EXsoccer1921

iTrader: (14)

you sure you don't want zzp upper and lower piping and the saab intake manifold?

yes

correct. that was also with static 80s.

with the new setup we'll really be pushing the flow limits of a stock head. not to where power will just Plateau and won't make any more. but to where the car will be making substantially less than it would with a ported head.

slawson0042

Widow, I need some help.

Idk if you can diagnose this or not but my cruise control hasn't worked for some time now. All brake lights are good and no fuses are blown. If I turn it on and press set the cruise message pops up but then goes away. When I had this problem before it was a blown 3rd brake light. And ideas?

slawson0042

BLAZIN07SS

iTrader: (7)

upper clutch switch. hold the clutch pedal up while engaging cruise and it should work. switch goes bad after awhile

slawson0042

i tried that to.. never worked.

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

the SCIP code has to be turned off in HPT, so have MDUB do that for you. There isnt anything you can do to get rid of that code otherwise. Since you are turbo, that sensor shouldve been removed. I typically use Bosch o2 sensors, but Densos are usually good, if you just replaced it and it isnt working, you should be able to take it back to them, it is possible they gave you the o2 sensor from downstream and its not heating up like it is supposed to. Ho2s = Heated o2 sensor for future reference.

start with checking all fuses and relays.

does your steering wheel make any different noises than it usually does when you turn the wheel? does your other steering wheel controls function correctly? its possible that the clock spring in your steering wheel control is going out start with pulling your horn off and check all of the wiring there. take pictures of the removal and wiring and spring and post them up and I may be able to help with diagnosis.

Now Im going to rip my car apart... the BlkWdo gets LSD today

l8r,
PD

slawson0042

Everything functions normally except the cruise. And there's no blown fuses.

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

when did it start occuring? has it worked since you turbod?

l8r,
PD

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

I need some advice from all you turbo swapped LSJ's. I'm in the constant battle with myself which turbo to get 252et or 256et? Any opinions would be awesome

BlkWdoSS

iTrader: (7)

256et, you will be a happier turbo owner.

l8r,
PD

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

thanks for your input can i ask why besides more top end room to grow

jonathan923

iTrader: (2)

hey guys just wanted to say ill be no longer part of this crowd due to financial circumstances but am glad ive gotten most and the best turbo lsj's out there together. i'll be back to stock(slow i know) but am sure when the time is right ill be right back in here again as a LSJ-T. Thanks all for keeping this thread alive and feels good to have such helpfull people on this site

turbo lsjs ftw!

slawson0042

I seen your sale thread. I'm sorry to hear about that man. I hope things straighten out for you

slawson0042

Hasn't worked since I turbod. But I did have problems with it when I first got the car.

05Slowline

iTrader: (2)

that's the only reason i'd see why lol.
i have the 252et and love it quick spool and capable of more power than the stock motor can do so good enough for me.

jonathan923

iTrader: (2)

thanks bro. yea with some hard work hopefully things get better soon again. Ill miss the power thats for sure.

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

does anyone know the spool timing of the 256et? I don't really want a turbo that takes a while to hit full spool. Thats why im stuck between the 252et and the 256et

startingline05

iTrader: (3)

Any of you guys on e85 with your turbo setups? Just curious what kinda AFR your running at WOT.

startingline05

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hear that bro. Now let me jump in your for sale thread and see what kinda sales you are offering.

SCcobaltSS

iTrader: (2)

7.8-7.9:1 above 5000 RPM and it ramps from 9.23, I think, at 2500 when PE kicks in. I want to run around a 8.15 but need to get on the dyno to see the difference in power if any.

BLAZIN07SS

iTrader: (7)

your still in gasoline afr's with your aem wideband so your still shooting for the same afr on that gauge

CarTunezSS

Forgive me, im new to cobalts and superchargers, but familiar with everything else.

Why take off the SC? Why not just add the TC and let it feed into the SC? Is it because the SC is restrictive or past it's effective range at that point?

startingline05

iTrader: (3)

i wasnt really sure if i was suppose to be shooting for something different being that my wideband is still gasoline. 12.2 is where i am right now at WOT. i was reading i can switch my wideband to e85 but it also read it really wasnt recommended.

jonathan923

iTrader: (2)

its called twincharge, and its just full of headaches when it comes to tunning, and other issues which is why zzp stopped making that kit.

jonnymerk

A little update. I'm still getting knock any time I start to build boost. like 1.3-4.5 so Im goin to my shop to have them double check the meth. I had problems with them before on the install so we are checking again...I've also noticed I have hardly used any meth at all. I have the 2.5 gallon tank and its still only about 2 inches empty like after 2 months so....I hope they figure it out because I also decided to buy a diff turbo. My current is an ebay turbo with .63/.70AR and its too big for what I want. Full spool at 4,100 is not useful for what I want atm. A local shop recommended one for me that's a bit smaller and snappier but should still get me a peak of 400whp which is all Id want stock motor and it has a garret center cartridge.

I have to take the manifold off to fix the leak so figured now was good a time as any.

The knock is driving me crazy not really knowing what is causing it cus I've changed nothing cept my timing chain tensioner which went smoothly and this didnt happen till recently