felt a little discourage when i seen all the help threads in the lsj tech section but im gonna post this and see where it gets me esp after searching for anything related to the lsj throw out and gettin nothing

I have a 2006 ss/sc with roughly 60K miles on it. Long story short i abused the clutch racing and driving, it finally went out about 3 weeks ago..so im replacing it..Well i did replace it.

I purchased the gm clutch upgrade kit from CED and replaced pretty much the flywheel and its bolts, clutch itself, pressure plate and its bolts, throw out bearing and clutch pipe.

Im following the gm build book instructions of how to do it
i had the entire car all ready to go everything torqued down after installing the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and clutch line (I DID NOT TOUCH THE THROW OUT AT THIS TIME) and when i went to vacuum bleed the clutch/resovoir the vacuum would not hold on my resevoir so i attempted to manually/traditionally bleed the clutch by pumping it while i have clear tubing coming off the clutch bleeder into a small tank holding brake fluid (like you would in a one man brake bleed)

As i bled the line i started to notice brake fluid coming from the seam where the clutch bell housing and engine meet and was under the assumption that the new clutch line i had installed maybe was not tight enough or had a problem. So i took off the bell housing (2nd time) and figured since i had the car apart again i might as well replace the throw out. So i replaced it the throw out tightened the bolts down, attached the clutch line to it and tightened it down and put the bell housing back on and attempted to bleed again. Car is currently having the same problem still, When i attempt to vacuum bleed it holds maybe 5 hg for a minute or less, or wutever the gauge reads, when it should be 15-20hg for 10 mins. After this didnt work the 2nd time i tried the one man bleed (manual bleed) from the clutch bleeder screw again and it starts to drip from engine/bellhousing seam.

Im getting tired of pulling **** apart and putting it back together just because the throw out dont hold pressure and is unaccessible from the outside, but after all these brand new parts that i have installed, per manual and torqued to spec. Im feeling this is rediculous

I know it cant be driven, or started for that manner, unless the clutch has decent and holding pressure. And i have read somewhere here on the forums that the clutch line is notorious for having leaking problems soooo...

Anyone have any suggestions or possible tricks to solve this? Any help would be appreciated. And i have tried to search this on here and elsewhere but its not exactly a well talked about subject. Thanks

 

Is it brake fluid or oil that's seeping out? When I had my clutch replaced the shop didn't do the rear main seal, and oil started seeping out between the bellhousing and the engine.

Alternately, you could just have a bad TOB.

 

make sure the seal on the nipple (on the trans) for the line coming from the master cylinder is SNAPPED on. it fits in a groove on there, and if it's just sitting on top.. it will leak and drip down into the bell housing

 

If you cant hold vacuum then there is a leak,At the resivior cap or the lines you have to find it.

Important: Ensure that the clutch line locks securely in place.

Improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
Remove the reservoir cap.
Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.

Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.

Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
Add additional fluid if needed.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

 

Yes im almost 100% its brake fluid, its semi clear and smells like brake fluid and only drips when i try to bleed the clutch.

Im pretty sure it snapped in when i pressed it on i heard a distinctive click and just to make sure it was on i gave it a light tug to make sure i cant just lift it back off. So im pretty sure its on there, i will have to check again.

Thats pretty much the procedure im following but it doesnt hold a 15-20 vacuum its only about 5 and i have to keep pumping it up for it to stay at 5.

 

The seal i'm referring to is a separate piece from the actual line. The line snaps on top of it and seals against it.. When i took mine apart the seal came off with the line and was up in the cup part of it. We assumed it was supposed to be that way until we couldn't get the clutch to hold pressure..

 

i have the same prroblem it leakes brake fluid right around the tranny. i think mu clutch cord is bad/ and clutch pedel is real soft no resistance

 

ooo ****...ur talking about that little black o-ring thing, well it almost looks like a o-ring, it looks more like a small earbud cover lol
Yeah when i took off the old clutch line i didnt look till later 2 find out it didnt have it on it then i put the new clutch line in and last night found out that (guess i overlooked or broke it installing) some of the black plastic cone below the seal had broken off. So i put the old 1 back in with the o-ring/seal from the new one and tried to bleed it again. It got pressure but then i heard this pop once i almost had full pressure and then it started leaking brake fluid again. Then again i think i mighta messed some **** up by trying to pressure bleed it with a buddy and using that clutch bleeder nut this time instead of a vacuum. Well **** another disassemble for me but at least i know another thing 2 check that i havent b4
THANK YOU.

Yeah that sounds exactly like mine. Might wanna check your clutch line and check it over and over and over lol

 

Well after checking again i found out i had two of the black cup/ear bud gromet looking sealers in the bleeder on top the tranny so i took the old one out (has 1 not 2 now) and tried again to bleed it but still leaks from the same spot.

Found out the new throw out is prob bad. Either i fucked it up or idk..Waiting for parts, on a side note i took off the pressure plate to check the clutch disk and it was half way covered in brake fluid. I know its organic material so should i even try to run the new clutch now?

I tried lettin it sit in 80ish degree weather/sun and ran a torch across it afew times to see what it would do, it did dry it up a bit and some of the brake fluid looks like it bubbled and vaporized at the surface. Trying to just let it sit at the moment in the sun when it can.

Thanks for the (checking for the black cup) idea lol =)

 

My brand new disk got soaked in brake fluid when mine actted up and it seems to have survived okay..lol..

Good Luck finding the issue!

 

where is the connection at can i see a picture where the clutch pip connects to the tranny if possible becuase i cann't find it i just see the leak

 

Well if u had two rubber seals in there u blew out the throw out bearing so that will fix the issue when u put a new one in

 

are you sure the clutch pipe isn't leaking?

 

This exactly was the problem and i blew out the brand new throw out bearing because of the 2 seals in there..but no worries got a new clutch pipe, throw out but just havent had the time to work on it and fix the lil bugger. Will post what happens l8r

Double check your clutch pipe, make sure its snug (but not too snug) on the throw out (Dont do the Thor God of thunder heave on it like im known for doing sometimes) and then when you click the top in place give it a light tug if it still leaks refer to my previous posts...I dont know about you but ive dropped and reset the tranny bellhouseing 8 times so far trying to figure this crap out but with new parts (Again) and some great advice (Thanks Everyone) im optimistic again.

 

ok so im back...car is still in the air throw out number #2 is on and tranny installed but i for the life of me cannot find the part number for the cap that they use in the gm build book to vacuum bleed the clutch/brake resv. This has been another one of my probs i cant get more than 5 hg vacuum because im using a stock resv cap that doesnt hold a vac.

I have searched hi and low, doing some more searhing now, nobody has, knows of, or sells that damn cap that is shown in the GM Build Book. Anybody know where i can get one?

Ive already tried 4 chevy dealers in my area (dont know wut im talking about or wont sell me a tool), all the kragen/oreillys near me, autozone, pepboys, napa, and 2 other mom and pop auto stores, tried a friend that works at a ford dealer that has some master catalog for parts and found me this ford part number

J43485

Almost all ford dealers are closed near me, cept 2, tried them and they dont even have this number in their systems. I gotta get this sumbitch goin its drivin me nuts, if i had the money id take it to a dealer at this point but i just need the vacuum bleed on the brake/clutch resv not a complete clutch install and so...Any help is very much appreciated, im almost considering puttin this info up as a sticky or attach it 2 one cuz of the length of searching involved...ill keep looking in the mean time.

 

The J number is a Kent-Moore tool part number.

http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moo...r_p_17726.html

That was the first Google search. Google the J number and lots of places should have it for sale. I've seen really good deals on used Kent-Moore tools on eBay as well.

Try this thread as well for more info..

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/problems-service-maintenance-69/bleeding-ss-sc-clutch-28120/

Good luck!

 

Is the fitting that the bleeder screws into suppose to be able to rotate or does it snap firmly in place?

 

I think the clutch fluid distribution block is not seated properly on the bell housing. you have to make sure u push it down pretty hard before snapping the clip on. It's pretty easy to mess up. Did you see any fluid on the top of the bell housing? Also make sure that white plastic retainer clip that holds the clutch pipe is still seated properly in the bell housing.

 

I tried pushing it down more but wouldn't go, I'm not losing fluid there but I am losing fluid somewhere, and clutch won't disengage

 

How do I check that clip can I just pull that block out without messing anything up?

 

not really sure, but i know its a b!tch to remove the old pipe and install the new one due to that stupid clip. I could see something going wrong there. just make sure its in there nice and tight.

 

The transmission has to be pulled in order to change pipe right?

 

Pull the line out of the distribution block and pull the block off. Make sure the top of the clutch pipe is snapped into the bell housing and isn't allowed to be pushed down. Also, make sure the little black rubber piece is on the top of that. With all that tight and in place put the clip into the distribution block and snap in down into place firmly. Might have to wiggle it to get it to line up right, but make sure once its snapped in it doesn't rotate freely anymore. Hook up the line going to it and bleed your clutch.

 

Would that being loose cause it to make clutch not disengage?

 

yes because you are losing the fluid pressure required to extend the slave cylinder.