Advice and Comments Welcome

Except for a few who obviously knew what they were talking about.....we were way off on the poll:



Ambient temp was around mid 50's and the humidity was high that day (64% according to the dyno).

Reason I posted in the performance section is because this is an open thread. Feel free to give any input and advice based on what you can see in the dyno graph and the following:

1>I'm commanding 11.5/11.6 AFR, as you see from the graph, I'm actually getting closer to 12.0/11.9 most of the powerband.

2>According to my back bumper I'm running rich. However, Area47 recommended tuning for 11.3 and tweaking from there. Also a book the dyno had did say that our FI cars ideal AFR was in the 11's (they said 11.9).

3>I'm running 42# injectors that are over duty cycle, looking to switch to 60#'s. And while I'm at it I'm going to switch to a 2.8, step colder plugs, and a h/e.

Again, feel free to give your advice and comments.

 

Looks like you are heading towards the right step. 60lbers will do you well, the 2.8 is the lowest pulley size I would run on the m62 and the h/e will keep down those iat2's. Have you thought about methanol/water injection? Who will be doing your tuning?

 

yeah, def need cooling and those 60lbers will help too

 

Damn you got a crazy arch...

You need to tweak the heck out of that tune. With a 2.9 you shouldn't be dropping so fast on the high end.

 

Yes, i've thought about meth injection...that will be after I get this thing running right with a good power-adder and air-cooling setup. Also, regarding the 2.8. I've already found out that one myth has been broken. Some people claim you can run the 42#'s with a 2.9.....um, no you can't. I'm over IDC. So what is the real limit of the m62? Should I stick with the 2.9, or is the 2.8 going to overspin it?

yeah, h/e is on the christmas list...lol.

Please Explain. What needs to be done during the tune.

Oh and for you and Zach. BriantheLion26 did my tune. But I don't have a wideband so he just gave me a basic tune by temporarily hooking up his and we weren't on a dyno either. He did the best he could with what he had.

But this dyno place we found is cheap and I will be tuning on a dyno next time.

Which by the way. Here's a little plug for them. Their address and number is on the sheet. They only want to make payments on the thing, not get rich off it:

$65 for 3 pulls!!!
$85/hr if you tune it yourself/bring your own tuner

 

Just looked at the graph. Your injectors are going static causing you to lose power in the higher rpms. What you need to do is to grab 60lbers and tune for 11.3-11.5 afr in my opinion. Others will tell you higher, but I believe that in the low to mid 11s is a very safe and conservative afr gaining nice power.

I run between 11.3 and 11.5 depending on my methanol mix. Currently putting down 280whp and over 250tq without nitrous.

I wouldn't use any pulley smaller than the 2.8 because you will be putting the blower out of it's efficiency range and just causing more heat than you want to deal with.

I have been saying for an extremely long time now that you should NOT run a 2.9inch pulley with 42lbers.

The heat that the 2.7, 2.6, 2.5inch pulleys cause is just redicolous and spins the blower to fast and to hard. Stay with the 2.8inch pulley and 60lbers, with a good tune putting you around 11.3 to 11.7 afr and you will be fine bro.

 

thanks a ton. I knew there was something i was missing. I suspected it was the injectors being over duty cycle, but wasn't sure how drastic changing to 60's would be. But now I know that it's causing a "mechanical failure" of sorts running the 42#'s. And, yes, Area47, the God of Cobalt Tuning, recommended 11.3.

what about the plugs? Should those be 1 or 2 step colder?

Awesome. Now I'm making progress.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. This site has everything and everyone you need to get the Chevrolet cobalt running to it's fullest potential. Love this site

 

depends on your future mods but I personally would stick to 1 step colder ngk's. That's what I have been using for a long time and they work great. Hell I am going to use them while I run my 50shot this weekend too and I don't believe I will have any issues.

And yes, bryan is right that 11.3afr is a very good afr to have these cars at, from my experience at least. He has much much more experience than I do, and is a far better tuner than I am so if we are both saying that 11.3 and slightly higher is good, I would believe it =D.

Also, being under 11.3 isn't the worst thing in the world, it just means you are running a little bit on the rich side. The gm stage 2 tunes run extremely rich, I am talking like low 10s or even in the 9s. I have seen some retarded stage 2 tunes that were stock, running in the high 9s and low 10s for afr.

RoadRage06 - I am glad I could help man. That's what this forum is here for. We are a community that helps each other out in times of need =D. If there's anything else that you want to know or ever have any questions you can always pm me personally. I usually check them once a day give or take so I will reply asap.

 

Alright. Appreciate it. Man, now it's a just a waiting game to purchase the stuff. This sucks....lol. Now I know what I need to do and I want to run out ot my car right now, slap some 60's on their, change the plugs, and hop on the dyno. But money and time won't allow for that obviously.

Oh, and which vendor can you get NGK's from?

Thanks again

 

nice, i did that stock hahah.

but like everyone else is saying, get those 60#ers and a nice custom tune and you will see a pretty nice increase

 

haha, yeah, i'm humble enough to realize i won't be sitting at 280-300 horsepower to the actuall wheels. But I was definitely expecting more than 30 horses over stock....lol. There was a stock one there that put out 200. I was like, man, all that work for 30hp. I know the 2.9 is capable of more than that.

 

well, thats the stage2 tune for ya hahah

 

yeah, i'm gonna use what i've learned on here today and i'm gonna have this thing a beast by spring.

 

that was me! was it me or was the weather not really that great for dynoing? i thought the air would be thinner/cooler than what it was. yea man, definately get BriantheLion26 over there to that dyno and get him to "dyno tune" you, you'll definately see an increase. i'm still shocked of how rich i was and i'm stock! freaking mid-low 10s on the AFR

 

yeah, it sucked. according to the dyno it was 64% humidity. I could feel it hanging on me when I stepped out the door in the morning.

But, hey, check out some of the info in this thread. it's some good educational stuff. Helped me out a ton.

 

Graph looks dead on to me?? I dont see a big drop in power on the top end, looks smooth with a very slight drop in power from its peak, but thats normal, looks exactly like most ss/sc dyno's I have seen

 

yea, i honestly feel you would of gotten a little bit better numbers if the weather wasn't has humid.... and they need a fan about 5x bigger

i've been reading this thread, so i gots the info. i already know what i'm going to be doing. i'll keep you informed on what numbers i put down in a few weeks

 

Every dyno is different, just becuase you may have dyno'd the same stock doesnt mean you would run the same on this particular dyno. Plus he has gone 13.9@106mph, garantee your stock balt can't pull that off for a time without mods

I seen a stage 2 balt in my city dyno 208whp on a low reading dyno, so every dyno is different, its how it runs on the street and track that matters, nothing shabby with a 106mph trap

 

very true. I definitely did keep reminding myself of the cars I've beaten. All that means is that on that particular dyno those cars wouldn't run nearly as much as they thought either. But definitely has room for improvement.

oh, wow, you're planning on re-modding in the next few weeks? Definitely keep me posted, man.

 

Seems like a more realistic dyno your trap shows you have decent power

 

blah blah blah, i know every dyno is differen't. you think i'm stupid? and i never said i would beat him in the 1/4 mile. and i probably would run the same on that dyno if not better because when i dynoed..ON A DYNOJET, just like him. the air temp was 70*, not mid 50*

what all have you beaten?

me: modded '95 lt1 Z28 auto, heavily modded "97 LT1 TA auto, stock LS1 TA auto, LT4 C4 vette 6speed, ls1 C5 auto, '97 gt stang with lightning motor swap, and a couple other gt's. i'm not trying to brag. i'm just using those as a reference, since you kinda brought them up, to show quicksilver it wasnt just a "high reading" dyno

 

I dont think 20 degrees gives you 30 or 40 hp?

 

uhm, when did i say it did?

 

and i probably would run the same on that dyno if not better because when i dynoed..ON A DYNOJET, just like him. the air temp was 70*, not mid 50

unless you meant it different, i got that you said ud run the same as him but didnt because the ambient air * was higher.

 

no, i said i DID run the same as him even WITH my dyno being at a higher air temp. i'm saying if i went to the exact same dyno as he did under the exact same air conditions he did, even though we've both already dynoed on dynojets, i would put out the same as i did before, 231/209, if anything it would be2-3 higher than what i already did given that i'ld be running in 20* cooler air.