BoostedEco

Shanghai Todd hit the nail on the head. I actually found the same info as him and then went and inspected motors with pans off. 2006-2007 are both FORGED STEEL Rods and will handle 330 whp all day easily. 2008+ is where you're hurting.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Not much of update over this weekend, dropped off the block and other parts to be hot tanked at the machine shop and got the head broken down. After 30min and no success with my valve spring compressor I decided to make my own (see below). Searched other forums and surprised no one has engineered something as simple as this as opposed to the $150 and higher options that are out there.

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

Nice Korean pest control in the background!

Tjolley

Nice home made tool.
I payed 50$ shipped for my gm tool a few years ago.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Got the block and other parts back from the machine shop and will begin lapping the valves tomorrow.

Trevor, you will be happy to know I snatched up a pair of ZZP rods, JE pistons and Supertech 78lbs valve springs from the classifieds and no longer need to worry about melting the bottom end

The pistons are 9:1 so what are your thoughts on compression and injector size? I was thinking #50~60 injectors with a 2.8 pulley? Any reason to go to a thicker head gasket or will the standard thickness be OK?

Funny how I have gone from a budget build to ***** out within a week..

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Guys, I have read in 2 different ecotec publications on piston swaps where they both re-used the rings?? The 2,4L motor I got only had around 50K miles and was from an automatic Mailbu so I am pretty confident that the motor did not see any high rev's and was well taken care of.

If I could re-use this would save me a sit ton of time.

How many have done this and any issues?

Tjolley

Looks good.

I would stick a oem le5 head gasket on it. GET ARP HEAD STUDS.
I saw a new set in the classified a little while ago.

I have a friend with a le5 we just supercharged and he's running a 2.9 with 42# injectors.

I think 60s would be a better choice leaves room for improvement.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

I doubt those rings will fit your j.e. pistons they generaly use a thinner ring then stock and what are you going to do about piston to wall clearances

Tjolley

Call up total seal and get a new set of rings u don't want to halfass it now.

Tjolley

^^^^^
Forged piston in a worn bore isnt a good thing..

And if those pistons r from zzp they r made 0.002 larger than normal pistons. Might get them measured.

Tjolley

Reluctor shipped out today. U should see it by Friday.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Update: Had to replace 1 bent valve but got the head finished up tonight with the new 78lbs Supertech valve springs. My homemade compressor to remove the old springs was not very successful for installing and did not leave much room for putting the keepers in so I ordered a Kent Moore OHV/OHC compressor. Great tool and worked flawless.

Rings and reluctor wheel should arrive next week to start the bottom end. For ring gap and per JE 2618 pistons they are recommending .017 for the top ring and .019 on the second ring for moderate turbo or blown engines. Seems kinda tight and recall my LS2 was in the range of .022~.025

Does .017 and .019 sound in the ballpark for what works good with the Ecotec's?

Tjolley

Ya. 017 sounds right.
Im running a very very tight. 005 ring gap in my current 2.0 engine.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

What tool you using to GAP? I got an old school manual style with colored shims, takes some time to get use to but does the job nicely. I will share pictures when I start. My plan is to do 1 piston each night next week and be done by the weekend to put the rest of the motor together.

Tjolley

I use a high precision thickness gauge and a straight edge to square the ring at the top of the bore and a ring file.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

1 inch in not at the top

Tjolley

Oh ya duh forgot that minor step..lol
Definitely need to make sure ur not at the top.

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to Tjolley I got my re-clocked reluctor wheel back today and was able to assemble the lower block. Reluctor wheel looks great, Tjolley is da man..

The torquing of girdle bolts and 70 + 20 degree turns took some time and patience and in the morning I will peal off the RTV from the edges.

Started to port the intake manifold by grinding down the flashes in the aluminum but my Dremel bits got worn down to a point they became ineffective so looks like I will be making a trip to the Depot tomorrow.. Still debating if I want to open the S/C port and block the silencers. Not sure I am convinced of the benefits from my reading.

Regarding the pulley removal what a PITA.. Can not get that ****** off for nothing. Tried gear puller and heat and not happening.. Guess I will need to look for a local shop.

Tjolley

Looks good man..

Tjolley

Oh ya don't use rtv get the stuff from gm the part number is around here some where

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

I have some honabond and tube of the Right Stuff which I am sure will suffice. I have used on several builds and never had a leak.

Came across this flywheel which says it will work on the l200 which if I'm not mistaken had a f35 trans. Would have to take some measurements but looks like it could work or be pursueded to work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-04-05-06-07-SATURN-VUE-FLYWHEEL-FLEX-PLATE/121077784514?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D6831192280410798733%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D121077784514%26

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Some old school ring gapping for ya. Got the top rings done tonight and plan for the #2's tomorrow.

N1ckateen

iTrader: (1)

damn lol.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

that's not old school

old school Is using a fine cut flat file

what did you set the end gap at

shanghai_todd

iTrader: (2)

Tops are @ .0175'ish and tomorrow the 2nd ring will be around .0195