452.jpg

you gotta go buy the 2.2 alt bolts, they will be way better than the spacers.

are you talking about the Hahn feed or return?

return, yeah I will get the 2.2 bolts eventually.

oh gotcha, im using a custom return from Forced Performance in McKinney, Tx

what did you all do with the stock boost controller and or the gas evap return (this is the box with the line that goes into the intake to burn off gas tank fumes).

OH and I called the guy I bought my Hahn 20g from and he told me the turbo had 6000 miles on it and was new from hahn just this past year. Apparently hahn had a great warranty program. I also got the revised/recalled intake manifold, the old one cracked. So the manifold I have from Hahn is brand new.

get rid of the boost solenoid. the evap tube still goes attached to your throttle body after the swap. i deleted my evap system though. was giving me too many issues

What evap issues were you having? I may be experiencing something similar...

blew up 3 evap purge solenoids, multiple evap leaks, crazy codes. fuck that. turned all the codes off and deleted the system

what psi are you running?

did you delete my system too?

Damn, I got nothing like that haha...


I swapped out the PCM with another one with ZZP's tune on it, car runs but it idles rough and is throwing a few codes, how long does it take before it re-learns and is running fine again?

25psi currently

Yeah think i will delete mine as well, 25 psi is where i want to be.

josh, correct me if I'm wrong, but when you say you "deleted" your evap, you mean that you ran your return fuel line in place of your evap line?

No, my return line is separate. My evap system is disconnected from the engine. I still need to rip out the charcoal canister and all the stuff out from under the car though

You have access to e85? 25psi is asking quite a bit out of normal pump gas. You're not going to be able to run any reasonable timing before detonation starts to occur

right, i dont have e85 until i move at the end of the year. are you on a 20g I am staying at 20 for the time being.

edit nevermind you are on a zzp turbo...