Option B Problem.. Tank Fills up.
08-13-2013, 04:41 PM
#26
So I did the little trick of holding the Opt. B. tank above the motor... Didn't seem to do anything with motor on or off.
Rerouted the opt. B. black hose the way John has his. Shortened the length of the clear hose. Changed the T of the Opt. B black hose going to out of the so that the opt. B is vertical rather than horizontal if that matters.
Ran out and did two pulls. It's weird my pulls are ******* great. I went from 4k 2nd gear to bouncing limiter in 4th gear and a little bit into 5th and the car only saw 143*
A second pull doing the same confirmed this.
However.... again the recovery seems kinda slow and only gets down to about 100* IAT2's with IAT1's sitting at 76*
Now I suppose performance mods may matter:
E85, 80's, 2.7 M62, ZZP 3in Intake, Pacesetter Header, Full 3in Header back. That's about all that should matter. I see about 16.5psi on this set-up.
Rerouted the opt. B. black hose the way John has his. Shortened the length of the clear hose. Changed the T of the Opt. B black hose going to out of the so that the opt. B is vertical rather than horizontal if that matters.
Ran out and did two pulls. It's weird my pulls are ******* great. I went from 4k 2nd gear to bouncing limiter in 4th gear and a little bit into 5th and the car only saw 143*
A second pull doing the same confirmed this.
However.... again the recovery seems kinda slow and only gets down to about 100* IAT2's with IAT1's sitting at 76*
Now I suppose performance mods may matter:
E85, 80's, 2.7 M62, ZZP 3in Intake, Pacesetter Header, Full 3in Header back. That's about all that should matter. I see about 16.5psi on this set-up.
08-13-2013, 05:39 PM
#27
I think you don't quite understand what the iat's are representing.
Iat1 is ambient outside temperature. It's before the supercharger packs all the air in the intake manifold
Iat2 is after te supercharger has forced all that air at the intake ports. It heats up a fair amount when doing a pull.
Your recovery should be 15 seconds of cruising to bring your iat2's down to about 20 or so degrees above iat1. Going from redlight to redlight doing pulls will only result in heat soak and very slow recovery.
I suggest you find a stretch of open highway and do a pull and cruise right after the pull and see how long it takes your iat2's to come down. They aren't going to drop fast or anything retarded like that, it will be a steady decline like 2 degrees every second or a little longer than a second.
Also, if you don't have the stock heat exchanger, you don't have that little extra bit of fluid in the system like most here do. That could also be one of your issues.
Just my thought on this
Iat1 is ambient outside temperature. It's before the supercharger packs all the air in the intake manifold
Iat2 is after te supercharger has forced all that air at the intake ports. It heats up a fair amount when doing a pull.
Your recovery should be 15 seconds of cruising to bring your iat2's down to about 20 or so degrees above iat1. Going from redlight to redlight doing pulls will only result in heat soak and very slow recovery.
I suggest you find a stretch of open highway and do a pull and cruise right after the pull and see how long it takes your iat2's to come down. They aren't going to drop fast or anything retarded like that, it will be a steady decline like 2 degrees every second or a little longer than a second.
Also, if you don't have the stock heat exchanger, you don't have that little extra bit of fluid in the system like most here do. That could also be one of your issues.
Just my thought on this
08-13-2013, 05:52 PM
#28
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
So you removed the stock HE and installed ZZP's stealth unit? You removed a lot of HE and didn't replace it with any extra. Simplified thought for HE, the plate surface area where heat is transfered, more surface area more heat transfer can occur, less surface area less heat transfer
08-13-2013, 06:47 PM
#29
If this has been said I will say it again. You need to bleed out of that front mount and there is no fitting to do that so you are pretty much screwed. You cant run the bleed the way you have it wont work and you have found that.
Coolant likes nice shallow curves and gently sloping lines. A bushel basket of T fittings is just horrible sad to say, and costs a fortune in hose clamps.
so. buy a temro Y connector for the reservoir, rescue some curved hoses that came with your aftercooler to begin with so you can build a nice union for the dual outlets using only one T, and weld a 1/8 npt bung in the top tank of that front mount for the bleed line. Thats if you wish to keep it ( I would not, if you asked me) But ZZP produced what the market wanted, a cheap large fmic.
You bought it.
Coolant likes nice shallow curves and gently sloping lines. A bushel basket of T fittings is just horrible sad to say, and costs a fortune in hose clamps.
so. buy a temro Y connector for the reservoir, rescue some curved hoses that came with your aftercooler to begin with so you can build a nice union for the dual outlets using only one T, and weld a 1/8 npt bung in the top tank of that front mount for the bleed line. Thats if you wish to keep it ( I would not, if you asked me) But ZZP produced what the market wanted, a cheap large fmic.
You bought it.
08-13-2013, 11:26 PM
#30
If this has been said I will say it again. You need to bleed out of that front mount and there is no fitting to do that so you are pretty much screwed. You cant run the bleed the way you have it wont work and you have found that.
Coolant likes nice shallow curves and gently sloping lines. A bushel basket of T fittings is just horrible sad to say, and costs a fortune in hose clamps.
so. buy a temro Y connector for the reservoir, rescue some curved hoses that came with your aftercooler to begin with so you can build a nice union for the dual outlets using only one T, and weld a 1/8 npt bung in the top tank of that front mount for the bleed line. Thats if you wish to keep it ( I would not, if you asked me) But ZZP produced what the market wanted, a cheap large fmic.
You bought it.
Coolant likes nice shallow curves and gently sloping lines. A bushel basket of T fittings is just horrible sad to say, and costs a fortune in hose clamps.
so. buy a temro Y connector for the reservoir, rescue some curved hoses that came with your aftercooler to begin with so you can build a nice union for the dual outlets using only one T, and weld a 1/8 npt bung in the top tank of that front mount for the bleed line. Thats if you wish to keep it ( I would not, if you asked me) But ZZP produced what the market wanted, a cheap large fmic.
You bought it.
I'm starting to think that with this set-up that the Bosch doesn't have enough guts to flow fast enough through the Laminova's.
After some more driving, cruising IAT2's are about 14-19* or IAT1. The system did take in some more fluid from the Opt B. as it dropped about 1/2 an inch. Hopefully just more and more cruising will help it out.
I'll update when things change. THANKS!
08-14-2013, 12:55 AM
#31
Aright... did some better paying attention to stuff. A note to make is I still run Dexcool.
So is it normal for with the cooling mods: Dual Pass, Phenolic, Opt B., and FMHE
Cruising IAT2's are about 16-22* of IAT1
WOT Pull from 2nd to top of third gear hits about 115-125*
^
Recovers down to about 30* above IAT1 within 20seconds. Then takes about 2-3 solid minutes to get back down to within 20* of IAT1?
Idling is about 40* above IAT1 if I sit for than 30seconds. Recovers down pretty quick once moving.
Everything there seem normal for the mods? Considering the 2.7 pulley make a **** **** of heat LOLZ
Cruising....
So is it normal for with the cooling mods: Dual Pass, Phenolic, Opt B., and FMHE
Cruising IAT2's are about 16-22* of IAT1
WOT Pull from 2nd to top of third gear hits about 115-125*
^
Recovers down to about 30* above IAT1 within 20seconds. Then takes about 2-3 solid minutes to get back down to within 20* of IAT1?
Idling is about 40* above IAT1 if I sit for than 30seconds. Recovers down pretty quick once moving.
Everything there seem normal for the mods? Considering the 2.7 pulley make a **** **** of heat LOLZ
Cruising....
Last edited by bratboy90; 08-14-2013 at 12:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
08-14-2013, 07:16 AM
#33
So I did the little trick of holding the Opt. B. tank above the motor... Didn't seem to do anything with motor on or off.
Rerouted the opt. B. black hose the way John has his. Shortened the length of the clear hose. Changed the T of the Opt. B black hose going to out of the so that the opt. B is vertical rather than horizontal if that matters.
Ran out and did two pulls. It's weird my pulls are ******* great. I went from 4k 2nd gear to bouncing limiter in 4th gear and a little bit into 5th and the car only saw 143*
A second pull doing the same confirmed this.
However.... again the recovery seems kinda slow and only gets down to about 100* IAT2's with IAT1's sitting at 76*
Now I suppose performance mods may matter:
E85, 80's, 2.7 M62, ZZP 3in Intake, Pacesetter Header, Full 3in Header back. That's about all that should matter. I see about 16.5psi on this set-up.
Rerouted the opt. B. black hose the way John has his. Shortened the length of the clear hose. Changed the T of the Opt. B black hose going to out of the so that the opt. B is vertical rather than horizontal if that matters.
Ran out and did two pulls. It's weird my pulls are ******* great. I went from 4k 2nd gear to bouncing limiter in 4th gear and a little bit into 5th and the car only saw 143*
A second pull doing the same confirmed this.
However.... again the recovery seems kinda slow and only gets down to about 100* IAT2's with IAT1's sitting at 76*
Now I suppose performance mods may matter:
E85, 80's, 2.7 M62, ZZP 3in Intake, Pacesetter Header, Full 3in Header back. That's about all that should matter. I see about 16.5psi on this set-up.
The stealth replaces the stock heat exchanger.
08-16-2013, 03:19 PM
#34
Good to know that I'm about normal. I think the few times I lifted the Opt B tank above the engine it burped a few times and helped a ton.
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