When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finding a place under the hood for everything will be one kind of fun or another for sure as the plan is to not alter the stock hood at all. I'll be a semi qualified pro at doing the install by the time I mock it up in the car, tear it all down and do it all over when the engine is built.
Originally Posted by 96S1
Dude awesome ! ! !
That blower is bad freakin' ass man, I simply cannot wait to see and hear it on your car. Beast will be an understatement.
Check this crazy ass setup, this dude decided he needed 2 of those ! ! ! ...
I'm really looking forward to this kit to be on the car with everything running smoothly. Well smoothly except for the cam & blower. The sound is going to be soo absolutely freaking awesome.
As crazy as one person is there is always someone just that much crazier. All he needs now are the wings.
Originally Posted by ECaulk
Nice shiny go fast parts.
And some of them are likely to get shinier as I am thinking of doing the charge piping in victory red.
I am astonished that this thread is still happening!?
I haven't poped in too much in the last several years, but seem to recall that this thread started before I joined!
Good for you VR for not giving up!
Thanks.
I am kind of amazed and happy that this thread never got shut down considering how long ago this all started.
As for keeping it all going, it just has to be finished so that all of the grief, disappointment and pain wasn't for nothing. Getting this on the track will erase the bad memories and replace them with a huge smile. I can hardly wait.
I have some more parts for the project to share and I am getting to the point where there are less products on the 'still need list' compared to the "I already have list'.
The first pictures I want to share are some of the hottest 'cool' expensive shinny parts. These are the brand spanking new BRODIX BP BR 7BS 300 assembled cylinder heads. These LS7 heads are a huge step up over the DART heads I originally started out because of Resnick. The only upside to finally buying these particular heads now is that they didn't exist way back when I was dealing with Resnick. These heads are the best flowing heads BRODIX makes. In fact I have not seen any others that match these right out of the box. The following technical description is copied directly from BRODIX's website (Can you tell yet how stoked I am about the cylinder heads?): BRODIXŽ introduces the new billet BR 7 BS 300-B cylinder head. This all new billet LS compatible cylinder head is the ultimate in performance and durability for blower/turbo applications. This head accepts all the same components as its cast counterpart and comes standard with all copper valve seats. BP BR 7 BS 300
New 300 cc Intake Flows Over 437 cfm
High Flowing Exhaust for Turbo/Blower Use The heads have been bored out to use 1/2" head studs (ARP of course) and they also utilize 6 bolts/cylinder that the LSX block is designed for. On to the pictures.
BRODIX name engraving BRODIX exhaust side BRODIX intake side BRODIX combustion chambers BRODIX side shot just because racecar!
Ooops, those are really big, good thing 56kb download speed is a thing of the past.
The next pictures are not as exciting as the BRODIX parts but important parts they are just the same.
I have the matching Magna Fuel dual port fuel regulator for my MagnaFuel ProStar EFI 750 Fuel Pump. After that is my Vortech Maxflow BV57 Bypass Valve. Without having side by side pictures (I don't) it's misleading just how much larger this is compared to the first bypass valve that came with my S/C kit. Thanks Vortech for making this right.
The last picture is something that cost me an out of this world price, my ultra high tech gas pedal. When this project first stared going rwd I tried to keep everything as stock as possible which included trying to use the factory pedals. After way to many hours and $$$$$ were spent to no avail the stock pedal Idea was scuttled. This simple solution is nothing more than a spring loaded pedal and a cable connected to a throttle body.
MagnaFuel 2 port fuel regulatorVortech Maxflow BV56 Bypass ValveVortech Maxflow BV56 Bypass ValveHi Tech Gas Pedal/cable
I have a build thread on Digital Corvettes forum in their "other" section and I posted some long overdue updates there. One of those updates included the many parts that I have been accumulating for the project. One of the people who checked out my thread knows his stuff and has a good eye as he pointed out that the water pump and the alternator did not bolt up to an LS engine. I contacted JEGS to inquire about the parts and the fact that I specifically talked to a technician so the correct parts were ordered and shipped. Turns out mister eagle eye Corvette owner was right. JEGS paid for return shipping and now I have the correct parts including a new billet water pump pulley.
Corvette style LS racing water pump. Corvette style LS racing water pump with billet pulley The correct 160 amp LS alternator
I was at the powder coaters today to pick up my charge piping and Wilson LS7 intake manifold. I had these parts powder coated red as I am doing a red/black color scheme inside/outside/under hood/underneath my whole car. The color isn't victory red but it's likely that most people won't notice as there are better things to stare at underneath the hood. I'm looking forward to having these parts installed soon for the mock-up.
Wilson LS7 Intake Manifold powder coated redVortech S/C Kit charge piping powder coated red
Damn that's a good eye to catch that for you. Good to hear jegs fixed it.
Originally Posted by 63 Nova SS
Glad you got the right parts.
The Vette guy has a great eye and Jegs has great customer service. I'm happy about both.
Originally Posted by 63 Nova SS
Those turned out nice.
Originally Posted by ECaulk
That red seems pretty close to victory red, as long as it's not to close to the exterior paint most wont notice.
The powder coaters did a good job and this will give the engine bay a welcome character look. Most people are going to be looking at the V8 and supercharger and not focusing on the slight color difference. I now have to decide what to do with the block as the orange doesn't really flow with my color scheme. The supercharger bracket and the heads will likely be the only shiny aluminum parts.
I'd say go with either black or no paint on the block.
I am leaning towards the block being black because taking the stock GM orange paint off is more time consuming than painting the block black.
As of now my valve covers, supercharger bracket and my Brodix heads are mostly polished aluminum. My other engine parts are a natural finish as I'm not looking for blinding chrome shine under the hood mostly because I'm cheap and I like go fast over bling. I will see how it all looks together once I have done the mock up. If I need to add color else where the powder coaters are reasonably priced
Black is the best pigment for heat dissipation :-)
You are correct that with our newer technology regarding pigments that black can in fact help the surface stay cooler and that is of great importance in a project like this.
Looking forward to seeing all the parts come together....Keep up the great work
Thanks, I'll keep posting as I move forward. I am hoping to get the time to do a mock up in the next week or two which is exciting for me.
I am also trying to get my niece's husband (between moving/getting married I may need to find another welder) to weld in my funny car cage bars (the ones by my head) so that I can get a NHRA inspector to sign off on the complete cage. Once that happens I can work on putting the interior back in place,
I am hoping my mock-up motor, from the engine builder, happens this weekend so I can get a layout of everything in the engine bay. Once I have everything setup pictures will follow.
The engine builder dyno'ed an engine similar to mine last week and they got 560 bhp NA on a carburetor.
Last edited by victory_red_SS; 09-27-2018 at 05:17 PM.
I have been talking with a family member who is a welder as I need the funny car conversion bars added to my roll cage. I bought the bars and I was hoping that I could get the job done so I could start putting back some of the interior. Too bad I'm not a welder because then I would have known the issue with adding these bars boils down to a simple problem, my roof is in the way. This is an obvious issue to people who do this sort of work for a living. I am told that I have two choices.
The first choice is to cut the cage in many places to allow it to be removed, taken out, welded, put back in the car and re-weld. I am seeing where there are no less than eight bars that would need to be cut to remove the upper part of the cage.
The second choice is to have the roof removed, weld in the bars and replace the roof. I do have the GM manuals for the car and I can read up on how to remove the roof but I am going to guess that that isn't a simple process.
For you guys out there that have the skills to perform either option please give me some advice as to which option is preferred over the other and why?
I know you are a body and paint guy but I would not cut the roof off. Can't they cut the bars and weld them in? Do they have to be 1 piece of can they be in 2 pieces?
I know you are a body and paint guy but I would not cut the roof off. Can't they cut the bars and weld them in? Do they have to be 1 piece of can they be in 2 pieces?
I'm a paint guy and my body work experience is limited. As for cutting the cage I would need cut the cage on 8 separate bars to pull it out so it can be worked on and then re-install it. As of right now there is no glass in the car and the roof is one complete piece but beyond that I need the expertise of others.
To go with cutting out the cage option once the bars are cut and then re-installed/welded I can grind everything down to make them look like one solid piece again.
Think about the 1 or 2 piece question I'm going to go to the NHRA manual and see exactly their position is on adding the bars.
Cutting out a roof isn't hard. Especially with the glass being out already.
You can get it out easily without damaging it at all. We often use recycled roofs at work that we cut away from the old roof rails.
The cars already been cut up so it's not like you're doing anything more invasive than you already have.
I'm not entirely sure of the procedure for the Cobalt but almost every vehicle I've seen the sheet metal roof sits on top of the sheet metal for the rails so removal is easy.
I downloaded a copy of NHRA rules and it looks like this isn't going to be the issue I previously thought it was. The rules allow for my roll cage to have gussets welded into the cage to make up for the incomplete welds at the roof area only. I will call on Monday to confirm this rule applies to my car.
I had over my brother's stepson over today to look at welding in the funny car roll cage bars so that I can get the car certified for 7.5 seconds. The visit didn't goes as expected but what then what has gone as planned?
The bars that I got are all longer than they need to be so that this kit can be used in any car that is trying to get a lower certification. The problem is all of the fabricating that needs to be done before welding can even start. While the welding isn't an issue he isn't a fabricator and he was honest enough not to just start cutting things up. Because my cage was built long before there was a floor the lower cross support is actually my chassis tube. That means cutting into the floor, welding in the bars and replacing the floor. That now means shipping the car to a fabrication shop where the fabricating and welding can all be done in one place. That's where my dilemma starts.
I have had no success giving my project over to a shop. Nothing was ever done in a timely fashion or in a cost effective manner. I am far too trusting and for one reason or another that translates to 'ATM machine'. I hate paying to have a none driver car get to shop and I have no control over how much time actually gets used to get the job done. I was asked today what the cage is currently good for which is 8.5 seconds. That is still plenty fast right?? So my question, do I just settle for 8.5 and throw the funny car cage bars in the pile of other useless crap I have hanging around from all the changes this project as gone through or do I take who knows how much money from other parts of the project to hit the 7.5 second mark??
I know no one but I can make the decision but input is still appreciated.
08-02-2018, 10:23 PM
...
